How often to change oil using Supertech 10W30 in a turbo engine?

[speedygonzalez]

Based on the oil analysis you have secene, what you've read here, and your personal experience, how often should I change the oil in my turbocharged eagle talon, using Supertech 10W30 and the ST 7317 filter?

The engine has been rebuilt, but I don't kjnow how many miles it really has. Maybe 50-60K, but I'm not really sure.

It uses a little oil, but not too bad. I only see a little smoke when I boost it hard, but no valve seal leaking oil smoke or bad rings type of smoking.

The car is driven in commuting traffic from suburbs to city, about 30 miles a day, combination of highway, and city. The traffic can be pretty bad here. I look at the traffic cams and plan my route accordingly. But it's kinda severe duty.

Right now I chnage it about every 2500 or so miles. Or 2-3 months.

The engine is a mitsubishi 4g63 2.0 DIHC turbo.

Seeing these oil analysis for ST, I see it looks like after about 4K in an NA car, it's needing changed?

Well in a turbo car, this stuff might be needing changed more frequently?

 

[Gary Allan]

I don't want to touch this due to no experience with the engine/vehicle. My first gut reaction would be to recommend a more robust oil that will take you to the 6 month mark with confidence.

 

[bighead]

Are we talking ST dino or synthetic? I'd be using the synthetic if it were my turbo. My .02....

 

[JHZR2]

If you have to worry about it THAT much, maybe you should upgrade your oil, or if you cant afford better oil, maybe you should get a geo metro instead???

Id certainly be using a syn, even if a cheapo one from ST, if I was running a turbo.

Provided IF you dont drive it that hard, your use profile isnt bad... at least the oil gets up to temp regularly. That said, I wouldnt worry about 2500 mile OCIs, IMO, you could go with ST syn oil at OCIs of 5000 miles and be OK. Top up as needed.

Going further would require UOA with analysis - every instance is different, it depends on your climate, acceleration profile, how hard you drive, etc..

Also consider LC and ARX... your smoke and leaks may be done away with if ARX works in yur engine!

good luck!

JMH

 

[speedygonzalez]

Thanks for the feedback everyone; Yes it's the ST Synthetic.

I used to have an oil leak, that and burning a little, so I wanted something cheap. I have fixed the leak, about a month ago.

 

[speedygonzalez]

I don't think I want to go extended though because oil seems to get dirty by about 2500 miles. Not real bad, just dark enough where I want to change it just in case.

I might consider switching to a better sunthetic though.

What's a good bang for buck full synth, like group 4?

 

[Jim 5]

Pennzoil Platinum.

I'm not sure what group it's in, but at least one very well respected expert on this site has given it the nod.

Its pricing is lower than comparable synthetics as well.

 

[Gary Allan]

speedyG ..next time you change it, spend a quarter on a UOA to figure out if your OCI is rational. Changing colors, while appearing sensible on the surface, is hardly a valid criteria for changing your oil.

 

[bighead]

Yeah, I second what Gary said. Even though it's "just ST cheapo stuff" it's actually not a bad oil. You're still throwing away money changing even ST syn out at 2500 miles..

 

[JHZR2]

color is most of thetime quite irrelevant to oil cleanliness or quality. Often there are additives in oils that are thermally activated.

UOA is the only way to know. But I wouldnt worry much.

If I were you, I would go to wal mart, buy shell rotrella synthetic 5w-40 and also a bottle of Auto-RX, and make sure that the engine and seals are clean.

Then you can go back to ST Syn, pennzoil platinum, etc.

JMH

 

[Oldmoparguy1]

I use Rotella T Syn 5W40 in my Turbo Caravan with 199K miles. Change it once a year, ~5K miles. It darkens up fairly quick, but doesn't get black at all. Engine doesn't smoke or use any oil. I wouldn't be afraid to go 7-8K miles with this oil. Excellent choice for a turbo engine IMO.

 

[sxg6]

If my memory serves me right, the 4g63t is pretty tough on oil. I would go no more than 5k with ST synth oil and filter. Great engine by the way, i use to have a 97 gsx.

 

[John_E]

Relative to the VW/Audi 1.8T, how hard is the 4g63t on oil? I have my 1.8T on a "severe [suburban] service" 3k mi = 5k km / 6 month OCI with Mobil 1 0W-40, pending a UOA with my next oil change.

 

[memo]

I have a 4G63T and I run ST synthetic with a ST filter and I change my oil every 3K miles.

