I am really confused about coolant...

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This spring I plan to change the coolant in the Sedona, as it's due. The OM is very vague as to coolant specification. It states to use an ethylene-glycol coolant compatible with aluminum radiators. Nice, that opens things up quite a bit. I could use a conventional green low-silicate if I wanted to (I'm pretty sure that's what came in the vehicle as OEM). So I was in Walmart today looking at the Prestone all makes coolant, since my van doesn't need anything special. Looking at the ingredients, it has EXACTLY the same ingredients, in the same order, as the Prestone Dex-Cool product on the adjacent shelf, which they charge more for.

My question doesn't really regard brand re-labelling, which I know happens all the time. I'm really wondering if the Dex-Cool stuff (aka Prestone all makes coolant) will work fine with what is in my system now? Or is there something better I should use? Maybe a complete flush with G05?

On a somewhat related note, why the heck can't mfrs come up with standardized specifications for coolant like they do with oil, transmission fluid, etc.? Rant over.
 
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Motul recommends either their Inugel Expert Ultra or Inugel Optimal Ultra for your exact car & motor.


Expert Ultra is:
-Nitrite free / Amine free / Phosphate free

Optimal Ultra is:
-AOT Technology
-Nitrite free / Amine free / Phosphate free / Borate free / Silicate free


I'd just tell you to flush it and run whatever you want, since it doesn't appear to be picky.
 
I also considered calling up my local Kia dealer and asking what they sell, but that might not get me anywhere. Kia/Hyundai have a couple odd fluids (like PSF-3) that have no aftermarket alternative, and in many cases the dealer uses/sells something totally different than the OEM specified fluid. So who knows. I may just call them up to amuse myself.
 
Originally Posted By: Klutch9
I also considered calling up my local Kia dealer and asking what they sell, but that might not get me anywhere. Kia/Hyundai have a couple odd fluids (like PSF-3) that have no aftermarket alternative, and in many cases the dealer uses/sells something totally different than the OEM specified fluid. So who knows. I may just call them up to amuse myself.



That's what they want you to think. There are a lot of OEM fluids that they'll claim are 'specially made for the car'. It's [censored]. You just have to look around -- the trick is to figure out who makes the OEM fluid and just buy the non-OEM version of it for 1/4 the cost.
 
FWIW, I just found an excerpt from the back of a Kia branded bottle of coolant. In summary, it stated that it was "compatible with aluminum" and was "amine, silicate, and borate free". In other words, pretty much any all makes/models coolant on the shelf in any store will meet those criterion and work just fine.
 
One of the most successful marketing strategies of all time is FUD. Fear, Uncertainty and Doubt. Auto manufacturers have used that strategy for a very long time to confuse the consumer so that he decides to play it safe and use the manufacturer branded products, which are more expensive, instead of a generic and less expensive product.

They did the same with oil changes for decades, using fear of voiding the warranty to convince new car owners to go to the dealer for oil changes during the warranty period.

They've created uncertainty and doubt with coolants.

Certainly there are legitimate reasons for different coolants, ATFs, oils, and so on, but it's clear that much of the proliferation of specs is pure FUD.

Knowledge is power. Thank you BITOG.
 
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Are there any replacements or less expensive alternatives for OAT coolant?


What about the Zerex Asian and PGLT?
 
Originally Posted By: Char Baby
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Are there any replacements or less expensive alternatives for OAT coolant?


What about the Zerex Asian and PGLT?


OOPS! Or are these H-OAT's? I may have made a mistake!

My confusion also continues as I have never had any issues with coolants in any vehicle. Though I believe the risk may be higher by not using the OE or OE type coolants, I haven't had the problems in my cooling systems in several hundred thousand miles of using any coolant in any vehicle. I've used regular GREEN in vehicles calling for OE/type and no problems in 200K. But, I guess it can happen!

With the exception of those vehicles that were known for cooling system issues namely, head gasket/intake manifold gasket failures. Then, it didn't matter even when using the recomended coolants, the failures occured anyway!
 
Originally Posted By: Klutch9
. The OM is very vague as to coolant specification. It states to use an ethylene-glycol coolant compatible with aluminum radiators....

