Is my Thermostat good?

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So, I noticed that my 2011 Focus doesn't make heat very quickly in the winter. It's done it since new and a Ford dealer diag'd it as having a good thermostat and that it was normal for them to take a while making heat.

My current commute TO work, I pretty much coast the first mile, put along at 30 for the second mile, then the other 7 miles are highway at 45, then 55, then 65. On the colder mornings, it's not until I get almost to work that I have heat.

Unless I block the grille completely, the car doesn't get above 88C (thermostat is around 85C). Hottest day in the summer with the A/C on, the car doesn't go above 88C.

Driving at slow speeds with the engine completely cold, ambient temperature of 12, I drove it normally (which for me is very light) and the coolant wouldn't go above 77. I drove around for probably half an hour and the coolant was going between 70C and 77C.

I shut the car off and touched the radiator. Stone cold. I removed the rad cap and the coolant was also extremely cold. This would mean that the coolant didn't start circulating, right]/b].

I drove home, hopped on the interstate and went 65 and the car got up to 85C but as soon as I got off, it colled right back down. I shut it off and checked the radiator and it felt a little warmer than ambient and the coolant was somewhat warm too.

Popped the hood and let it sit for an hour off (temperature dropped to 9F) and did the same loop again, but instead I drove the car very hard ... not exceeding the speed limit. Driving it hard, the car heated up to 80F. I felt the radiator and it was a bit warmer than the first stop. Then I hopped on the highway, drove a bit faster, then drove hard (within the speed lmit) back to my apartment. The radiator was warm (didn't want to feel the coolant in case it was hot).

The fact that the radiator is staying cold would make one think that the thermostat is working?

I don't mind blocking off the grille, but my fear is forgetting and overheating it on a long highway trip in the winter
 
for such short distance, you should touch the engine block instead of the radiator to see if it has heat in it (remember: engine runs on coolant water jacket so the water jacket has to heat up sufficiently before the thermostat opens it up and starts circulating the coolant into the radiator.

If your block is warm to touch and yet your radiator is stone cold, then your thermostat is definitely working; if both your radiator and your engine block feels just about the same temp-wise, you prolly have a faulty thermostat.

Q.
 
Water circulation isn't diverted from the block and heater core until it is warm enough to open the thermostat. It has been said that AL blocks lose heat faster than iron, and may be HARDER to warm up in cold weather. In warm weather that is a good thing and means a smaller radiator can be installed. (they say) Our Toyota products warm up in about a mile and a half. You would think Ford would have it figured out by 2011.
 
Originally Posted By: HerrStig
Water circulation isn't diverted from the block and heater core until it is warm enough to open the thermostat. It has been said that AL blocks lose heat faster than iron, and may be HARDER to warm up in cold weather. In warm weather that is a good thing and means a smaller radiator can be installed. (they say) Our Toyota products warm up in about a mile and a half. You would think Ford would have it figured out by 2011.


If I drive it somewhat hard it'll warm ul quicker. Only if I drive lightly I will have no hratw
 
I think it's fine. Unfortunate, but functioning alright. I don't think I would expect heat any sooner out of our vehicles (our Ford van takes a long time, but it's a bigger system).


On really cold days (0F or more below) I can drop the engine temperature using the heater if I'm just idling or driving very slowly.
 
Something is wrong. Your car heater is behaving like the heater in the 1969 International Harvester Scout I had when I was young. While it was normal for a '69 Scout to only start heating after 7 miles, it is NOT normal for a modern car.

Modern car engines are designed to get up to temperature quickly. It provides for fuel efficient operation and effective control of emissions. I am amazed at how quickly a typical modern car heats up as compared to the cars of my youth.

Keep digging at the problem. I do not believe the dealer is giving you proper service. Try other mechanics if necessary. If the engine is coming up to temperature properly, perhaps it is a problem in the heater core. It could be a blockage in the coolant line to the heater, a kinked hose, an air bubble in the heater core, a defective valve. A good mechanic will be able to figure it out.
 
