How many of us oil nerds still "warm up" your car?

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I highly doubt it burns that much while idling...

I've slept in my car many times in different weather (very HOT, had to run the AC or very COLD and had to run the heater) and after a 5-6 hour nap, the fuel gauge would've barely moved. (in my 07 Civic which has bars instead of a needle, i'd wake up with 1 bar gone)

My wife idles her 06 Scion tC for 5-10 minutes each and every day (sometimes LONGER!) and every week when i fill it up, the scan gauge and my mileage calculations show 26-27mpg average. Her daily commute to work and back is 70% highway with stop and go morning and evening traffic and believe me when i say she drives with a heavy foot (car is modified) and i redline it daily as well!

Now the car is rated @ 19 city / 27 highway yet with all the morning idling, abusive driving, etc the car is still returning highway MPG rating with mixed city driving. (we average 27-29mph with all highway cruising @ 76-80mph on cruise control)

Don't get me wrong, idling for 5 minutes DOES indeed waste gas, even if it's a small amount, so that statement is true. That's the reason why it's been posted many times on different web sites suggesting that we stop idling in the AM, stop idling at the drive-thru, at redlight, etc, etc because if we add up all 20 million Americans doing it, it does add up to quite a bit of gas spent standing still, i agree.

But the comfort of my wife getting into a warm car (or cooled off, during the summer) is worth the $0.50
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of gas burned warming up the car.
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Originally Posted By: grampi
Originally Posted By: IndyIan
Originally Posted By: grampi

Yes, I would also like to know where these people are buying their vehicles with these magical HVAC systems that totally defy physics...

It came standard on my Neon... But seriously, the inside of my windows are rarely frosted when I get in my car in the morning. To keep them clear I blow any temperature of air over my windows. At no point from 0F air to 100F air do they fog up as I drive and the car warms up... It doesn't defy physics and no AC is needed either(mine broke 5 years ago).


Who said anything about frost being on the INSIDE of the windows....except you? I will say it one more time for the slow people. It's physically impossible for a defroster blowing cold air to clear either frost/ice from the outside of the windows, or fog from the inside. If you think your's is doing this, you either don't have anything on your windows to begin with, or they are not fogging after you get in the car. There is no such thing as a magic defroster that'll clear the windows while blowing cold air...


Actually, cold, DRY air MOST CERTAINLY WILL clear fogged glass.
 
After sitting over night, I let my truck idle for a couple minutes before driving. So by the time I drive, the idle has come down from 1300rpm or so to 800-ish. It hovers around 1000rpm for a minute, but if I drive off before it comes down, it always seems a little finicky. If it's warm enough to idle normally, I just wait until the oil pressure light goes off or until the chime stops.
 
Originally Posted By: Jarlaxle
Originally Posted By: grampi
Originally Posted By: IndyIan
Originally Posted By: grampi

Yes, I would also like to know where these people are buying their vehicles with these magical HVAC systems that totally defy physics...

It came standard on my Neon... But seriously, the inside of my windows are rarely frosted when I get in my car in the morning. To keep them clear I blow any temperature of air over my windows. At no point from 0F air to 100F air do they fog up as I drive and the car warms up... It doesn't defy physics and no AC is needed either(mine broke 5 years ago).


Who said anything about frost being on the INSIDE of the windows....except you? I will say it one more time for the slow people. It's physically impossible for a defroster blowing cold air to clear either frost/ice from the outside of the windows, or fog from the inside. If you think your's is doing this, you either don't have anything on your windows to begin with, or they are not fogging after you get in the car. There is no such thing as a magic defroster that'll clear the windows while blowing cold air...


Actually, cold, DRY air MOST CERTAINLY WILL clear fogged glass.


In almost 40 years of driving, I've never seen a car do it...
 
In the dead of winter, I do warm up my car for 3 minutes, but not just by sitting and idling. The reason is that I live about 4 city blocks from i95. No way I'm getting on the onramp while engine is very cold and revving to merge into high speed traffic. So I start the car and immediately grandma-speed about 10-15 blocks in a loop before coming on to the highway. That's how I warm up.
 
To paraphrase a lot of what has been said.

Cold, dry air will certainly clear the warm, moist air coming out of your mouth from the glass provided the conditions are right. However there isn't unlimated capacity to do this. If you got 4 adults in the car you will need some help(windows open). You basically exhaust the warm air from the car before it even gets the chance to condense on the glass. Yes once it freezes you have ice if it is little enough it WILL clear with cold, dry air. Warm, dry air just speeds the process along but be warned it also allows more capacity for moisture in the air so don't be a doofus and run the car in the winter, with heat, & re-circulation on.

