JTK
$100 Site Donor 2025
I hear you. The only time I've tried suck-outs is on tillers and whatnot with awkward oil drain locations. Still wound-up using the awkward and messy drains anyway. LOL!
How to drain oil on B&S mower engine?
- Thread starter The_Nuke
- Start date
- Status
Although my Toro mower has a Tecumseh, I've been tipping it over for years to change the oil. Never had any kind of issue.
I understand the need to drain the oil while the engine is still "warm" - the oil will flow better and thus drain quicker and more completely.
But how warm is warm enough?
Does it need to have been running within the last 10-15 min?
What if ambient outside temp is 90+, is that warm enough?
I ran it out of gas this morning in anticipation of having to turn it over to drain the oil, but that was several hours ago now. If I have to start it and run it a while for it to get warm enough to drain the oil, I will have to put more gas in and then run it until it runs out of gas again...just hoping to avoid all that if at all possible.
But how warm is warm enough?
Does it need to have been running within the last 10-15 min?
What if ambient outside temp is 90+, is that warm enough?
I ran it out of gas this morning in anticipation of having to turn it over to drain the oil, but that was several hours ago now. If I have to start it and run it a while for it to get warm enough to drain the oil, I will have to put more gas in and then run it until it runs out of gas again...just hoping to avoid all that if at all possible.
Originally Posted By: bubbatime
Laughing at all the "suck it out" recommendations. LMAO. Just tip the freaking mower over. It's free and works better.
This coming from a guy that does about 200 oil changes per year on lawn mowers. There really isn't a simpler, more effective way.
This. Those cheap pumps seem to make more of a mess anyway. I tried one once to drain old 2 cycle oil out of a dirt bike (separate tanks) that had sat for a few years and it just made a giant mess. Tipping the mower over is so much easier.
Laughing at all the "suck it out" recommendations. LMAO. Just tip the freaking mower over. It's free and works better.
This coming from a guy that does about 200 oil changes per year on lawn mowers. There really isn't a simpler, more effective way.
This. Those cheap pumps seem to make more of a mess anyway. I tried one once to drain old 2 cycle oil out of a dirt bike (separate tanks) that had sat for a few years and it just made a giant mess. Tipping the mower over is so much easier.
JTK
$100 Site Donor 2025
Originally Posted By: The_Nuke
I understand the need to drain the oil while the engine is still "warm" - the oil will flow better and thus drain quicker and more completely.
But how warm is warm enough?
Does it need to have been running within the last 10-15 min?
What if ambient outside temp is 90+, is that warm enough?
I ran it out of gas this morning in anticipation of having to turn it over to drain the oil, but that was several hours ago now. If I have to start it and run it a while for it to get warm enough to drain the oil, I will have to put more gas in and then run it until it runs out of gas again...just hoping to avoid all that if at all possible.
Nuke, it doesn't have to be warm. Just get your drain pan ready, pull the oil fill plug and flip it over into the pan.
I understand the need to drain the oil while the engine is still "warm" - the oil will flow better and thus drain quicker and more completely.
But how warm is warm enough?
Does it need to have been running within the last 10-15 min?
What if ambient outside temp is 90+, is that warm enough?
I ran it out of gas this morning in anticipation of having to turn it over to drain the oil, but that was several hours ago now. If I have to start it and run it a while for it to get warm enough to drain the oil, I will have to put more gas in and then run it until it runs out of gas again...just hoping to avoid all that if at all possible.
Nuke, it doesn't have to be warm. Just get your drain pan ready, pull the oil fill plug and flip it over into the pan.
I prefer to change mine between the front and the back yard.
If I just flip it, it comes out "stripey", meaning that there's something (moisture, debris, dirt ?) not mixed in the bulk.
Between yards, it comes out consistant in colour.
I have a brick under the front wheel so that the fill tube is the lowest point.
If I just flip it, it comes out "stripey", meaning that there's something (moisture, debris, dirt ?) not mixed in the bulk.
Between yards, it comes out consistant in colour.
I have a brick under the front wheel so that the fill tube is the lowest point.
Originally Posted By: JTK
Originally Posted By: The_Nuke
I understand the need to drain the oil while the engine is still "warm" - the oil will flow better and thus drain quicker and more completely.
But how warm is warm enough?
Does it need to have been running within the last 10-15 min?
What if ambient outside temp is 90+, is that warm enough?
