How to break threadlocker? Procedure? help?

[Rand]

Any idea on how to break the threadlocker on my rear diff? its a 13mm square drive plug (not 1/2") I already dinged it up trying to get it out. I was thinking grabbing my ir thermometer and heating it up to about 300degrees gently with a propane torch. gently letting it heat soak for a min or two with light heat then trying it? Will that unset the threadlocker? So far i was hanging midair on a 2ft cheater bar and it didnt budge.. the impact boogered up the one edge a tiny bit before I realized it wasnt turning. I was afraid I would break the housing so I gave up on it last month.

 

[Xlr8r1]

Heat...

 

[229]

Yes, heat.

 

[doitmyself]

The tech. sheet for Permatex Red suggests heating it to 450F to disassemble. http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/71h9v556B8S.pdf Often times, a lesser amount of heat will work. As you are probably aware, the blue formula is more appropriate for your application. I wonder if it was just severely overtightened? Good luck.

 

[Rand]

2011 forester.. the threadlocker and torque were from the factory...

 

[ron917]

Originally Posted By: Rand

2011 forester.. the threadlocker and torque were from the factory...

Not threadlocker, it's a RTV sealer. Back the Forester up on ramps and block the front wheels so it can't roll. Get under it with a breaker bar and 4 foot pipe. It will come off. Some heat might help, but the 4 foot pipe was enough on my Subies. If you are worried about boogering the plug, the correct tool is at 13mm square pipe plug socket. Not easy to find, but they are out there. Once the plug is cracked loose, drive it back down onto level ground so you can drain and fill properly. Put it back on with a pipe thread sealer. I use Rectorseal T-Plus 2, but anything at your local hardware that is oil resistant will work. There's no real need for an RTV sealer on that plug.

 

[SuperDave456]

I've had success on using a penetrating oil and letting it set for 15-30 minutes. Soak it, let it sit, Soak it again and then try to make it budge, slow so that you don't really mess it up. Sometimes if you work it back and forth you can squeeze some more penetrating oil in there and gradually get it cleaned up so that it will move. I recommend Kroil, but I have also had success with PB Blaster. PB Blaster is easier to find in big box stores, but Kroil is simply amazing with what it can do. Depending on the part, and if you can't get heat to the right place (for one reason or another), penetrating oils can really help.

 

[thr_wedge]

When I had a Subaru and had to change the rear diff (which was SUPER tight), I was used a breaker bar and a jack. Slowly jack up the breaker bar and use the weight of the vehicle to break the bolt loose.