How to correct these swirls?

I'm no expert . My experience with custom paint guys n the Harley shop . 3m glaze is used on fresh paint before customer arrives. They use polish to polish the paint. I was told the 3m glaze is full of oils and washes off. That's why it's applied after the polish.
 
Thanks! I think the pictures are fairly representative of how the paint looks in person. I'm sure if you shined a brighter light at the perfect angle it might look slightly worse, but I took these pictures very quickly in natural daylight.

There are no real water spots or oxidation, just these very light swirls or spiderwebbing. Nothing bad, but it just doesn't quite have that new car "pop" anymore.

The truck is kept outside and it does see winter driving action, so I try to stay on top of washing and waxing regularly. I plan to keep it as long as realistically possible, so I definitely want to keep the paint nice.

Spider webbing may be a better description. I'm not a detailer by any means, so I'm not 100% up on the terminology. Would the 3M Perfect-It Machine Glaze I have work well for what you are describing?
Yeah it'll help but doesn't cut or polish as much as a mid or hi cut polish but will give some of the "pop" back to the finish.
 
I cannot read all the posts, but if you have a bauer DA, throw any of the harbor freight pads away in the trash or cut them into rectangles to wash your dishes. They are total junk.

3D One compound is a no bs, no marketing gimick product that starts off medium cut, and has diminishing abrasives that become a fine polish. If you use and orange medium pad, I think you can get a total correction on one step. This is how I do mine and it worked perfect. If it does not come out perfect (which I think it will) switch to a finishing pad and use ACA 520.

I cannot find a better combo anywhere. Menzerna also makes great stuff but more expensive.
 
Well, looks like I might not have to polish some of this stuff. We had a bad hailstorm today and the hood and roof got damaged. Lots of very small dings.

So I'm gonna have to make an insurance claim tomorrow morning. We'll see how the body shop/insurance adjuster wants to address this. PDR would be preferable, but with so many, it might not be worth it.
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I used 3D Speed on a finish that had no love for 15 years. When I was through the finish looked new. I also used an old clay mitt on it when I washed it.
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I cant even think of any words to describe that detail job except for one. WoW!

That has got to be one of the finest looking detail finish jobs I have ever seen. Especially with a paint color that is usually one of the toughest most difficult to keep looking "like new!" Congrats.
 
To be honest, if the pics are as accurate as you say, then personally - I wouldn't even think of a heavy polish or an aggressive pad. Those marks you are seeing aren't worth going after and removing the paint to make them "go away."

3800Series has a good point about paints being thinner and softer. To "remove" defects, you are actually removing a level of paint past the bottom of the defect and making the overall paint thinner, and more prone to premature failure the more paint you remove.

Personally, I would learn to live with them. If you're only seeing them on up close examination - stop looking at the paint so closely. You say you want to keep the car basically forever ... so why risk damaging the paint, when it's the single most expensive part of the whole car?

My last Camaro was black, my current one is deep blue ... both cars had marring similar to what you're showing and I had to make a choice ... Forever go for "perfect" paint and have it fail years before its time, OR Enjoy the fact that NO ONE but me (or a detailer) will EVER even notice the marks - even if you point them out, and from 4 feet away, the car LOOKS perfect.
 
I cant even think of any words to describe that detail job except for one. WoW!

That has got to be one of the finest looking detail finish jobs I have ever seen. Especially with a paint color that is usually one of the toughest most difficult to keep looking "like new!" Congrats.
That car finish was pretty awful and gritty when I got it. The car sat in the weather all it's life and had not been washed in a couple years. It was a spare beater. Dull and flat but no clear coat delamination. The clay mitt did a great job making it smooth. The 3D really brought it out. The whole job only took 3 hours. It was gifted to my granddaughter.
 
That car finish was pretty awful and gritty when I got it. The car sat in the weather all it's life and had not been washed in a couple years. It was a spare beater. Dull and flat but no clear coat delamination. The clay mitt did a great job making it smooth. The 3D really brought it out. The whole job only took 3 hours. It was gifted to my granddaughter.

The coat of daily dust , grime etc.... likely saved the paint job. I have seen it happen. But that was only a very few times when a paint job was thought to be 100% ruined after being left out unprepared and not properly stored or covered. They were saved thru some extra hard work. Can not say they looked as good as what you accomplished. Darker paints can be pretty tough to keep up with or rescue. If I ever get another classic or muscle car I will sure look for one either white or a light color.

Truly hope the granddaughter realizes what was done for her and appreciates it while maybe even taking good care of it.

Again , IMO that is one awesome job you accomplished. (y) It looks so good I would have sworn you used a finishing "glaze." We used to do a "glaze" treatment at the car shows just prior to the judges coming around. Really made them pop & stand out.
 
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