I ran it out of gas this morning in anticipation of having to turn it over to drain the oil, but that was several hours ago now. If I have to start it and run it a while for it to get warm enough to drain the oil, I will have to put more gas in and then run it until it runs out of gas again...just hoping to avoid all that if at all possible.
Nuke, it doesn't have to be warm. Just get your drain pan ready, pull the oil fill plug and flip it over into the pan.
drain pan? nobody said anything about needing a drain pan...I figured I'd just use the storm drain in the curb out in front of my house.
just kidding of course, I would never do that...not in front of my own house, I always use the neighbor's for something like that!
Originally Posted By: The_Nuke
I understand the need to drain the oil while the engine is still "warm" - the oil will flow better and thus drain quicker and more completely.
But how warm is warm enough?
Does it need to have been running within the last 10-15 min?
What if ambient outside temp is 90+, is that warm enough?
I ran it out of gas this morning in anticipation of having to turn it over to drain the oil, but that was several hours ago now. If I have to start it and run it a while for it to get warm enough to drain the oil, I will have to put more gas in and then run it until it runs out of gas again...just hoping to avoid all that if at all possible.
Nuke, it doesn't have to be warm. Just get your drain pan ready, pull the oil fill plug and flip it over into the pan.
drain pan? nobody said anything about needing a drain pan...I figured I'd just use the storm drain in the curb out in front of my house.
just kidding of course, I would never do that...not in front of my own house, I always use the neighbor's for something like that!
Originally Posted By: jeepman3071
Originally Posted By: bubbatime
Laughing at all the "suck it out" recommendations. LMAO. Just tip the freaking mower over. It's free and works better.
This coming from a guy that does about 200 oil changes per year on lawn mowers. There really isn't a simpler, more effective way.
This. Those cheap pumps seem to make more of a mess anyway. I tried one once to drain old 2 cycle oil out of a dirt bike (separate tanks) that had sat for a few years and it just made a giant mess. Tipping the mower over is so much easier.
*** Big +1
JP
Originally Posted By: bubbatime
Laughing at all the "suck it out" recommendations. LMAO. Just tip the freaking mower over. It's free and works better.
This coming from a guy that does about 200 oil changes per year on lawn mowers. There really isn't a simpler, more effective way.
This. Those cheap pumps seem to make more of a mess anyway. I tried one once to drain old 2 cycle oil out of a dirt bike (separate tanks) that had sat for a few years and it just made a giant mess. Tipping the mower over is so much easier.
*** Big +1
JP
Originally Posted By: bubbatime
Laughing at all the "suck it out" recommendations. LMAO. Just tip the freaking mower over. It's free and works better.
This coming from a guy that does about 200 oil changes per year on lawn mowers. There really isn't a simpler, more effective way.
Easiest way to do it.
Laughing at all the "suck it out" recommendations. LMAO. Just tip the freaking mower over. It's free and works better.
This coming from a guy that does about 200 oil changes per year on lawn mowers. There really isn't a simpler, more effective way.
Easiest way to do it.
Jeeppers 3 pages on a little B&S. Tip the thing on its side and darin the oil out the dip tube! I have three cement steps at the front walk - I put the mower on the top step and the drain pan on the last.
Tips: Little to No gas in the tank
The thing takes less than one Qt of oil - DO NOT OVERFILL!!!
Tips: Little to No gas in the tank
The thing takes less than one Qt of oil - DO NOT OVERFILL!!!
I have a Motive fluid extractor I got on amazon for $54. It works on everything. I use it on all of my OPE engines, PS reservoirs, transmissions, coolant bottles, fuel tanks, brake master cylinders...you name it.
One of the best tools to have.
Mityvac also makes a good one.
One of the best tools to have.
Mityvac also makes a good one.
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: CharlieJ
YouTube is your friend...
The 2G connection speed of my Blackberry phone disapproves of friends like that...in fact it disapproves of most every website out there, but I'm sure it's doing it for my own good.
YouTube is your friend...
The 2G connection speed of my Blackberry phone disapproves of friends like that...in fact it disapproves of most every website out there, but I'm sure it's doing it for my own good.
I always change the oil at the beginning of the mowing season. Normally I mow with it until it runs out of gas then drain the freshly churned oil.
The gas cap on our B&S never really was leak proof so its just easier to let it run out of gas. Always top the oil off if necessary though.
