I have bad pinion bearings

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The rear diff on my Ranger is howling really loud. I'm about 99% sure it's bad pinion bearings. You can here the howling in this video:


So this past weekend I did some diagnosing. First I jacked up the rear, removed the rear tires, started the truck up and let it run in gear. The sound was definitely coming from the center section, not the wheel bearings. Then, I put the tires back on, removed the rear driveshaft, and drove around the block in 4wd (essentially making the truck a front wheel drive). The howling was 99% gone. I think that’s sufficient to rule out the wheel bearings and point towards pinion bearings.

Then I jacked the truck up again and started rotating the pinion by hand. I get a loud clunking which is amplified without the driveshaft. With the driveshaft installed, it’s much less pronounced. You can see what I mean in this video:


Next, I pop the cover off to see if there are any broken chunks or anything in there. There’s nothing broken and no glaringly obvious problems. No chipped teeth on the ring or pinion. The only problem I saw was a thin layer of sludge on the diff cover (you can see where I rubbed a section clean with a rag. That’s what it’s supposed to look like. The rest is darker because of the sludge.)


And some fine particles:


I got some gear marking compound and checked the pattern too. It looks pretty good, although I’m not sure what’s up with that diagonal line right in the middle:




And another video of the clunking with the cover off. You can hear it clunking at the same point as I rocked it back and forth.


Well, why would a truck with only 48k miles on it already have bad pinion bearings? About 4 years and 25k miles ago, I had a SMALL drip from the pinion seal, so I had a shop replace it. I'm guessing they didn’t torque the pinion nut down properly and messed up the bearing preload.

So, I think my best and cheapest option is to get a junkyard axle. I can get one with only 52k miles on it for $450, or one with 100k miles for about $100. I want to keep this axle and use this as an opportunity to learn how to rebuild a differential. I can rebuild it in my spare time without having the truck down and then keep it as a spare. And I plan on installing a crush sleeve eliminator on it so I change the pinion seal and not worry about screwing up the preload.
 
I like to look at the damage to the vehicle in the junkyard before I purchase a product. If the vehicle has been hit hard in the rear section I would shy away from the axle assembly. The difference in mileage and price compared to my labor of R&R the assembly twice and going to the junkyard twice is priceless.
 
I would grab the 100K mile axle, make sure it's in good shape and just put it in. They really are not something that goes bad. It should be a fairly quick swap on a leaf sprung vehicle.

With that said, I am going to contradict myself

The rear pinion bearing in my Cherokee is bad - has been since I have owned it. Whines on deceleration for the last 30K miles and it seems to come and go, but it doesn't seem to get worse.

The front axle on my Cherokee, however, went from quiet to vibrations to chewing up the ring and pinion in a few K miles. It was cheaper for me to buy a junkyard axle and swap it in.

$75 (Axle) + $125 (ball joints) + 80 (rebuild lCA mounts) beats $600 for getting the differential rebuilt in a shop and another $125 for ball joints.
 
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So does everyone pretty much agree with my diagnosis? Turns out the place with the 100k mile axles actually want about $350 for them so, I'm going with the 52k mile $450 one. I was going to pick it up today but the place is closed.
mad.gif
Their website said they'd be open from 9-12 today. Totally screwed up my whole weekend. Super friggin mad....
mad.gif
 
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