How to install a bypass filter on a Honda 4-wheeler?
- Thread starter oldman
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It has a pressure sender, doesn't it? I would think that you would do it the same as any other engine that taps off of the sender.
I will look for the oil sending unit tomorrow. The crankcase only holds two quarts of oil.
1) I wonder if I will be able to completely bypass the FF filter all together and send everything through the TP?
2) Since the engine only holds two quarts I wonder if it is necessary to use the 1/16" restrictor orifice on the bypass filter?
1) I wonder if I will be able to completely bypass the FF filter all together and send everything through the TP?
2) Since the engine only holds two quarts I wonder if it is necessary to use the 1/16" restrictor orifice on the bypass filter?
Has anyone done this? I have a Honda four wheeler and would like to install a bypass filter on it. It is a 1992 300 Fourtrax w/the small oil filter on the side of the engine. Anyone have any suggestions?
I don't think you will find a pressure sender...Most Honda bike engines use a roller bearing crank and very low oil pressure. Not enough pressure to push the oil through a tight filter..
You could have a machine shop make a special adapter plate to replace the stock oil filter, but why? That engine will run forever just the way it is..
You could have a machine shop make a special adapter plate to replace the stock oil filter, but why? That engine will run forever just the way it is..
msparks,
Where did you get that oil collar cooler that goes around your bypass filter? There is a company out there that's called Cool Collar that makes a cooler that goes on the outside of a filter. They have a hose clamp that goes on the outside of their's that is kind of an eyesore though.
Nevermind, I read your description that states it's a Cool Collar brand. How did you get the collar to stay on w/o the clamp?
Where did you get that oil collar cooler that goes around your bypass filter? There is a company out there that's called Cool Collar that makes a cooler that goes on the outside of a filter. They have a hose clamp that goes on the outside of their's that is kind of an eyesore though.
Nevermind, I read your description that states it's a Cool Collar brand. How did you get the collar to stay on w/o the clamp?
As many years of experience as I have I have only installed one filter on a Motor Cycle and it was my own. It was a Honda 500 custom with the V twin. It had the canister oil filter with the little make believe cartridge. I pulled off the canister and presto I had a sealing surface the same as a Chevy V8. I dug around in the shop and found a full flow filter nipple that screwed into the engine in place of the center bolt. There it was only a matter of installing a sandwich adapter that fit. I was selling the Frantz at the time and hung it upside down back by the saddle bags. The Perma-Cool adapter works better than the old Frantz two port adapters because of the spring relief valve. Small engines sometimes don't have enough oil flow to heat up the Frantz or Motor Guard. With the Perma-Cool adapter it doesn't matter. The spring holds a slight pressure on the bypass filter. Most of the little engines with full flow filters like the 20 HP Kohlers take a Ford full flow filters. I hooked up the little generator in the conventional way because the adapter added too much length to the filter. I didn't want to cut the frame.
About 40 years ago there was a motorcycle club in the San Jose California area called the Ridge Runners. One member was a genius. They had Frantz oil cleaners bolted to the foot board. I still have a picture of one on a pan head. I have three unwashed Harly owners that work where I work. I notice they have little spin on filters on the newer ones. The orifice is so that all the oil won't go thru the filter instead of the engine. If you use the sandwich adapter you don't need the orifice because the filter won't be pullng oil off the system. If you can it is best to leave the full flow filter where it is and run hoses to the bypass filter. The full flow filter is insurance against anything large that might get in the oil. Something large can do a lot of damage before the slow filtering Motor Guard can get it out. When tapping oil off the sender on a small engine it might be best to install a sintered bronze secondary filter at the outlet then a very small orifice such as 30 thousands.
Ralph
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Does it share a filter with a larger engine? Is there a non-proprietory/OEM filter available for it? If so ...type it into the Wix or Baldwin filter X-reference applets and see what the thread and gasket diameter is. Then you can see if an adapter is available for it.
Either way, Ralph should be able to hook you up if you like the economy and fine filtration of TP.
Amsoil also has a cheaper bypass mount that has a .030 restrictor on it. That can be tapped to your sender and not tax any flow. You only need to figure out how to return it to the pan. I would think that you could buy an extra oil plug and drill and tap it to attach your fittings.
Here is a pic of the filter:
As you can see, it's a canister filter. In order to change out the filter I have to remove a small cover on the side of the engine and place the filter in the recessed hole on the engine block and put the cover back on. There is a small, black metal line that runs on the outside of the engine block that goes to the filter cover. Thing is, I'm not sure if that's the pressure source or the after-filtered oil (I think it's the after filtered oil). The line is pretty small in diameter, which kind of concerns me to some degree.
I don't know if a TP type of filter would be "too much" for a small engine like this or not?
[ January 07, 2005, 11:59 PM: Message edited by: Go_Hogs_Go ]
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Well, most oil flow through the filter is from outside to the interior ..with very few exceptions. If that line attaches to the shell ..it is probably the supply.
You do have an oil indicator light/gauge don't you? This would be a decent source to tap into. The return can go a number of places.
The neat thing about a tp filter is that once you get it installed you probably won't have to buy any more canister filters.
Go ask a dealer wrench where that line comes from/goes to.
You do have an oil indicator light/gauge don't you? This would be a decent source to tap into. The return can go a number of places.
The neat thing about a tp filter is that once you get it installed you probably won't have to buy any more canister filters.
Go ask a dealer wrench where that line comes from/goes to.
The filter you show looks just like the one in my 2001 Honda Rancher 4x4. Appears they have not changed much.
I don't know where you can mount a bypass on these ATV. There is little room for anything and finding a safe place is near impossible. Only place on mine would be up front behind lights but the Warn winch in there.
I doubt it is cost effective.
I don't know where you can mount a bypass on these ATV. There is little room for anything and finding a safe place is near impossible. Only place on mine would be up front behind lights but the Warn winch in there.
I doubt it is cost effective.
If I see a little spin on filter on a little engine it is usually the same thread size and gasket size as a Ford or Toyota. A sandwich adapter will usually fit. On the 500 Honda I had a Motor Craft FL 1 A sticking straight out toward the front wheel. A shorter filter such as a FL 173 A would have looked a little less strange. I was lucky that I could convert it from canister to spin on. I used a Frantz Chevy V8 adapter plate. On the Honda the oil system can handle the parasitic loss of the submicronic bypass filter. It is always better to use the sandwich adapter for small engines because they don't pull oil off the system, they divert the oil thru the Motor Guard then to the full flow filter. All oil has to go thru the full flow filter to get to the engine. The Frantz two port adapter depended on flow thru the adapter to create a pressure differential to make the filter heat up.
I am not familiar with the engine you mention. If you can tap into a high pressure point and return the oil to the sump you can make it work in the conventional way. You might have to experiment with a pressure gauge and a smaller orifice. There have been some full flow filters get blown off because someone tried to put a 20 mm filter on a 3/4" nipple. If a 3/4" open wrench won't go over the nipple it is a 20 mm or larger.
Ralph
I am not familiar with the engine you mention. If you can tap into a high pressure point and return the oil to the sump you can make it work in the conventional way. You might have to experiment with a pressure gauge and a smaller orifice. There have been some full flow filters get blown off because someone tried to put a 20 mm filter on a 3/4" nipple. If a 3/4" open wrench won't go over the nipple it is a 20 mm or larger.
Ralph
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