The gas cap on our B&S never really was leak proof so its just easier to let it run out of gas. Always top the oil off if necessary though.
Just pilfer the pump dispenser off of your wife's shampoo bottle in the shower. Pump out old oil and put the pump back before she gets home. Problem solved!
But seriously, I do have two old bottle pumps from just that that I use for power steering and brake fluid reservoir extraction. They work well for small capacities.
But seriously, I do have two old bottle pumps from just that that I use for power steering and brake fluid reservoir extraction. They work well for small capacities.
Thanks for tip. I just tip them over and I have an old turkey baster for draining reservoirs.
Well, I got the oil drained and refilled and the mower runs fine now. So "thanks" to everyone for helping educate me. But now I am beginning to wonder if I erred in my choice of oils.
The owner's manual recommended the B&G brand oil (of course), and also listed out some specs for the oil to meet should the B&G brand not be used.
They weren't anything special, in fact it would be hard to find a motor oil that did not meet the specs. As such, I just grabbed a bottle of house brand SAE 30 motor oil from a local Wal-Mart.
But I have since seen that there is a whole separate line of engine oils for the 4 cycle small engines, and it is packaged, labeled, and priced differently than the motor oils in the automotive section.
Should I have used one of the oils designated for 4 cycle small engines?
And if so, is it safe to run the regular engine oil in there now for the rest of the summer and then change it, or should I immediately change it out for the other stuff before running the engine again?
The owner's manual recommended the B&G brand oil (of course), and also listed out some specs for the oil to meet should the B&G brand not be used.
They weren't anything special, in fact it would be hard to find a motor oil that did not meet the specs. As such, I just grabbed a bottle of house brand SAE 30 motor oil from a local Wal-Mart.
But I have since seen that there is a whole separate line of engine oils for the 4 cycle small engines, and it is packaged, labeled, and priced differently than the motor oils in the automotive section.
Should I have used one of the oils designated for 4 cycle small engines?
And if so, is it safe to run the regular engine oil in there now for the rest of the summer and then change it, or should I immediately change it out for the other stuff before running the engine again?
Any straight 30 oil is just fine in these B&S engines. No worries.
Originally Posted By: The_Nuke
As such, I just grabbed a bottle of house brand SAE 30 motor oil from a local Wal-Mart.
House brand oil is just fine for a lawn mower, as long as it is detergent oil and not SA non-detergent oil. As I stated earlier, I run a small engine shop and do tons of lawn mower oil changes. I've literally used hundreds of gallons of Supertech or Ace Hardware oil (when it goes on sale for $1.99) when the customer has no oil preference. I also keep Pennzoil, Valvoline, Quaker State, and Mobil 1 in stock for customers that request it.
Originally Posted By: The_Nuke
But I have since seen that there is a whole separate line of engine oils for the 4 cycle small engines, and it is packaged, labeled, and priced differently than the motor oils in the automotive section.
Should I have used one of the oils designated for 4 cycle small engines?
Regular motor oil is 4 cycle oil. That is called marketing, and they charge more for it. The additive package might be slightly different, but I highly doubt your engine will notice the difference. Just the fact that you are giving it regular oil changes is better than what 90% of the small engines out there get.
As such, I just grabbed a bottle of house brand SAE 30 motor oil from a local Wal-Mart.
House brand oil is just fine for a lawn mower, as long as it is detergent oil and not SA non-detergent oil. As I stated earlier, I run a small engine shop and do tons of lawn mower oil changes. I've literally used hundreds of gallons of Supertech or Ace Hardware oil (when it goes on sale for $1.99) when the customer has no oil preference. I also keep Pennzoil, Valvoline, Quaker State, and Mobil 1 in stock for customers that request it.
Originally Posted By: The_Nuke
But I have since seen that there is a whole separate line of engine oils for the 4 cycle small engines, and it is packaged, labeled, and priced differently than the motor oils in the automotive section.
Should I have used one of the oils designated for 4 cycle small engines?
Regular motor oil is 4 cycle oil. That is called marketing, and they charge more for it. The additive package might be slightly different, but I highly doubt your engine will notice the difference. Just the fact that you are giving it regular oil changes is better than what 90% of the small engines out there get.
Originally Posted By: Quattro Pete
Any straight 30 oil is just fine in these B&S engines. No worries.
good deal, thanks!
Any straight 30 oil is just fine in these B&S engines. No worries.
good deal, thanks!
- Status
