Installation of hollow bolt on oil pan of 6.0 PSD

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LateArrivalforLSU

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Alright, I've decided to change my current return location to the oil pan instead of through the fill neck so the oil drains out of my bypass filter (less of a mess when changing the TP out).

Where exactly/what location do I need to punch a hole in my oil pan in order to screw in the hollow bolt? (I'm a little nervous about this whole procedure)

[ July 08, 2005, 12:44 AM: Message edited by: Go_Hogs_Go ]
 
I had an Amsoil unit. The hole was not drilled it was "punched" with a punch. The best I remember it warned about drilling due to filings and other reasons. Amsoil has the instructions on how to install their hollow bolt/bypass system on their site.
 
Java is correct, NO drilling.
I have the correct shoulder punch. A pilot hole is punched, and then probed with a wire to ensure that nothing is behind the hole such as the oil pick-up tube. If everything is clear the hole is further punched to the shoulder.

The location of the hole is a guess at best. Usually try to avoid any area that has irregularities on the side of the pan. Usually this is the pick-up tube area.

I can punch this for you and install the STHB. After installation, we can put a 1/4" pipe plug in the Self Tapping Hollow Bolt and you can change your return at your leisure at home.
 
Will probably take longer to look at your Mods than punch the hole. I have the right punch and short handle hammer. Done a few, so no problem.

Tony
 
The ideal place for the self tapping hollow bolt is just above the oil level but not high enough where the crank shaft hits it. Punch a small hole first and run a wire inside to make sure there is nothing like the oil pick up tube in the way. If you have a problem it is easy to plug the hole with a small screw. The reason you return the oil above the oil level is air can enter the filter at shut down and allow the excess oil to drain. Sometimes the air can enter from the pressure side but not always. On my Subaru with the sandwich adapter the filter will stay full until I loosen the tee handle on the old Motor Guard M-100 and let air in. I do it when the filter is still hot.
A drilled hole in the oil pan has no strength. A punched hole has more metal for the self tapping hollow bolt to cut into. If you don't punch the hole large enough the self tapping hollow bolt may break off in the hole and be hard to get out. Also if you see some spot welds in the area it might be baffles and you might be punching a hole thru two layers of steel.

Ralph
burnout.gif
 
The thought of installing the self tapping hollow bolt scared the crap out of me. I recently installed a Frantz system. The kit comes with the self tapping hollow bolt. My concerns were, if i use this, how will i know what moving part is in the pan and close to where i installed it? Also having just a screw through the pan, didn't seem that strong to me. So to overcome these 2 concerns i did the following. Removed the pan, i could now see exactly what parts actually submerged into the pan and where they were located. Now with the ideal location identified, we then drilled a hole through the pan. A friend then made up a fitting which was then welded to the outside of the pan. We screwed the lines directly into this. Yes it was a bit of mucking around, but i am very comfortable in knowing it is 100% ok.
 
I agree, it was scarry experience; purposly knocking a hole in a perfectly good oil pan. What did I do? I got the punch and a hammer and went to work. Maybe a little stupid, but, I figured those that make these things know the clearances. However, I did have a difficult time getting the bolt started. What I found out is the punch has to be burried to the hilt. Then the hole will be the correct size to start the hollow bolt. What surprised me the most was it did not leak a drop (especially after me doing the work).
 
I have a few questions on punching my oil pan for a hollow bolt.
I was wondering how big of a hole do you have to punch?
Does it take a special punch or can I get one from my local Home Depot store?
 
Ive got a 5.3 and my pan is aluminum, and Ive heard that you are suppose to drill and tap it instead of punch a whole, Im not sure about the 6.0, just my 2cents worth
 
I wouldn't try to punch aluminum. In that application I'd drill and tap aiming just below the oil level line so that the oil would flow out while you were drilling and tapping. (Or over fill a couple of quarts and go above what would be the normal level.) I went in via the drain bolt and I always worry the something will come loose and all the oil will drain out.
 
quote:
Originally posted by rmattingley:
Ive got a 5.3 and my pan is aluminum, and Ive heard that you are suppose to drill and tap it instead of punch a whole, Im not sure about the 6.0, just my 2cents worth
Click to expand...
You can punch the 6.0 PSD pan, it is metal. On your 5.3 with aluminum, DO NOT punch a hole. You will only crack the pan. You must drill and tap if that is where your are going to return.

6.0 PSD STHB installation

smile.gif
 
quote:
Originally posted by handyman:
I have a few questions on punching my oil pan for a hollow bolt.
I was wondering how big of a hole do you have to punch?
Does it take a special punch or can I get one from my local Home Depot store?
Click to expand...
The punch is $4.00 from here:

Punch Item #320

smile.gif
 
Thanks guys for the advice.
I got the bolt and I have some punches. I'm waiting for this heat wave to cool off.
 
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