how to tell when shocks are worn

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pretty accurate. when i did service writing, i told people that they wouldnt notice bad shocks/struts, until they had them replaced and felt new ones.

usually by about 50k miles for shocks and about 75k for struts they are worn out.
 
quote:

Originally posted by brad_d:
After reading this thread, here's the impression I'm forming of the consensus opinion:
  • Suspension dampers should be replaced routinely on a mileage basis, even in the absence of a perceived performance loss.
  • This is because after enough miles, performance will have suffered but due to its gradual onset the driver won't have noticed.
  • The recommended mileage for this routine replacement of the dampers is not well-defined, or at least opinions vary greatly.
  • Whatever it is, it's under 100,000 miles - possibly well under.

Sound accurate? Comments?


Pretty accurate for most OEM dampers. Not necessarily so for good shocks. The Bilsteins I put on my GMC S-15 at 5,000 miles still work a lot better at 113,000 miles than the crap GM OEM shocks did when they were new.

With good materials and good design a shock absorber can last a long time.

The shocks on my wife's 100k mile Acura TL still work better than the shocks on several low mileage US cars I have rented in the past couple of years.
 
quote:

Originally posted by bdcardinal:
1. you dont have shocks, you have struts.

quote:


That's not what honda says.


fwiw, the term 'strut' is ambiguous. It can refer to the entire strut assembly, or it can be used as short-hand for 'strut insert'.

In any event, it appears that honda refers to the 'strut insert' as a 'shock absorber unit'. Nothing to get dogmatic about...
 
The difference between a shock and a strut is that a strut supports weight whereas a shock does not. I thought this was fairly well known and am surprised that Honda would misuse the terms.
 
"I thought this was fairly well known..."

the problem is with the ambiguity of language. there is no lack of knowledge on honda's part.
 
quote:

Originally posted by Matt_S:
The difference between a shock and a strut is that a strut supports weight whereas a shock does not. I thought this was fairly well known and am surprised that Honda would misuse the terms.

That's why I just call 'em "dampers", as the British do. The business end of both these species, and that which defines their fitness, do the exact same thing.
wink.gif
 
KYB GR2's and Gabriel's from Autozone were the exact same strut - at least a year ago when I purchased a set of both of them.

They were both made in at the same plant in Mexico. There was two differences.

1. Price - the Gabriels were less cost.
2. A cheap cheezy sticker was slapped on the side of the strut that said KYB.

Also, a different colored box but otherwise they were the same strut.
 
quote:

Originally posted by Cressida:
KYB GR2's and Gabriel's from Autozone were the exact same strut - at least a year ago when I purchased a set of both of them.

They were both made in at the same plant in Mexico. There was two differences.

1. Price - the Gabriels were less cost.
2. A cheap cheezy sticker was slapped on the side of the strut that said KYB.

Also, a different colored box but otherwise they were the same strut.


Did you dyno test them or take them apart and carefully inspect and measure all the internal componants to determine that?

[ June 17, 2006, 06:30 PM: Message edited by: XS650 ]
 
How bad would it be to keep bad suspension components in a car other than a reduction in handling, more/abnormal tire wear, and decreased riding comfort?
 
^ one interesting question I think...

My humble observation is that well designed suspension systems doesn't vary vaguely from a used shock to a new or between brand A tire and B. Sure a sensible driver should feel the difference; but when there is "lack of suspension design" a world-of-difference is there.

Basically suspension should suspend the car. Dynamics (and the harmonics) should be balanced at the widest possible spectrum, preferably kinematics should use the physics and not fight against it. If this could be achieved with enough loops of engineering (re)design and via inherent qualities of the kinematics then you don't have to rely on one continiously-deteriorating shock too much.

Even more basically, handing out any systems reliability to a telescoping gismo signals lack of kinematics from the begining. It should stay as a "helper" at all costs.
 
quote:

Originally posted by MN Driver:
How bad would it be to keep bad suspension components in a car other than a reduction in handling, more/abnormal tire wear, and decreased riding comfort?

I'd like to know as well.. I dont think my shocks/struts/dampers are worn yet, but i bet within the next 50k or so they will. I dont mind a harsher ride, i mean its probably very expensive to get all 4 replaced.. I dont usually go anywhere but honda for major service, but i'd imagine least 4 hours by their book, @ $85 per hour labor.. Probably over $500 with parts.
gr_eek2.gif
 
quote:

Originally posted by Cressida:
KYB GR2's and Gabriel's from Autozone were the exact same strut - at least a year ago when I purchased a set of both of them.

They're not all like that though. I just put a pair of KYB GR2 struts on my Pathfinder. They are made in Japan and appear to be identical to the original Nissan-branded KYBs that came off.
 
it was easy to tell the shocks on my van were worn out when i got it.tops were rusting away and contained waspnests!
they offered no resistance in either direction when i removed them.made a big difference in the ride.
 
quote:

Originally posted by sxg6:

quote:

Originally posted by MN Driver:
How bad would it be to keep bad suspension components in a car other than a reduction in handling, more/abnormal tire wear, and decreased riding comfort?

I'd like to know as well.. I dont think my shocks/struts/dampers are worn yet, but i bet within the next 50k or so they will. I dont mind a harsher ride, i mean its probably very expensive to get all 4 replaced.. I dont usually go anywhere but honda for major service, but i'd imagine least 4 hours by their book, @ $85 per hour labor.. Probably over $500 with parts.
gr_eek2.gif


I am having my rears done, est. of 530 dollars at the Honda Dealer.
 
DIY - I had replaced my starter before, but never done anything as big as a timing belt job/etc, but I replaced my four struts, front strut mounts and bearings and both complete lower control arm assemblys for half of what it would have cost to have just the struts replaced.

Basic hand tools (no air) and a strut compressor (rent for free) and save yourself a lot of money. Its really not that hard at all.

Don't forget an alignment afterwards.
 
struts arent that difficult. however, having done struts in a shop with a proper spring compressor, i refuse to ever use a hand held one. especially after having a hand held one that was properly installed slip and shoot a compressed spring into my knee.

certain cars, mainly toyotas, require specific alignment of the strut in the strut mount. if yo udont get it lined up perfectly you will get a clunk immediately that results in a destroyed strut mount in about 10 miles.
 
By the way, do mechanics put grease on the strut/shock and spring when compressing them? I had one difficult one (don't ask, the hand tools from Craftsman I got wouldn't fit or clear my Integra's front spring with the dust cover). I notice when I got it back it is all covered in dark greasy fluid not only on the shock but also on the dust cover and spring.
 
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