I finally changed over to Dex VI

[WishIhadatruck]

Well, I finally did a filter change and a complete flush of the transmission on my '96 Roadmaster Wagon with a 4L60E transmission in it. I flused it using the cooler line method and it worked pretty well. I want to thank those on this site that described the process in the past and made it possible for me to have the courage to give it a try.

I bought the car last year with about 90k miles on it and did a pan drop with a new filter and filled it back up with Mobil 1 ATF. Only took about 4 qts that time of about 10+ in the system. When I drained it out last year the fluid looked perfect and the filter was spotless inside, perhaps it had just been done not long before I bought it. It always shifted real well with the exception of being a little harsh on the 1-2 shift, but nothing too serious and it was just fine a higher throttle positions on the 1-2 shift.

I had some left over Auto-Rx and put that in the transmission 1500 miles ago and just flushed out the transmission and put in a new filter. The old filter (with about 12.5k miles on it) still looked pretty good, not very dirty. The inside of the trans. that I could see looked spotless. I did the flush with Dex VI (GM brand) using 12 qts.

I think it shifts smoother now on the 1-2 shift but that might have improved before the flush, perhaps the ARX did some good. Hopefully I'll get a lot more life out of the transmission. I'll probably shoot for 30k pan drops and flushes since this car seems some towing duty.

 

[odessit]

can you post a link to the cooler line method of changing ATF? I need to change fluid in my 97 Altima

 

[Kestas]

Here it is, odessit, with all the excruciating detail.

1. Pull the transmission dipstick. Fresh fluid is translucent and cherry red. Some darkening is normal, but if it is reddish brown or mustard color and smells like burnt varnish, it is worn out.

2. Make sure the fluid is warm.

3. Remove all pan bolts except for the corners. Remove the bolt from the lowest corner, then loosen the other corner bolts a turn or two. Carefully pry the pan to break the gasket seal at the lowest corner. Drain mostly from this corner. With good technique you can avoid or at least minimize the red bath.

4. Remove pan. Inspect the pan before cleaning. A small amount of fine grey clutch dust is normal. However, if you find metal shavings, there has been transmission damage. Remove all old gasket material. Some rubber gaskets are reusable. Clean the pan and magnet with solvent and wipe dry so there is no harmful residue. Shop air can be used to clean the magnet. Hammer back any pan damage from previous overtightening.

5. (Optional) Drill hole in pan at low point and install a drain kit available from most auto supply houses. Make sure the kit protruding inside the pan doesn't interfere with anything on the transmission.

6. Replace filter.

7. Position gasket on pan. Some gaskets have four holes slightly smaller than the rest to allow four bolts through the pan and through these smaller holes to hold the four bolts and gasket in place.

8. Hand tighten pan bolts in a criss-cross pattern. After that, use a torque wrench to tighten bolts to proper ft-lbs as per manufacturer.

9. Refill the transmission using only the amount shown as “refill capacity” in the owners manual (or an equal amount that was drained), using the type of fluid specified for the vehicle.

10. You now have replaced the transmission fluid and filter according to manufacturer’s requirements. Fluid is changed in the pan only.

You can stop here and go to Step 17 if you just wanted a regular drop-the-pan fluid change. For a complete exchange of the fluid (including transmission body and torque converter) continue with the next steps.

11. Obtain the total system capacity of the vehicle from the manufacturer. Have this amount - plus a bit more - of fluid readily available.

12. Disconnect the oil cooler line from the oil cooler. Tickle the ignition to find the flow direction. Direct the stream of fluid toward a receptacle. It is better to use a clear length of hose with a shoplight laying next to it so you can see when all the old fluid has left the system.

13. Start the engine, let it idle to pump out old transmission fluid until you start seeing air bubbles.

14. Stop the engine. Refill transmission through fill tube with fresh fluid - same amount as pumped out (usually about 2-3 quarts).

15. When either the fluid color brightens or the total capacity has been replaced, shut the engine off and re-attach the oil cooler line. All transmission fluid has now been changed.

16. Button everything back up. Clean up the mess.

17. Recheck the fluid level. With the car on level ground, set the parking brake and the transmission in Park or Neutral. Let the engine idle for a few minutes. Shift the transmission through all detents, pausing momentarily at each position, before returning the lever to Park or Neutral. Check the fluid level again and check for leaks. Refill fluid so it is slightly undercharged. This way it can be properly checked and topped off after a long drive.

