Hi guys. would like to install an oil pressure gauge on my 2010 mountaineer 4.0. I assume the computer is or takes info from the factory gauge (light). Will installing a REAL gauge and keeping the original have any effect that you can think of on the computer. Looking for a quality gauge but small. Thanks
Installing oil pressure gauge
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On my old Ford I removed the factory sender from the engine, put on a short pipe nipple and a T fitting, then put the factory sender on one side of the T and the aftermarket gauge on the other. Not sure if that's possible on your engine, this was on an F-150 with the inline 6.
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Originally Posted By: KD0AXS
On my old Ford I removed the factory sender from the engine, put on a short pipe nipple and a T fitting, then put the factory sender on one side of the T and the aftermarket gauge on the other. Not sure if that's possible on your engine, this was on an F-150 with the inline 6.
I would expect this to be doable on this vehicle.
OP: I'd recommend a nice Autometer gauge, I've had excellent luck with them on past Mustang projects.
On my old Ford I removed the factory sender from the engine, put on a short pipe nipple and a T fitting, then put the factory sender on one side of the T and the aftermarket gauge on the other. Not sure if that's possible on your engine, this was on an F-150 with the inline 6.
I would expect this to be doable on this vehicle.
OP: I'd recommend a nice Autometer gauge, I've had excellent luck with them on past Mustang projects.
Originally Posted By: KD0AXS
On my old Ford I removed the factory sender from the engine, put on a short pipe nipple and a T fitting, then put the factory sender on one side of the T and the aftermarket gauge on the other. Not sure if that's possible on your engine, this was on an F-150 with the inline 6.
I did the same exact thing and spliced in my pre-luber on my 300 I6.
On my old Ford I removed the factory sender from the engine, put on a short pipe nipple and a T fitting, then put the factory sender on one side of the T and the aftermarket gauge on the other. Not sure if that's possible on your engine, this was on an F-150 with the inline 6.
I did the same exact thing and spliced in my pre-luber on my 300 I6.
x2 on the short pipe nipple.
I had used a long piece of pipe on a small gas engine to extend the drain. It broke and dumped the oil, but I caught it in time. It broke due to the vibrations. A car engine doesn't vibrate as much, but you have more stuff hanging off the end.
I'd consider using schedule 80 or heavier pipe to reduce the risk of breakage. You can find it at www.mcmaster.com
I had used a long piece of pipe on a small gas engine to extend the drain. It broke and dumped the oil, but I caught it in time. It broke due to the vibrations. A car engine doesn't vibrate as much, but you have more stuff hanging off the end.
I'd consider using schedule 80 or heavier pipe to reduce the risk of breakage. You can find it at www.mcmaster.com
As Overkill pointed out AutoMeter are good. Stuart Warner, Smiths and VDO were also good gauges but I don't know about the new ones.
Thanks everyone for your input. Most of the gauges I have looked at come with the fittings to have both senders. Have not picked a gauge yet. Would you go full mechanical (plastic tube) or one with the 12v sender.
Mechanical but forget the nylon tubing, that's a defect waiting to happen. The is a good setup just get the 4 AN to 1/8 npt adapter. Plumb in a piece of wire to get the correct length, leave a little extra for engine mount flexing.
https://www.amazon.com/Allstar-Performan...S8QS8M2XY5XN5QV
Copper works well also but you need to be careful and put a couple of coils in the line but its perfect for antiques, nice period optics.
https://www.amazon.com/Allstar-Performan...S8QS8M2XY5XN5QV
Copper works well also but you need to be careful and put a couple of coils in the line but its perfect for antiques, nice period optics.
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The mechanical with the tube is more accurate. But it can burst. drain your oil before you know it or flood your interier with 230f oil. I run copper line.
Electric is better as far as leaks go. But not as accurate. Usually good enough though.
Electric is better as far as leaks go. But not as accurate. Usually good enough though.
Agree on the possible issues with plastic tubing. I will go with copper or electric. Thanks guys.