Yep, typical vague OM e-g recommendation from many Asian vehicle manufacturers, not just H/K.

You could go with full strength low silicate G-05 with a complete flush. The OEM though in all likelihood is a typical Asian P-HOAT, meaning no silicates, borates, amines, nitrates and no 2eha. The last of which is the active ingredient in DexCool and the universal Dexclones. I wouldn't mix Prestone AM/M with other Asian AF's, only with a complete flush.

The unfortunate thing about the Asian Long Life AF's is they are generally only available as 50-50 premix best suited in diy for simple radiator d&f's, not complete system exchange. If you go simple radiator d&f, shortening the recommended change interval would be appropriate.

As for why manufacturers can't/don't standardize, if you are 'really' interested the two links can provide insight into the thinking.

http://www.motor.com/magazine/pdfs/082010_08.pdf

http://articles.sae.org/11284/
 
You say it is clear but don't go into specifics. Why is it FUD, giving details?

Originally Posted By: KB2008X
One of the most successful marketing strategies of all time is FUD. Fear, Uncertainty and Doubt. Auto manufacturers have used that strategy for a very long time to confuse the consumer so that he decides to play it safe and use the manufacturer branded products, which are more expensive, instead of a generic and less expensive product.

They did the same with oil changes for decades, using fear of voiding the warranty to convince new car owners to go to the dealer for oil changes during the warranty period.

They've created uncertainty and doubt with coolants.

Certainly there are legitimate reasons for different coolants, ATFs, oils, and so on, but it's clear that much of the proliferation of specs is pure FUD.

Knowledge is power. Thank you BITOG.
 
Originally Posted By: kschachn
You say it is clear but don't go into specifics. Why is it FUD, giving details?

Originally Posted By: KB2008X
One of the most successful marketing strategies of all time is FUD. Fear, Uncertainty and Doubt. Auto manufacturers have used that strategy for a very long time to confuse the consumer so that he decides to play it safe and use the manufacturer branded products, which are more expensive, instead of a generic and less expensive product.

They did the same with oil changes for decades, using fear of voiding the warranty to convince new car owners to go to the dealer for oil changes during the warranty period.

They've created uncertainty and doubt with coolants.

Certainly there are legitimate reasons for different coolants, ATFs, oils, and so on, but it's clear that much of the proliferation of specs is pure FUD.

Knowledge is power. Thank you BITOG.




If you've ever owned a German car, you know exactly where he's coming from. I'm on my third, and I can tell you that the majority of owners are terrified of ever taking the car to an indy shop or doing their own work. They think all of the car's fluids are magical and that the car will break down if you do anything other than use an OEM part/fluid.

And then there are those of us who know better.
 
Originally Posted By: Klutch9
This spring I plan to change the coolant in the Sedona, as it's due. The OM is very vague as to coolant specification. It states to use an ethylene-glycol coolant compatible with aluminum radiators.

Kia and Hyundai use a typical Asian coolant: silicate-free phosphated HOAT. That means any of the modern coolants for Japanese and Korean cars would work.

Personally I switched over to G-05 for my Hyundai. Since it was used by Mercedes, Chrysler, Ford, BMW, and Volvo it's readily available.

The low-silicate is no problem for seals and water pumps, and being phosphate-free means topping it off with typical American hard water is not going to cause mineral deposits.
 
Originally Posted By: edwardh1
send an e mail to a major manufacturer like zerex or prestone and ask why they recommend


That was my next step. I thought I'd ask here first.
 
What color is the OEM stuff? I would sometimes run Mitsubishi or Honda green P-OAT in systems that had green P-OAT antifreeze. Beck/Arnely now has that same type of coolant.
 
Originally Posted By: artificialist
What color is the OEM stuff? I would sometimes run Mitsubishi or Honda green P-OAT in systems that had green P-OAT antifreeze. Beck/Arnely now has that same type of coolant.


It's dark green in color, just like the Mazda and Ford stuff, which I believe is all the same formulation essentially. FWIW, it seems that a lot of Kia/Hyundai owners use Zerex Asian, since it seems to be an identical fluid to the OEM stuff... a phosphated HOAT, silicate free.
 
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