How to remove tiny harness pin?

[JHZR2]

Can you find a brand symbol on the connector? If so, that narrows down which contacts were specifically designed for it.

From one of your pics, looks a lot like the contact itself has a metal spring tab on the back, but is bent in, in the picture which is common upon removal, so would need a stiff enough pin stuck in the smaller hole next to the contact hole, push the wire end into the back of the socket as much as possible and hold it there to give the spring tab some slack so it doesn't catch on the plastic of the connector shell, while levering the bottom of the pin in the hole, towards the contact to retract that.

If there is a lot of corrosion, it could be keeping the tab from springing backwards. In that case, I'd flush it with a mild acid (only in that one hole) trying to dissolve that, figuring if it's corrosion then the contact is probably done for anyway and you just want to get it out and buy a new contact.

Maybe a picture example, this looks like the position of the tab I'm thinking of when it's latched into the socket before removal, so it needs bent back to where it is in your equivalent pic:


View attachment 144537

Did you draw that tab further back like that? Or is that some other different picture? Mine isn’t like that. The black wire is a good female fitting.

All of them are corrosion free from what I can see. I plugged in replacement amps and jumpered 12v constant, and the stereo works beautifully. The sound in these cars is very good as far as Im concerned.

Now it’s just a matter of a “good enough” replacement pin.

This isn’t the only MB class that seems to get moisture in the amp connections. Weird…

 

[Dave9]

Yes I took your picture, zoomed in and photoshopped the tab like it would be extended to catch on the connector plastic. Is or isn't there a tab that's stamped into the contact but just about flush with the body of the contact in your picture?

I realize the black wire was good, but when you press in a spring tab on a contact like that in order to remove it from the connector shell, it is typical for it to stay bent in more than how it started out new, then when you want to reinstall it in the connector shell, it may have to be manually bent back out a little to catch on the connector shell again... carefully, they often can't be bent too many times before they break off.

A better pic of that side of the connector contact might help.

Since it is a friction contact, it might help a bit to use some dielectric grease on them... and/or figure out what's going on, if you have a leak somewhere letting water in or winter snow moisture is accumulating inside, tracked in from footwear, etc.