 

[WishIhadatruck]

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can you post a link to the cooler line method of changing ATF? I need to change fluid in my 97 Altima

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I was just searching for and reading Kestas post since he has described it the best that I can remember. Here is a link if you want to read everyone elses coments.

Thanks Kestas.

Link to posts about flushing with the cooler line.

My car was quite easy since the cooler line had an easy way to seperate it after going through the radiator cooler and stock external cooler. It worked best with my wife starting and stoping the car, that made it go fairly quick once I figured out which way the fluid was flowing.

Good luck oddesit.

 

[odessit]

thanks guys

what I needed

 

[lalamax]

if i only exchange the oil by the return line, how do i know when to stop the engine? and do i need to shift the gears while the oil is draining from the return line?

 

[Big Jim]

I use a calibrated bucket to do the service. I use a five gallon bucket and calibrate it with a quart jar, one bottle full of water at a time, marking the spot on the side.

I pump out the capacity of the trans plus a quart or two for good measure. Of course, I add as I go so it is never allowed to get too low.

 

[rshaw125]

Install a fluid cooler if you have not already!

 

[unDummy]

Altima has a drainplug. No need with cooler line method if you exercise the drainplug a couple times a year.

Cooler line method is very simple if you have access to and can remove the ATF line at the cooler or transmission.

Start by researching your vehicle. If it has internal/external thermostats, you won't be able to do a cooler line flush with the new cold ATF. Actually you can, but heating up ATF on the kitchen stove which will add lawyer solving distress.

Start by draining your pan(if you have a drainplug) and by servicing your pan magnets(if equipped) and the ATF filter(definitely if older then 50k). If you don't have a drainplug, you can pump fluid out via disconnected ATF line to make pan removal less messy. Thru-dipstick fluid extractor is a worthy investment. Drainplug kit should be considered too.

Refill transmission with the amount removed from pan or plug drop, and add extra quart or 2.
Disconnect said ATF line and extend as required. I use long clear tubing from the hardware store that I can hoseclamp or adapt as needed(and watch the flow). You'll need to know the flow direction of your ATF. Trial and error it!
A 2nd person, that listens, is needed to start/shutoff vehicle allowing you to top it off as needed.
Aim the disconnected cooler line(preferably extended) and start vehicle(leave in park always). Shut vehicle off when flow stops(usually the pan capacity). Refill and repeat. Refill and check running level. Button her up and you're done.
3 gallons of ATF will cover just about every transmission.
1 gallon used for the initial fill after pan drop/filter change.
2nd gallon for repeat.
3rd gallon for final top off.
Reference your AT's ATF total capacity and pan capacity and adjust as needed.

If you have some tools and common sense, you can flush the fluid yourself with a quality full synthetic ATF for the cost of a dealer machine flush using cheap mineral bulk oil.

Engine must be hot. Cooler line flush is less messy when vehicle is at hot low idle.
I've also been known to skip the 'repeat gallon' step. After draining the pan, I usually seriously overfill the transmission and pump the full capacity out. We're not driving and most AT cases/pans have plenty of room for the overfilled capacity(gallon).

If you have a drainplug, 4-5 drain/refills, with at least 10 minute drive to warm/mix the ATF, is equivalent to a flush. There is no need to disconnect lines, learn the ATF flow, break out measured buckets, use a 2nd person......

 

[Mike_Murrell]

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Actually you can, but heating up ATF on the kitchen stove which will add lawyer solving distress.

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For many, the lawyers would be a small problem. I've got a life-size picture of my better half comin' home to find me heating up transmission fluid in her kitchen!

]

 

[onion]

That's nothing. I talked a friend of mine into putting a transmission case in the dishwasher once. Worked great. He wasn't married at the time, but his roommates were pisssed.

 

[cmhj]

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That's nothing. I talked a friend of mine into putting a transmission case in the dishwasher once. Worked great. He wasn't married at the time, but his roommates were pisssed.

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Gez, my wife would have a bird if I ever put something in her dishwasher.

I got into enough trouble one night when I was rebuilding the kids starter on the kitchen table. Was cold out and I didn't feel like heating up the garage for a 30 min. repair.

Even though I had rags, paper etc. laid, she thought it was the end of her world when she saw that greasy stater housing.