Intermittent EGR valve sticking problem

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My sister inherited my 99 Toyota 3.0L Solara when it had 200k miles on it.
It always had synthetic oil changes and oem filters by me.
Since then she added 40k miles to it and a couple of conventional oil changes.
The EGR valve is sticking either open or closed (not sure) so that a scan tool is giving random misfire codes. Toyota dealer confirmed the EGR needs replacement for 700.00.
I looked at the inside of the oil fill cap and can see varnish and a little sludge forming.
The question is; If I did a synthetic ((Pennzoil Platinum 5w30))oil change and substituted a quart of Marvell Mystery Oil (MMO) do you think it would clean out the engine and cause the EGR valve to work?
The aftermarket valve is 200.00 but didn't come with new gaskets or bolts, so unsure what to do.
 
Originally Posted By: riceqx2
The question is; If I did a synthetic ((Pennzoil Platinum 5w30))oil change and substituted a quart of Marvell Mystery Oil (MMO) do you think it would clean out the engine and cause the EGR valve to work?


No. The EGR valve external and routes a metered amount of exhaust gas from the exhaust manifold into the intake manifold. The engine oil never comes in contact with the valve. I think your only option is to replace the valve.
 
If the guy is handy with a wrench it might be worth trying to clean out the old EGR with a liberal dose of carb cleaner and ye olde toothbrush. If he/she's going to pay someone to fix it, then there's no point wasting labor time on a "it might work" clean up job and then potentially have to do it again to install the new part.
 
Is there a vacuum hose connected to the egr valve, or solenoid? The hose on my old car was cooked, you may not have good vacuum to the egr.

Another way to clean the egr valve is by using intake manifold cleaner spray. Follow instructions on the can.
 
Quote:
If I did a synthetic ((Pennzoil Platinum 5w30))oil change and substituted a quart of Marvell Mystery Oil (MMO) do you think it would clean out the engine and cause the EGR valve to work?


AutoRX it!!!

Seriously though... no, that won't clean out the EGR valve. I don't care how much you pay for the oil, it doesn't have magical properties (well, except maybe Amsoil... or so I'm told).

I had an intermittant EGR code on my old '94 Corsica. I took apart the EGR valve, cleaned it up and lubed the innards with antisieze. No codes for nearly a year.
 
Make sure you find a place to get a new EGR (in stock) and remove the old one and give it a good cleaning with TB cleaner. then check all hoses and connections to see if any are broke or collapsed. Reinstall and see what happens. Also, replace the PCV valve on that engine and clean the hoses to the PCV. Make sure you use TB cleaner safe for sensors.

I would go to PP as well to clean that engine out a bit.
 
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Sometimes, at least on Hondas, the passages after the EGR also get clogged and need to be cleaned.

But, on a car with 240,000 miles my first steps would be disassembly and cleaning of the EGR. Directions shouldn't be hard to find online.

Adding detergent to your oil isn't going to fix this.
 
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That one looks like it would be a bear to clean properly.
Amazon $146 with free shipping.
Save yourself the mess and headache.
Standard usually ships with gaskets,the bolts should be ok if not the (6) M8 bolts can be had at AA or Autozone for a couple of bucks,make sure you use never seize on them when re installing.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000EQE3GM

We had a 2000 Solara 3.0 100K,they are known to sludge.I changed the oil and threw 2 bottles of ARX in it and ran it for 3K changing the filter every 1K.
It worked well,a year and another 2 bottle treatment later it looked nice and clean.
Before anyone gets exited about not following ARX directions that what I did in this engine it produced great results.Your mileage may vary.
As others have posted putting anything in the oil is not going to clean the EGR valve.
 
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Are you technically inclined? If so take off the EGR valve and soak the inlet/outlet passages in some MMO and let it sit for a day or so then clean the remaining gunk with some brake cleaner or carb/choke cleaner and an old tooth-brush. Then follow up with a good penetrating fluid that leaves an oily residue. (NOT WD-40)

This may correct your problem before you have to spring for an new one.

The EGR was sticking on my dad's old Caravan and this is what we did and it has now been 100K KM (60K miles) and it hasn't stuck since.

Probably just some carbon buildup inside the valve preventing it from opening/closing properly.
 
I second the motion that you make sure your EGR passages (both into and out of the valve) are open. I don't know anything about Yotas, but high mileage GM vehicles are very prone to this.
 
Back when I worked at another place, a guy replaced the EGR valve only, and the car came back with no good results. The boss sent it to a Toyota dealer, and found that the modulator had failed.

On a Toyota, there are 2 round things that control the EGR. Also, there is a vacuum switching valve that controls them. Keep that in mind if you don't get results when replacing just the EGR valve.

My dad had a 1997 Lexus ES300 with the same engine. There was a maze of vacuum hoses that also needed replacement.

WARNING. Many plastic parts in the vacuum system will crack if you cut the hose with just one slice. Cut the hose above the nipple in several places, and peel the hose back with a knife. If you don't, there is about a 50/50 chance you will crack something.
 
Originally Posted By: artificialist
... WARNING. Many plastic parts in the vacuum system will crack if you cut the hose with just one slice. Cut the hose above the nipple in several places, and peel the hose back with a knife. If you don't, there is about a 50/50 chance you will crack something.


Also it is a good idea to take the car for a good run before working on it so that the hoses and surrounding areas are warm and more likely to be flexible.
 
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