I used to run Mobil 1, but I have less lifter tick with a group III oil, so overall, my car is faster with cheaper oil. For a very quick explination (for everyone who doesn't own a DSM). Lifter tick trips the knock sensor and retards timming.

For the price, 3K oil changes are for me. If you really need to go longer then that, then buy Mobil 1 at Wally world. The oil seems to collect more dirt on a turbo engine then a NA engine. I was trying to do 5K oil changes with Mobil 1, but the oil looked black like diesel oil around 4K miles, and could feel crap trapped in the oil when I felt the dip stick. That crap runs through the turbo bearings, so I decited to just go with cheaper oil and change it more often. I havn't had any problems what so ever and I use ST synthetic in both my cars. Only the NA gets 5K oil changes.

I did a lot of research before I used the ST stuff and long term users get lots of miles of of engines using it. The only reason to run Mobil 1 in a 4g63t is to protect the turbo, or if you have a high HP engine. Just cool your turbo longer and don't boost your car till your engine temps are fully warmed up.

 

[BrianWC]

That crap also runs thru the oil filter. Changing M1 OR ST at 3k is a waste, even in a Mitsu. I wouldn't go much beyond 5k, but 3? I'd run a good dino at that interval in a turbo. Matter of fact, that's what I'm about to go back to doing if I can bear to part with the lovely Redline in my crankcase at the moment.

 

[memo]

Well, when you spend $600+ on a upgraded turbo and run 18psi+ on the street, 3K oil changes are not a wast. If you run a stock DSM, then ya, maybe 3K oil changes are not in order, but the ST stuff is so cheap, and it's cheap insurance for a performance motor and turbo.

If you want to run 5K miles on your turbo, go ahead, I'm not going to.

 

[BrianWC]

"Cheap insurance" is the line used by mechanics for years to perpetuate the myth of the 3k oci. If you're properly controlling your EGT's it shouldn't matter how much boost you run. I know plenty of folks w/ mods running longer than 3k, but it's your money....

 

[BrianWC]

Nope, but I have had a few of turbo cars, thank you very much. You're obviously not a saab expert or you'd know I was referring to a turbo car. So we're even. My 9-5 (that's turbo, thank you very much) is considered tougher on oil than just about anything out there. The only reason you don't hear more is b/c there are far fewer saabs than tdi VWs and yotas.

Once again, if you are throwing synth out of any car turbo or otherwise that you are not tracking, you are more than likely wasting oil. Black oil is oil that is doing its job, dispersing carbon so that it doesn't collect and/or interfer with lubrication. If you think that black oil after a few days is bad, we don't have much more to discuss, do we?

 

[the_oil_dealer]

hey just as a sidenote, try using the ST3593 or ST3950 (which is actually DSM OEM style/size) for a bigger filter. They flow great as per my experience, better than the smallish 7317.

 

[memo]

quote:

---

Originally posted by BrianWC:
Nope, but I have had a few of turbo cars, thank you very much. You're obviously not a saab expert or you'd know I was referring to a turbo car. So we're even. My 9-5 (that's turbo, thank you very much) is considered tougher on oil than just about anything out there. The only reason you don't hear more is b/c there are far fewer saabs than tdi VWs and yotas.

Once again, if you are throwing synth out of any car turbo or otherwise that you are not tracking, you are more than likely wasting oil. Black oil is oil that is doing its job, dispersing carbon so that it doesn't collect and/or interfer with lubrication. If you think that black oil after a few days is bad, we don't have much more to discuss, do we?

---

Well, I'm glad you have had turbo cars. I guess I'll jump for joy for you.

ST synthetic is a group III oil, not a true synthetic and it's additives are questionable. It's $12 for 5 quarts. Why are you so bent on saying that I am throwing away good oil? The ST is not as good as Mobil 1, or higher performance oils on the market.

Your black oil comment was retarted. I was talking about diesel engines. However, oil can only hold so much suspended dirt, so when it is black and gritty, it is time to change it. I prefer to change it before it gets that dark.

If you want to get all technical, the oil filter this guy buys plays a roll too. I used the ST because I've read great flow rates test on it, but it doesn't filter as well as a wix. The turbo on our cars is the last thing to get oil, so I chose to go with a filter with great oil flow. The filter media is not as tight as other filters on the market, so the filter it'self might not last 5K miles.

I'm trying to help out a fellow DSMer and if you want to add usefull information, then please do, but don't be a **** and the fact that you had a turbo saab doesn't really mean anything in this thread. So, why is a turbo saab the hardest on engine oil anyway? This I gotta hear.