Is a cool sys flush necessary if -

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cos

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I drain and refill the rad on my '99 Ford Escort each year and have since it was new. I use the standard formula green Peak mixed with distilled water (50/50). The cooling system capacity is 5.3 qts and a rad drain removes 4 qts. I also drain, clean and refill the overflow container every 3 yrs. Is there any need to flush the system?
 
at least the older Mercedes cars (which have used orange 'modern' coolant for a long time have reccomended doing citric acid flushes every change. I get this task done at the dealer.

My 83 300d still has its original radiator, after 228k miles!

JMH
 
If I understand your procedure correctly, you're exchanging roughly half the coolant at its half life interval. As such, I imagine the effluent is draining clear and green so you probably don't really need to resort to extra cleaning chemistry. The main downside to your preemptive attack on corrosion and sediment buildup is that you'll be cursed with a longlife, troublefree cooling system which most assuredly also puts you on the North American Radiator Shop Association's open hit list...
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You should be in great shape. Hope you still find "generic" ethylene glycol... the new stuff will need a more thorough flush if you switch over.
 
my only issue is that you never get it all out...
The first time, say you get out ~3/4. then put more in, it well mixes, and you redrain... Well, youll only get out 3/4 of that original 1/4 that was left over. So you end up with increasing levels of junky old coolant.

That said, youre replacing so much so often that I doubt it would be an issue, unless sediment or junk accumulates in the passage ways of the engine itself.

I always though that a procedure like yours was a top-notch intermediate maintenance function. It may even border on overkill!

JMH

P.S. Are you sure that 4/5.3 ds of your coolantis always in the radiator? Seems a bit low capacity wise, and a bit high fractionally.
 
Thanks for the replies. My theory is that if the coolant is always fresh then the additive package will always be very strong and there really shouldn't ever be any measurable rust/scale/corrosion buildup. I don't see why more people don't do this.

JHZR2,
My Ford's Owner's Guide says the cooling system holds 5.3 qts (6.3 qts for an auto trans). I measure the amount that drain's from the rad and it is 4 qts. The algebra involved indicates that by my 2nd drain/fill I'll only have about 2 oz of OEM 'freeze left in the system. Overkill? Almost definitely, but for $4/yr why not.

[ December 20, 2004, 05:25 PM: Message edited by: cos ]
 
I generally do not recommend using a chemical flush unless you have something that needs to be removed such as solder bloom or scale. If you can see the tubes of your radiator and they do not have and deposits then just flush with water a couple of times. With water it doesn't hurt if you don't do the best job flushing. It takes at least 3 flushes and even 4 to do a good job and this is necessary especially if you use a cleaner. Some contain ammonium citrate which will produce ammonia when the pH is raised from adding the new coolant. This will then attack copper parts in the system.

Extended life coolant are very soap-like so when draining usually only a water flush is needed. It is not recommended to put extended life coolant in old gunky systems as the clean a little too good and will remove deposits that are plugging leaks. Better to stick with a conventional coolant.
 
Cos,

I also change my coolant every year, during the aniversary month, no matter what type of coolant.

At the first annual change on my 98 Contour SVT I thoroughly water flushed and then converted to Havoline Dexcool.

Once since then I have done another very thorough water only flush. The rest of the time I just do a drain and refill.

The car has 200,000 miles on it with original radiator and hoses and they still look perfect.

My experience agrees with yours. If you are doing an anual drain and refill, you don't need to do a flush very often if at all.

I change the brake fluid annually as well, also during the aniversary month.
 
Big Jim,

Jeez, your as bad as me. I also bleed my brakes each yr but am considering doing it every 2 yrs since I use DOT4 which is less hygroscopic then DOT3.
 
Same as my Transmission Infuser machine post.

The old school "drop your radiator plug" is only a way of diluting your system fill.

You drain 2 gallons of radiator stuff to 2 remaining gallons of contaminated and additive depleted coolant still in the block, heater core and lines.

What's the point in dilution?

The new infuser machines are pretty good at clearing the block, core etc replacing up to 90% of the old stuff.

It is kind of like saying what is the point of an oil change
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I love when people ask me why do I need coolant flushed gwahahaahah
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I have a question about flushing:

Since the corrosion inhibitors and other chemicals coat the piping, etc. inside of the coolant system, if you don't flush, does that make it more likely that you will overdose your system when you refill?
 
I flushed out the factory fill G12 "lifetime" coolant outta my 00 VW GTI(29K miles).

While it looked clean when it poured out there was sediment in the coolant.

The sediment rested to the bottom of the bucket the coolant sat in for a while waiting to be recycled.Pretty good amount too.
 
IMO a coolant flush is the only flush I will have done, no transmission or engines flushes as they seem to cause more problems then they cure but coolant system flushes, yes,they do remove a lot of crap even if the coolant looks pretty good beforehand.
 
Has anyone used one of those hose adaptor kits to hook up to the garden hose to flush the system after you drain the coolant?. Do you just remove the thermostat and have at it?
 
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