Originally Posted By: HerrStig
Water circulation isn't diverted from the block and heater core until it is warm enough to open the thermostat. It has been said that AL blocks lose heat faster than iron, and may be HARDER to warm up in cold weather. In warm weather that is a good thing and means a smaller radiator can be installed. (they say) Our Toyota products warm up in about a mile and a half. You would think Ford would have it figured out by 2011.
you have it backwards. Coolant is always going through the heater regardless of coolant temp . The stat only blocks flow to the radiator.
 
Honestly I have the same experience with any small engine car.
My Saturns were the same way, my Honda is the same way.
if it's cold outside, it takes a good while to get heat unless you're on the highway.
Just driving around town if the heat is blowing it may literally never hit full operating temp.. Idling, forget about it all together.
my GF had a 2008 Focus which is the same car and it was the same way, you had to drive it and drive it at some decent speeds for it to warm up even remotely fast.

At 12F I wouldn't worry that the car is not getting warmed up all the way unless you're on the highway.
 
Originally Posted By: Chris142
Originally Posted By: HerrStig
Water circulation isn't diverted from the block and heater core until it is warm enough to open the thermostat. It has been said that AL blocks lose heat faster than iron, and may be HARDER to warm up in cold weather. In warm weather that is a good thing and means a smaller radiator can be installed. (they say) Our Toyota products warm up in about a mile and a half. You would think Ford would have it figured out by 2011.
you have it backwards. Coolant is always going through the heater regardless of coolant temp . The stat only blocks flow to the radiator.


You guys are saying the same thing. (you're both correct)
 
why don't you get a new OEM thermostat and put it in? Yes, I understand dealer told you that the thermostat is good. So what? If your car is not warm after driving for four five miles, something is wrong.
 
If your thermostat is stuck open this is exactly the problem you'd be having.

It is a very cheap part and easy to install, I'd just do it.

I have never had a car that gave no heat after 5 miles!! (8km!!).
 
At about 35F ambient, my Focus (2005) is up to full temp within a mile of my starting point. In warmer weather it is up to full temp in a few blocks. That said, the heater is very weak on my vehicle. I can have it on full heat, high fan, and not get overly warm during my 25 mile commute.
 
Originally Posted By: HerrStig
Water circulation isn't diverted from the block and heater core until it is warm enough to open the thermostat. It has been said that AL blocks lose heat faster than iron, and may be HARDER to warm up in cold weather. In warm weather that is a good thing and means a smaller radiator can be installed. (they say) Our Toyota products warm up in about a mile and a half. You would think Ford would have it figured out by 2011.


+1 Toyotas get heat in 2-3 miles tops.
 
Originally Posted By: Miller88
Thermostats are expensive for this car, unfortunately. If I cant warranty it, I'm not replacing


I would go back and complain or call another dealer.
 
Originally Posted By: Rick in PA

Keep digging at the problem. I do not believe the dealer is giving you proper service. Try other mechanics if necessary. If the engine is coming up to temperature properly, perhaps it is a problem in the heater core. It could be a blockage in the coolant line to the heater, a kinked hose, an air bubble in the heater core, a defective valve. A good mechanic will be able to figure it out.


This. Sounds like the dealer doesn't feel like pulling it apart. The cooling system might just be a bit overkill causing the car to not warm up quick enough. I notice this on my Cherokee. I installed a larger 3 core radiator, and my temp never gets over 210* in the summer, but now my heat is so-so. It takes longer for the jeep to warm up due to the radiator being more efficient than the stock one.

Not sure how the focus is set up, but I know my Jeep has a blend door that blocks off the a/c when you switch the setting to heat. Maybe there is a problem in your dash somewhere.
 
Originally Posted By: Chris142
Originally Posted By: HerrStig
Water circulation isn't diverted from the block and heater core until it is warm enough to open the thermostat. It has been said that AL blocks lose heat faster than iron, and may be HARDER to warm up in cold weather. In warm weather that is a good thing and means a smaller radiator can be installed. (they say) Our Toyota products warm up in about a mile and a half. You would think Ford would have it figured out by 2011.
you have it backwards. Coolant is always going through the heater regardless of coolant temp . The stat only blocks flow to the radiator.
Coolant is ALWAYS going through the heater... even on a 90 degree day with the AC on?
Are you confusing a thermostatically controlled heater valve with the RADIATOR THERMOSTAT?
 
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