Originally Posted By: Chris142
The mechanical with the tube is more accurate. But it can burst. drain your oil before you know it or flood your interier with 230f oil.
I have never had this happen, nor have I ever seen it happen on anyone else's engine.
The mechanical with the tube is more accurate. But it can burst. drain your oil before you know it or flood your interier with 230f oil.
I have never had this happen, nor have I ever seen it happen on anyone else's engine.
Originally Posted By: Linctex
Originally Posted By: Chris142
The mechanical with the tube is more accurate. But it can burst. drain your oil before you know it or flood your interier with 230f oil.
I have never had this happen, nor have I ever seen it happen on anyone else's engine.
I have.....But it was from installation error, Routing the nylon line where it was touching a courtesy light bulb under the dash. I guess that's not bursting though.
Originally Posted By: Chris142
The mechanical with the tube is more accurate. But it can burst. drain your oil before you know it or flood your interier with 230f oil.
I have never had this happen, nor have I ever seen it happen on anyone else's engine.
I have.....But it was from installation error, Routing the nylon line where it was touching a courtesy light bulb under the dash. I guess that's not bursting though.
Originally Posted By: Linctex
Originally Posted By: Chris142
The mechanical with the tube is more accurate. But it can burst. drain your oil before you know it or flood your interier with 230f oil.
I have never had this happen, nor have I ever seen it happen on anyone else's engine.
I have seen it flood the interior. Usually someone kicked the line off the gauge.
Originally Posted By: Chris142
The mechanical with the tube is more accurate. But it can burst. drain your oil before you know it or flood your interier with 230f oil.
I have never had this happen, nor have I ever seen it happen on anyone else's engine.
I have seen it flood the interior. Usually someone kicked the line off the gauge.
I would do electric purely because the idea of having oil at operating temp and pressure anywhere near the inside of a car I am in does not sit well with me.
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Adapter
https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Steel-1-8-Inch-NPT-Branch-Tee-Adapter-Fitting,37269.html?sku=6171304&utm_medium=CSEGoogle&utm_source=CSE&utm_campaign=CSEGOOGLE&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIrJ6h-YGs2gIVkouzCh3MfA6OEAQYBCABEgKKefD_BwE
https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Steel-1-8-Inch-NPT-Branch-Tee-Adapter-Fitting,37269.html?sku=6171304&utm_medium=CSEGoogle&utm_source=CSE&utm_campaign=CSEGOOGLE&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIrJ6h-YGs2gIVkouzCh3MfA6OEAQYBCABEgKKefD_BwE
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Smaller than normal gauge,
Normal is 52mm,
This is 38 I believe...
https://www.autometer.com/1-1-2-oil-press-0-100-psi-elec.html
Normal is 52mm,
This is 38 I believe...
https://www.autometer.com/1-1-2-oil-press-0-100-psi-elec.html
Originally Posted By: littleant
Agree on the possible issues with plastic tubing. I will go with copper or electric. Thanks guys.
Did you look at this? It is better than copper tube, no work/strain hardening or kinking.
A quality gauge will not leak, I still see 50+ year old vehicles with the original mechanical gauge in good working order.
https://www.amazon.com/Allstar-Performan...S8QS8M2XY5XN5QV
Agree on the possible issues with plastic tubing. I will go with copper or electric. Thanks guys.
Did you look at this? It is better than copper tube, no work/strain hardening or kinking.
A quality gauge will not leak, I still see 50+ year old vehicles with the original mechanical gauge in good working order.
https://www.amazon.com/Allstar-Performan...S8QS8M2XY5XN5QV
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What Chris said about plumbing vs electrical. Get the shortest pipe you can find and screw the light in one side and gauge plumbing on the other. Electrical senders can leak but not fail catastrophically. I ruined a perfectly good 7hp Tecumseh when the 3" drain pipe I added backed out.
Thanks for the links. Like that auto meter. Trav if I go mechanical I will use that setup. Thanks for the link
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