No need for that. An engine speced for 0W-16 can run 0W-20 without any problems. The Toyota OM even says it's OK to use a higher viscosity oil for harsher use condtions. They wouldn't say that if the engine couldn't use a thicker oil.
How many times have you switched sides on the thick vs. thin debate?
- Thread starter camrydriver111
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I guess you can say twice. I ignored 5w20 and used 5w30 in vehicles “specifying” it.
When I got a “0w20 spec’d” car I bought into the 0w20 oils for it and even though the w20 bothered me there were no signs of wear from using it, so I continued doing so for a few years.
For another vehicle of mine, (that has a 5w20 back spec’d engine) I started to use Euro oils and this was the gateway to “thicker” for me. This is when I realized and learned that 5w30 is also technically a CAFE oil just like 0w20.
I only stock and use 0w30 - 5w40 euro oils now and would consider myself to be on the “thick” side now. So much so that I personally would have no qualms about not using 0w16 or 0w20 in brand new cars under warranty.
When I got a “0w20 spec’d” car I bought into the 0w20 oils for it and even though the w20 bothered me there were no signs of wear from using it, so I continued doing so for a few years.
For another vehicle of mine, (that has a 5w20 back spec’d engine) I started to use Euro oils and this was the gateway to “thicker” for me. This is when I realized and learned that 5w30 is also technically a CAFE oil just like 0w20.
I only stock and use 0w30 - 5w40 euro oils now and would consider myself to be on the “thick” side now. So much so that I personally would have no qualms about not using 0w16 or 0w20 in brand new cars under warranty.
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Yeah I should have ended it with /s to signify it was sarcasm...I was just being goofy. From everything I've read, there doesn't seem to be much difference between the two.
Because an engine oil temp. is variable, RPM is variable, so the viscosity is variable and the MOFT is variable. Modern engines use modern engine bearings that control the MOFT tighter to use thinner oil. (in the hydrodynamic regime) The bearing shape and RPM has a lot to do with the oil wedge that makes MOFT.
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Hermann
Site Donor 2023
My most recent oil purchase is Mobil 1 0w-30. A good compromise for the summer IMO. I want 0W-XX something to move around easily when the ICE starts up for the first time. Sometimes in warmer weather that can be a 1/2 mile or so and I am moving at 30 mph or so when it kicks in.
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I’ve always been on the thicker side, but I never understood people that run 15w40 and 20w50 when there are oils that have better startup characteristics than that glue. I know, they all say VII and sheer and blah blah, but I’ve never been a guy trying to stretch my OCI’s either. I just started running my engines to 7k OCIs since I run oils proven capable of that now. Why would I run 15w40 when I can run 0w40 or 5w40 that is superior? I also have a hard time believing people are interested in oil or performance if they run dino juice.
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One of the first things I read on bitog is to look at your owners manual made for a different country to see what oil “they”recommend for another country. Usually it’s only in the USA do the recommend the thin stuff like 0w-20
Sure, there’s some trolling with the epa as they only care about squeezing out the most mpg and the government isn’t concerned about what oil offers the best protection. Government regs drive a lot of what’s put into the owners manual
I idle up at 1,450 rpm when I go into the store to burn every atom of diesel fuel. Base idling for 2-4 minutes at a time to cool the turbo can get annoying when running errands.. that kindof driving behavior is strictly discouraged by big daddy fed but it’s better for me engine and turbo
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it inWell..I had thought that 20wt is half the viscosity of 40wt...before i started this forum. I see its not linear. There would be more leakage with thinner but if the oil pump is up to it thin might not be so evil...but on the other hand..
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