This worked many times on the Forester...depended on the weather. Some places get really cold & dry winters, others get winters where the reverse it common place.

Now you diesel guys I don't get, you do know letting a diesel idle is the WORST possible thing you can do especially for the turbo. The seals leak when they don't have boost on the otherside.

My TDI if it is really cold I let the idle stabilize & go, otherwise I am not getting any heat for weeks. Maybe 1-2 mins max the engine needs to work to make any heat.

A post I made a while ago regarding the Forester and warmup,
Quote:
I would do 0-60 in as fast as I could muster when I lived in Allentown at our old apt.

I lived maybe 3-5 mins from the interstate, depending on the sitting I did at the lights.

The highway I would take to work you had to stop at the on ramp as it was designed this way. The Forester has analog auto-temp control. As in no digital readout just a knob to adjust the desired temp. Well a function of this is it will not blast heat until coolant has reached a certain temp.

From the manual
NOTE:
With the fan speed control dial in the AUTO position
and the air flow control dial in the “ ”,
“ ”, or “ ” position, the fan does not operate
during engine warmup until the engine coolant
temperature exceeds approx. 122°F (50°C).

So as the engine would warm I'd start to here turn very slow but it would not run full force until I merged onto the highway. This tells me that I was certainly below or right at 122F coolant temp. I did this for a year with regular 5w30 in the engine and it never seemed to bother the car. I would have to go almost WOT on the cold engine in first gear since traffic was moving along at no less than 60MPH.

Now granted this isn't 90 secs after start although it could be if I got the lights timed perfect point is the car didn't care, I wasn't going to sit & eat gas for 5 mins for no benefit. The car is a tool, used like a tool, sometimes they break if you don't maintain them and sometimes they do even despite that.

Use a synthetic oil and worry little, your car & your stomach will thank you.

As to the suggestion to go slower on the highway as if that is some benefit to the engine. Speed limits are not suggestion, they are cold hard law. If you don't intend to go the speed limit at a minimum then please stay off the highway. More accidents occur from going slower on the highway than speeding. If the speed issue is of concern than do as suggested and take the road to the next exit instead. Speed limits were designed for safety but above all else to control traffic & congestion. Going slower shows no real world benefit to anyone unless you like inciting "road rage".
 
Being in the mild Bay Area our Focus and Sable warm up for maybe 30 seconds or the time to get situated and seat belts on. The older Mazda 626 gets about 1 minute. The Cougar and Mustang, in the garage, get 5 minutes. The Polara, outside gets 5 minutes also. Then the F-100 needs close to 10 minutes otherwise I need to drive off with the choke still half way on. Last the Park Lane needs 10 minutes mainly to warm up the transmission fluid for it to shift into drive. This transmission is due for a rebuild which will be done as soon as the 410 is pulled.
 
We let our vehicles warm up for at least 5 min in the winter and at least 4 mins in the summer. I bet the amount of fuel needed to conpensate for the thick as heck oil and the really rich fuel mixture needed to run cold is more than idling for a few minutes. I like to get into a warm vehicle that is safe and comfortable. And i think the few cents a day I have to pay for it even if i do is a fair trade. I also plug both in when its not tee shirt weather.
 
Originally Posted By: antiqueshell
Originally Posted By: tbm3fan
Being in the mild Bay Area .... The Cougar and Mustang, in the garage, get 5 minutes.


Why?


One, to give the Ford hot air choke the time to work. I remember clearly the trouble my father had with the Cougar in 1968 when he would start it and try to take off right away. Then I would start before he got to the car to give the choke a chance to work and then no more problems. Two, by the time I start, roll it out of the garage, go find a pair of sunglasses, make sure I have the house keys on another chain, have my emergency cell phone, and then buckle up it may be 10 minutes...
 
Originally Posted By: grampi
Originally Posted By: Jarlaxle
My windows are clear in 90 seconds...if yours arent, you should have the car checked. There may be a problem with the HVAC system.


Balogna! I've never seen a vehicle's defroster capable of clearing the windows in just 90 seconds after a cold engine has been started. Heat is required to clear windows and you ain't gonna get that in 90 seconds....


I agree with this 100%. Never had a car windshield defrost on the inside until heat started pouring out that top register.

Heck....it seems to make it worse in the first 90 seconds.
 
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