Ideal mileage to switch to Synthetic

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jonny-b, can you you please explain what your comment has to do with the question. Specifically, can you describe a single characterisitic of a group III, IV, or V based oil that is related to the original question? I don't won't to get into definitions of "real" synthetic and will not contribute to such threads any more. But again, what is it that you think that you know about the various oil groups that would be significant in relation to a "when should I switch" quesiton?

Stainless, what logical arguments can you make about using Pennzoil Platinum that would relate to "not wanting a SYNTHETIC" What physical characteristics of group III, IV, or V base oils would be significant for your argument about using PP?
 
Well, the Z06 came with Mobil 1 from the factory, the new Mustang came with a semi synthetic, which i change to Mobil 1 after 2000 miles...Personally, i would drive a new car for the 3000 miles, then change to synthetic....But, only if you are keeping the car forever...To use synthetic oil for a car you plan on keeping 3-4 years is a total waste in my opinion...
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Interesting. Thank you.

After reading that link I now recall he too said something about waiting until there was no more oil consumption...as a sign that break in was complete. I did notice some oil consumption during the early miles, but I assumed it might have been the LC20 being "consumed". At 8,400 miles consumption seems to be zero.
 
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Well, the Z06 came with Mobil 1 from the factory, the new Mustang came with a semi synthetic, which i change to Mobil 1 after 2000 miles...Personally, i would drive a new car for the 3000 miles, then change to synthetic....But, only if you are keeping the car forever...To use synthetic oil for a car you plan on keeping 3-4 years is a total waste in my opinion...
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Probably right about the 3-4 years and synthetic comment. In my case, I'll be keeping this Accord until the wheels fall off. I'm expecting at LEAST 300K out of it. My switch to PP will be occurring, according to the OLM or my own impatience, at about 17-18K.
 
GMorg, as you can see from Loudawg's question, he is wondering if it is an ideal time, to switch over to synthetic.
What I tried to point out here, is that there is a difference from synthetic to synthetic. The reason, is because mineral oil is being defined to be synthetic. A group 3 dino-synthetic will not be a problem to use, from day 1,but an ester/PAO synthetic oil will be a problem. This issue have been mentioned from both Amsoil, Redline and RP. Again GMorg; "when you break in an engine, you should use mineral oil. Mineral oil is Group 1, 2 and 3. It still is, even though some oilcompanies in the US say it synthetic. PAO(group4) and Ester(group5) are true synthetic because they are built from "scratch".
 
I would say that for a petrol-engine, you should go some 4K miles before you switch over to a Ester/PAO synthetic. In a diesel, you should do at least 7-8K miles.
 
For new engine break-in...what is the 'harm' of doing one 3K OCI with dino to ensure rings are seated, provided it is allowed by warranty ? What advantage an I missing in one OCI NOT using synthetic ?

I can see the possible upside but I don't see the downside.>

Conversely, if you have higher than normal oil consumption on new engine, do a 3K oci with dino at any time so long as warranty allows.

On the other end, I'm converting one vehicle at 176K miles to synthetic from dino. Why Now ? Economics...I'm finding inexpensive Grp III synthetic (15W50) while gas prices are very high in this air cooled application (slow to come up to temperature). No I don't expect to extend my OCI beyond 3K, but I might .... depending on Economics.
 
Switch as soon as the rings are seated. (No oil consumption) Exception is many European cars with Nikasil or similar bores that require OEM fill to stay in for proper seating.
 
I think I'll be good to go here. I'm at about 16.3K now...either next weekend or weekend after, I'm switching to the PP. That'll be about 17K or so, and the OLM just now fell to 40%, so it's still early by that measure.

There is positively no oil consumption or loss off any kind...running like a top. I'm SO anxious to see how the PP feels on the old butt dyno and to my naked ears.

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I say switch when you're willing to go an OCI long enough in either months or miles to justify the cost.
 
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I say switch when you're willing to go an OCI long enough in either months or miles to justify the cost.




Yes, makes sense. In my case, the cost is about the same as I was paying for Motorcraft...that was 2.08/qt. The PP is split between $1.99/qt from PB and 2.84/qt from AA. And I'll take the OLM out to 10-15% now, instead of 25-40% like I've been doing. Just feel safer, I guess. So anyway, it should actually cost me less and require less oil changes/time/filters.
 
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