I swear I have the worst luck...

[The Critic]

Or cheap impact drivers need to go to heck.

I did the front pads/rotors on a co-worker's 2008 TSX tonight. This is a CA car, with 60k, and no signs of rust anywhere.

I tried to use an impact driver on those infamous rotor hat screws with no success. I soaked them in pb blaster, tried again and again, and all the efforts simply further ruined the head.

As a last resort, I tried to use a screwdriver bit on my Makita impact and surprisingly, one of them came out. For the rest, I had to drill out the remaining three...and broke several drill bits in the process.

Towards the end, I learned that if you use the biggest drill bit in your toolbox and drill it into the screw about 1/8", and hit reverse on the drill, the screw will come out.

If only I knew this before breaking four drill bits.

Of course, I did not have a chisel with me, or I would have tried the chisel + hammer method.

Now the real question is, should I put new screws back in (but use anti-seize)?

Also, is it possible that I simply had a weak/bum impact driver? This was a cheap Powerbuilt one from Amazon.

Thanks.

 

[meangreen01]

My Mazda has those. I believe the only use they had was keeping the disk from flopping around during assembly.

 

[The Critic]

I believe that is their only purpose, but it feels weird to not put back all of the parts.

As a side note, I did not have any experience with drilling out screws/bolts until tonight (thankfully), but I had thought that it'd be best to use the smallest bit first. Apparently that was not the case here.

 

[MaximusD]

I build Acura/Honda models at the factory. These are set screws, only used to hold rotors to hub during assembly. Impacts don't work as well as a hammer drill. I know it sounds odd, but use a flat nosed bit with the hammer drill, the screws come right out with no need to drill them out. I've never replaced the set screws...

 

[tommygunn]

I've always thrown those screws out, the lug nuts do a way better job holding the rotors on anyhow, those tiny screws are relatively pointless in the big scope of things.

Just make sure you don't knock a loose rotor off or something before rust Loctites it on for you, lol.

 

[KB2008X]

MaximusD is correct. "Impacts don't work as well as a hammer drill. I know it sounds odd, but use a flat nosed bit with the hammer drill, the screws come right out with no need to drill them out."

Using the right tool, the right bit, the right technique, along with your newfound experience and the next one will be much easier. I've removed hundreds of those rotor screws and more than half I didn't even need to use the hammer.

Now, to be fair I have to admit it is far easier when the vehicle is on a rack and you're able to stand up. Squatting down on the ground is not the preferred method, although it is quite doable, and often the only choice DIYers have.

And there isn't really a need to replace them - no one I've known does.

Keith

 

[The Critic]

Thanks guys. My Makita drill is a hammer drill, which I'm guessing is probably why after some drilling with a 1/4" bit, going in reverse removed the screw right away.

 

[KB2008X]

I misspoke regarding the tool I use for removing rotor screws. It's called a Hand Impact Driver, not a hammer drill. You strike it with a hammer to get the twisting action while at the same time getting the impact that a hammer delivers. Below is a high quality hand impact set like what I use.

amazon hand impact driver tool set

Keith

 

[NHGUY]

They sell left handed drill bits.

 

[Hokiefyd]

They were frozen on the MDX when I did the brakes the first time after we got the car. The way I got them out was to use a small Philips bit in a 1/4" socket on my small 1/4" ratchet. I would apply "reverse pressure" on the ratchet while also lightly hammering the head of it with a claw hammer. I always put them back on, but with a healthy application of anti-seize. I've taken the brakes apart a few times since for pad issues and I've turned the rotors a few times because of that, and the screws always come out easy now.

 

[NateDN10]

I've been there. I wound up drilling out the two on the driver's side, and breaking 2 drill bits in the process. A neighbor saw me working and let me borrow a set of easy-outs. Those worked great.

I didn't replace the screws either.

 

[MarkM66]

Originally Posted By: KB2008X
I misspoke regarding the tool I use for removing rotor screws. It's called a Hand Impact Driver, not a hammer drill. You strike it with a hammer to get the twisting action while at the same time getting the impact that a hammer delivers. Below is a high quality hand impact set like what I use.

amazon hand impact driver tool set

Keith


Exactly. That's the best, and easiest tool for the job!

 

[Mr_Incredible]

Drill Doctor > broken bits. If the bit isn't broken too far down you can resurrect them on the Dr. I paid for the D.D. the first day when I sharpened the can full of dull and broken bits.

I have a Makita clutched drill that I put in reverse and turn the clutch down to Weak. Then try to reverse the screw. Then turn the clutch up until the screw comes out or doesn't. Then, if that doesn't work I go to the Extraordinary Measures list.

Screws? We don't need no stinkin' screws.

 

[Chris142]

No body replaces those screws. leave them out and the next guy will thank you.

 

[stephen9666]

Originally Posted By: KB2008X
I misspoke regarding the tool I use for removing rotor screws. It's called a Hand Impact Driver, not a hammer drill. You strike it with a hammer to get the twisting action while at the same time getting the impact that a hammer delivers. Below is a high quality hand impact set like what I use.

amazon hand impact driver tool set

Keith


That's the tool the OP used. I suspect he had it set wrong, so it was trying to tighten the screws.

 

[The Critic]

Originally Posted By: stephen9666
Originally Posted By: NateDN10
I've been there. I wound up drilling out the two on the driver's side, and breaking 2 drill bits in the process. A neighbor saw me working and let me borrow a set of easy-outs. Those worked great.

I didn't replace the screws either.


That's the tool the OP used. I suspect he had it set wrong, so it was trying to tighten the screws.


It was set to L for loosen per the instructions.

 

[stephen9666]

Originally Posted By: The Critic
Originally Posted By: stephen9666
Originally Posted By: NateDN10
I've been there. I wound up drilling out the two on the driver's side, and breaking 2 drill bits in the process. A neighbor saw me working and let me borrow a set of easy-outs. Those worked great.

I didn't replace the screws either.


That's the tool the OP used. I suspect he had it set wrong, so it was trying to tighten the screws.


It was set to L for loosen per the instructions.


But, did you verify the instructions were correct, and no written in terribly translated English?

If you push it by hand, you should be able to determine what way it will turn.

It seems you haven't used them before, judging by your posts.

 

[stephen9666]

I should add - I don't mean to bash the Critic. He very well could have been using it properly. I haven't used the brand he purchased and perhaps he got a defective one.

 

[VNTS]

Why does honda and hynudai etc waste cost on those, easier at factory to plop the rotor on and then use the serate washer on one of the studs to hold it in place.

I always yank all rotors when new or new to me and apply some copper antiseize on hub face where it mates to the rotor so down the road they wont stick. Also good practive to pull the drums and do the same.

I feel your pain, assisted neighbor on a Hyndai with similiar stupid set up after he butcher the screws. Had to drill them out.
Designers who resort to that trick should be shown the door. poor design!

 

[Hootbro]

Interesting. I may just take the screws out of my brake rotors on my KIA Soul when I rotate the tires next time. Save having to wrestle them out later come first brake job.