How often for PS and brake fluid flushed?

[Kiwi_ME]

Originally Posted By: Familyguy
Or just remove the return line from the PS reservoir and direct that into a bucket. Start the car and in about 3-4 seconds the power steering pump will pump all of the old fluid into the bucket for you. Shut her down, replace the return line and refill. I generally do this, then drive it around for a little while, then do it again to get the most crud out that I can.
Another way to remove fluid from each side of the rack/steering actuator all at once without having to go for a drive is to *not* start the engine but simply turn the wheel lock to lock. It helps to raise the front somewhat first to unload the tires. Try it next time - much less drama and very effective.

 

[The Critic]

Originally Posted By: Familyguy
Or just remove the return line from the PS reservoir and direct that into a bucket. Start the car and in about 3-4 seconds the power steering pump will pump all of the old fluid into the bucket for you. Shut her down, replace the return line and refill. I generally do this, then drive it around for a little while, then do it again to get the most crud out that I can.

Except on my Saturn, the return line is behind the reservoir and it's impossible to get my hand back there as it's too close to the firewall. So in order to remove the hose, I'd have to R/R the serpentine belt and the power steering pump (reservoir is attached).

Originally Posted By: labman
I would skip the brake flush and rebuild/replace the calipers next pad change. The rubber in the seals and boots are getting old and worn. Once you do that, there won't be much old fluid left.


The newer EPDM brake seals are rated for 150,000 miles or more. Unless the calipers are exhibiting problems, I would not replace the calipers until at least the second brake job or when the vehicle has over 100,000 miles on it.

Personally, I think 5/60k is a good interval for the PS and transmission fluids. For brake fluid, flush it at the OEM recommended interval. If there's no OEM recommended interval, then I would have it flushed each time you replace the pads.

 

[Patman]

I just had a brake job done and I asked them to change the brake fluid too but I don't think it was done as it wasn't listed on the final bill and the fluid still looks dark. Am I silly for thinking that I could do a partial change by simply using a turkey baster type of thing and removing what's in the master cylinder and replacing it with fresh fluid? (repeating this several times over the course of a few days) Or would that method just be a waste of my time? I've done that method with the power steering fluid in other cars in the past and it helped (my Firebird had stiff steering on cold mornings but after I did the change with synthetic PS fluid it got 100% better)

 

[Ryan]

They probably didn't if it isn't listed, but I will say that my car that I acquired at 80,000 miles never had the brake fluid changed. After flushing the fluid with one of the big brake fluid bottles, it still looks kinda dirty. I can't remember, but I think I might have done this 2x already because it was still looking dirty. I might be confused with the WS6 I bought used a few years ago with dirty brake fluid. I know for sure that I flushed two big bottles of brake fluid through that car and it still didn't look "clear" when looking through the reservoir.

 

[cousincletus]

IMO disconnecting p/s lines is asking for trouble (leaks). I use the turkey baster every 30K of so and just get out what's in the reservoir. Brake fluid gets done every brake job. Never had any issues in my 30+ yrs experience doing it this way. FWIW I had two original calipers in my 1974 Chevy p/u when I sold it back in 2001.

 

[mechtech2]

It's hard to believe the brakes were bled and the fluid is still dirty.
See if the bleeders and surrounding ares are wet with signs of recent bleeding.
If they are bone dry, and the inside of the bleeder is dry, you got ripped off and should complain.
A turkey baster flush of the PS system is a wonderful way to easily, quickly, and cleanly get new fluid in [repeat the process].
but brakes are another thing. It definitely helps to perform TB flushes of the brake fluid reservoir, but the effect is less and it is much slower to mix.

 

[Patman]

Originally Posted By: mechtech2

If they are bone dry, and the inside of the bleeder is dry, you got ripped off and should complain.



I didn't get ripped off though, he didn't charge me for the service (and his prices are already amazing, my bills from him always end up being less than I estimate they'll be)

 

[Dave Hess]

Why didn't you do the fluid swap in your garage ?

 

[PandaBear]

PS fluid is like ATF or engine oil, just dump it into the engine oil and recycle it together.

 

[Patman]

Originally Posted By: LT4 Vette
Why didn't you do the fluid swap in your garage ?


I don't have the confidence to work on my own brakes. I've watched people do brake fluid swaps and it doesn't look like the easiest thing to do either. My skill level pretty much ends after oil changes and spark plug changes. Anything other than that I get someone with more experience to do it for me.

 

[Benzadmiral]

Originally Posted By: mechtech2
Turkey baster PS flushes are so easy.
I'd do it once a year. Repeat the process a number of times after starting and making the pump work, of course.

Not on my car, Babalooey!

It's been 2 years and about 20K miles, so I went out while the car was cold to drain the old stuff with my Topsider suction pump, as I did before. The reservoir is down low by the firewall, behind a maze of pipes and hoses. For some reason I can't get my hand down far enough between the obstructions! I can just barely get my fingers to the cap, but when I start to turn, the clip holding one of the hoses digs into my hand. If I wore a glove thick enough to protect my hand, I know I couldn't squeeze down there at all.

The weird thing is that I managed to drain and replace the P/S two years ago. Maybe my hand has gotten thicker!