How to correct these swirls?

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May 31, 2024
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My 2015 F-150 is now 10 years old and has gotten swirls in the paint over that time. The paint is original and I've washed and waxed it regularly as long as I've had it, but swirls happen. Now that spring is here, I'd like to try to correct this paint some. I have a Harbor Freight Bauer 6" DA polisher that I've used on some other cars with great results.

I'm not sure what products to use on this truck. Obviously it needs washed, and clayed first. I have Meguiars 105 and 205 and 3M 33039 Perfect-It 1 step. I'm also not sure what pads to use on the DA.

Here's some pictures of what I'm working with. Nothing awful, but there are definitely swirls. Any suggestions?
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I pretty much just use my Urofiber 50/50 pads for almost everything at this point. The can run hot so keep your air compressor going and just keep blowing them out, esp if you're using Meg 205 which is pretty dusty. Those are pretty light scratches from the looks of it so you should be able to knock that flat no prob.
 
I pretty much just use my Urofiber 50/50 pads for almost everything at this point. The can run hot so keep your air compressor going and just keep blowing them out, esp if you're using Meg 205 which is pretty dusty. Those are pretty light scratches from the looks of it so you should be able to knock that flat no prob.
Is there a better 1 step polish that would work well for this?
 
If you truly want to remove the swirls a one step will make it hard to tell as they have fillers like applying a wax. It will hide the scratches temporarily.

I'd be more inclined to use a finishing polish and a softer pad.
 
If 3d is not available and you need something today. TW ceramic polish and wax is amazing on black with a da. I bet it has a lot of fillers. Maybe Mcbeem5 will comment. Great on Harley black.
 
If 3d is not available and you need something today. TW ceramic polish and wax is amazing on black with a da. I bet it has a lot of fillers. Maybe Mcbeem5 will comment. Great on Harley black.
Are you referring to this one? I have an almost new bottle of it that I got on clearance.
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Here's the products I have. Not sure if any of them will work (well) for this application, but if I can use them, great. But if the Rupes United and 3D speed are the hands down the best, I'll go that route. This truck has a LOT of surface area and I don't want to make this any more laborious than it needs to be.
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From my point of view behind the monitor the paint looks pretty good, I would say if the photos are a good representation and it's only light swirls I would skip all in ones and go straight to a polish with light cut like Koch-Chemie Micro Cut, or CARPRO Reflect High Gloss. I don't see any visible water spots, or a hint of oxidation so really I don't see the need to remove much clear coat.

This vehicle is close to the range when water based clear coats became the norm and they are typically very soft and not too thick. I would go with a CARPRO Gloss Pad, and maybe or maybe RUPES D-A Fine if the paint is less sensitive. Great work on keeping the paint in such good condition, I'm sure a nice polish will really make that paint pop.
 
My 2015 F-150 is now 10 years old and has gotten swirls in the paint over that time. The paint is original and I've washed and waxed it regularly as long as I've had it, but swirls happen. Now that spring is here, I'd like to try to correct this paint some. I have a Harbor Freight Bauer 6" DA polisher that I've used on some other cars with great results.

I'm not sure what products to use on this truck. Obviously it needs washed, and clayed first. I have Meguiars 105 and 205 and 3M 33039 Perfect-It 1 step. I'm also not sure what pads to use on the DA.

Here's some pictures of what I'm working with. Nothing awful, but there are definitely swirls. Any suggestions?
View attachment 271334View attachment 271335View attachment 271336View attachment 271337
I think they call that "spider webbing " as it doesn't look bad. When I detailed vehicles regularly for people I first. 1) a good wash with half car soap half dawn to strip down any wax. 2) clay bar to pull contamination out of the paint. My Porter Cable I'd start with a Meguires medium cut polish pad with a medium cut polish and go from there. Then step to mild polish pad with medium or mild polish. I then like to go to a machine glaze then wax or synthetic sealant which usually lasts longer. It'll be a pain at first but worth it in the end.
 
From my point of view behind the monitor the paint looks pretty good, I would say if the photos are a good representation and it's only light swirls I would skip all in ones and go straight to a polish with light cut like Koch-Chemie Micro Cut, or CARPRO Reflect High Gloss. I don't see any visible water spots, or a hint of oxidation so really I don't see the need to remove much clear coat.

This vehicle is close to the range when water based clear coats became the norm and they are typically very soft and not too thick. I would go with a CARPRO Gloss Pad, and maybe or maybe RUPES D-A Fine if the paint is less sensitive. Great work on keeping the paint in such good condition, I'm sure a nice polish will really make that paint pop.
Thanks! I think the pictures are fairly representative of how the paint looks in person. I'm sure if you shined a brighter light at the perfect angle it might look slightly worse, but I took these pictures very quickly in natural daylight.

There are no real water spots or oxidation, just these very light swirls or spiderwebbing. Nothing bad, but it just doesn't quite have that new car "pop" anymore.

The truck is kept outside and it does see winter driving action, so I try to stay on top of washing and waxing regularly. I plan to keep it as long as realistically possible, so I definitely want to keep the paint nice.
I think they call that "spider webbing " as it doesn't look bad. When I detailed vehicles regularly for people I first. 1) a good wash with half car soap half dawn to strip down any wax. 2) clay bar to pull contamination out of the paint. My Porter Cable I'd start with a Meguires medium cut polish pad with a medium cut polish and go from there. Then step to mild polish pad with medium or mild polish. I then like to go to a machine glaze then wax or synthetic sealant which usually lasts longer. It'll be a pain at first but worth it in the end.
Spider webbing may be a better description. I'm not a detailer by any means, so I'm not 100% up on the terminology. Would the 3M Perfect-It Machine Glaze I have work well for what you are describing?
 
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