I Changed the Plugs on the Altima

[dkryan]

This 2014 has 87,500 on the odometer and a recommended spark plug change at 105k miles.

I figured "better sooner than never" so I purchased the OEM Denso iridium longlife plugs from Rock Auto.

It was a fairly simple task to complete. However, the first two plugs (from the left when facing the firewall) initially took a little effort to free up but it was easy to wrench them out with a 14mm spark plug socket and extension once I got them started.

However, the third and fourth plugs required a focused effort to free them up. And once initially loosened, they turned noticeably slower coming out than the first two plugs.

The threads on all of the plugs looked okay once they were out.

The engine was cold when I performed this plug change.

The plug on the left is new (obviously) and all four plug looked identical to the one on the right.

 

[crainholio]

That take-off plug is just impressive at 105K miles of use. It's got white deposits which may indicate lean burn and/or fuel additives, but not problematic. The gap measurements would be interesting.

 

[Rand]

Originally Posted by crainholio
That take-off plug is just impressive at 105K miles of use. It's got white deposits which may indicate lean burn and/or fuel additives, but not problematic. The gap measurements would be interesting.


87500 miles per the first post.

 

[WobblyElvis]

Looks like they could have gone another 100,000 miles. Don't like hearing they were difficult to remove. I might have used some anti seize on the new plugs. Often new plugs come with an anti seize coating.

 

[atikovi]

Originally Posted by WobblyElvis
I might have used some anti seize on the new plugs. Often new plugs come with an anti seize coating.


Here we go.

 

[dkryan]

Originally Posted by WobblyElvis
Looks like they could have gone another 100,000 miles. Don't like hearing they were difficult to remove. I might have used some anti seize on the new plugs. Often new plugs come with an anti seize coating.


Denso recommends not using anti-seize on the threads.

 

[Trav]

Did you read your own post?

Quote
However, the first two plugs (from the left when facing the firewall) initially took a little effort to free up but it was easy to wrench them out with a 14mm spark plug socket and extension once I got them started.

However, the third and fourth plugs required a focused effort to free them up. And once initially loosened, they turned noticeably slower coming out than the first two plugs.


It is much easier and safer for them to say not to use it rather than going into a long explanation about how to use it, when to use it, how much of it to use, how much to reduce the torque and how not to use it then deal with the law suits that come from misfires and damaged cats.
Some engines have no issues but in the salt belt things can be very different, until you have one that is so stuck you risk breaking it off or pulling the threads you don't know what trouble is doing this simple job.

Used properly its worthwhile using.

 

[Pelican]

Well Done!! If you had waited till you reach 105K they might not have come off without some real help.

I remember a tip a mechanic once gave me and it was to loosen & tighten the plugs around 50K so that you won't have them seize if you go the full length.

 

[crainholio]

Originally Posted by Rand
Originally Posted by crainholio
That take-off plug is just impressive at 105K miles of use. It's got white deposits which may indicate lean burn and/or fuel additives, but not problematic. The gap measurements would be interesting.


87500 miles per the first post.


Whoops, thanks for the correction. Still impressive at 87.5K.

 

[JeffKeryk]

You may never so em again.
Good job.
I spray a little WD40 down the threads to clean them.
I wanna be able to easily thread them in by hand.

Oh oh....

 

[FA_WRX]

Quote


It is much easier and safer for them to say not to use it rather than going into a long explanation about how to use it, when to use it, how much of it to use, how much to reduce the torque and how not to use it then deal with the law suits that come from misfires and damaged cats.
Some engines have no issues but in the salt belt things can be very different, until you have one that is so stuck you risk breaking it off or pulling the threads you don't know what trouble is doing this simple job.

Used properly its worthwhile using.



Agree.. I just changed the spark plugs in my car a touch of anti seize went on.

 

[benjy]

OE plugs MAY look good but replacing them @ 50 thou in girlfriends 06 1.8T passat netted 2 mpgs + smoother idle!!

 

[dkryan]

Originally Posted by Trav
Did you read your own post?

It is much easier and safer for them to say not to use it rather than going into a long explanation about how to use it, when to use it, how much of it to use, how much to reduce the torque and how not to use it then deal with the law suits that come from misfires and damaged cats.
Some engines have no issues but in the salt belt things can be very different, until you have one that is so stuck you risk breaking it off or pulling the threads you don't know what trouble is doing this simple job.

Used properly its worthwhile using.


Hi Trav,

Thanks for the reply. And yes, I normally read what I write before I actually post, mostly for content, grammar, and spelling.

With that, I also normally read most of your posts because I've come to respect your opinion on automotive matters.

With this being the first change of plugs, I was simply seeking feedback on the condition of the plugs at 87.5k, though I thought it important to note the difference required to remove the third and fourth plug versus the first two.

I'll be sure and post in another 87.5k miles and let you know if I made a mistake in not using anti-seize on the threads.

Cheers!

Doug

 

[dkryan]

Originally Posted by Pelican
Well Done!! If you had waited till you reach 105K they might not have come off without some real help.

I remember a tip a mechanic once gave me and it was to loosen & tighten the plugs around 50K so that you won't have them seize if you go the full length.


Thanks, Pelican.

That's the primary reason I did not want to wait until 105k miles to replace the plugs.

However, if I went to the minor trouble of loosening them at 50k, I would likely just put new ones in. Anti-seize compound notwithstanding. ...Ž

 

[Mad_Hatter]

Old plugs look like they still have life in them (don't know how they gap though??).. either way, it's fairly cheap maintenance and one less thing to worry about moving forward. I'd clean up the old plugs and throw them in a zip loc in the event you have a bad new plug down the road or a failing coil pack ruins a plug or you develop a misfire and wanna swap out a suspected bad plug(s) with a known good one (s).

 

[Trav]

I was half kidding but you made a good point about them being more difficult to remove. When I say engines in the salt belt I should say in colder climates.
Nothing should get past the gasket or tapered seat from above, the issue is with cold starts and lots of moisture in the combustion gases combined with a rich carbon producing fuel mixture, it creeps up the threads from below.

If I am not mistaken this was also the issue with Ford Triton 3v engines. IIRC Ford issued a TSB to use never seize on these engines.
Ford Kent engines were notorious for broken off plugs removing them at low miles/Km. when they were brand new it was beneficial to pull the plugs and use never seize and reinstall to prevent it. Some of the dealers actually did this before delivery to prevent service headaches later.

 

[red7404]

IMHO a little anti-seize compound on the threads works good. but very little, on the threads ONLY.