How does my plan sound?

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Hello everyone. My name is Shelby. I'm a 17 year-old male, and I will begin maintaining a few extra cars. I've enrolled in an advanced automotive class at school, so I have plenty of time to work on cars. The car I'm concerned with the most (right now) is my mother's 1990 Toyota 4Runner 3VZ-E (3.0L V6, 5spd manual, 4wd). It has about 154k on the clock, and it has been neglected for years. Other than a timing belt and an oil change in the past few months, there has been zero maintenance performed. We both love the truck, and I'd hate to see it break down. It seems pretty bulletproof, as the only signs of wear are an erratic idle and a slight oil leak. I know I'll be doing a lot of tune-up work (plugs, wires, cap, rotor, fuel filter, air filter, etc...) but I'm here to make sure I'm putting good fluids in to it. Engine Oil - I think I'm going to run two Auto-Rx treatments using Napa oil and Napa Gold filters (BTW, I get a hefty discount on Napa products through the school's automotive program. I'm not sure if this only applies to Napa-brand products, though). After this, I'm not sure whether to keep using a cheap dino (Chevron, Shell, etc...) with a 3k OCI, or use a more expensive synthetic (Amsoil, Mobil 1 EP) and shoot for a much longer OCI. So, what kind of oil would net me a long OCI with Napa Gold filters? I know that analyzing the oil is the only sure way to tell, but if you can give me a starting point, I'd appreciate it. [Smile] Also, the manual doesn't specify a weight for the oil, so I need recommendations. I have 5w-30 in it right now, and it feels fine. It gets kind of cold here in Nevada, but not utterly cold. I'm thinking a 5w-30 in the winter and 10w-30 or 10w-40 in the summer. Coolant - I have a bottle of Zerex G05, and I hear that it's pretty good stuff, so no real questions here. Brake/Clutch Fluids - Manual recommends DOT3, so I think any name brand DOT3/4 fluid will suffice. MT/Transfer Case - Looks like they both want 75w-90 GL-5 gear oil. I planned on using Auto-Rx in the transmission. What would be a good host oil for this? Is Auto-Rx needed in the t-case? Again, I'm not sure if I should go with less expensive dino oils or high dollar synthetics (from Specialty Formulations). I could use dino recommendations. Differentials - Looks like 75w-90 hypoid gear oil. I bet Specialty Formulations has something, but should I look at a dino due to the vehicle's age? Recommendations? In a nutshell, I'm unsure if I should use expensive synthetics in this old truck, and, if not, what dino oils are of good quality? Am I headed in the right direction? Thank you for your time, and any and all advice is appreciated.
 
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I'd use Specialty Formulations [in the prper grade] in your manual transmission, for sure. Any name brand hypoid will be OK for the differential. Synthetic motor oil's primary benefit is in longer change intervals. I stoped using M1 [a very good oil], and now use Havoline 5-30 dino [many around here like it as well].
 
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I tried like **** to find a typo or a spelling error in your post, can't find any. Amazing and refreshing at the same time. Motor oil: Some guys on this foum have said they get their Toyota motors quieted down by using Havoline dino. More specifically, valvetrain noise. If I made a recommendation on viscosity, I would say 10W-30. I just never thought 5W-30 was neccessary unless you're driving in sub-zero weather. As far as the rest of the fluids, I think what you have listed is fine.
 
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quote:
I tried like **** to find a typo or a spelling error in your post, can't find any. Amazing and refreshing at the same time. Motor oil: Some guys on this foum have said they get their Toyota motors quieted down by using Havoline dino. More specifically, valvetrain noise. If I made......
On the other hand, I didn't have to try like ****. [Wink]
 
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Sounds like a good plan. Sounds like you've got your head attached properly, also. Good for you. I'd skip the synthetic and even a synthetic blend. I'd use Havoline, Chevron, etc. Whatever you can find the cheapest, that is a well respected oil. I presonally don't like Castrol, but many do. My advice would be to pull the valve cover first before doing an ARX treatment(s). I can't remember who makes the NAPA oil, it might be Valvoline. My brother will certainly know, as he used to work for them. I know their filters are good quality.
 
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If you put G-05 coolant in it and the vehicle does not already have G-05, you should completely flush out both the radiator and engine block to remove all of whatever type of coolant it has. In my opinion its not a good idea to mix two different types of coolant. And use distilled water when flushing and for the final fill.
 

Shoobie

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Thank you, everyone! mechtech: The reason I'd like an extended OCI is because this vehicle belongs to my mother, and she wont have the oil changed at any interval. I don't mind changing it every 3k, I'd just like to not have to hover over the odometer. GoldenRod: The reason I used 5w-30 is because I had some leftovers from my own car. I'll switch to a 10w-30 when the Auto-Rx goes in. thooks: Again, I seek extended OCIs because I don't drive the vehicle every day; I really only drive it when the weather is bad and my mom isn't going anywhere. I don't mind 3k OCIs, but I wouldn't mind paying a premium for a 10k-15k/1 year OCI. I don't even know if this is attainable on an engine of this age, though. Yes, I believe Napa oil is manufactured by Valvoline, although with a less robust additive package. The filters are manufactured by Wix. I'd like to pull the valve covers, but it looks rather difficult. Also, given the fact that I know that this engine has been neglected, I'm sure it's not too pretty. jmacmaster: Yes, I know to do a complete flush. I just finished a radiator replacement on my own car; this is why I have extra G05. So, does anyone know if the transfer case should get a dose of Auto-Rx? Is the 3VZ-E a sludge prone engine?
 
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I would not go over 10k ocis with synthetic. Some say 6 months should be the time limit, but the whole time limit is b.s. imho. 10k or 1 year seems good to me. Mobil 1 is known(atleast on these forums) to "perceptively" make engines "noisier", so don't be surprised if you use mobil 1 synthetic and that happens. It's an odd thing, however most of us don't believe it has any real significance as far as the oil performing as it should.
 
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Coolant, good choice. Trans, xfer case, diff. You have 154k on the fluids in there, tired for certain, but still on the job. Unless you are towing, 4 wheeling in mud, or causing heat by other means, I'd put a quality conventional right back in and be done with it. Brake fluid, I lean toward Castrol LMA if using a standard fluid, and ATE super if I need something more robust. Engine oil, again, since you have a lot of miles on the clock, I would be a little hesitant to switch to a full synth. Havoline at 3-4 k is fine, and several here on the board really like the CP offerings (Conoco-Phillips) syn blends. At 1.50 a quart @WM, it is a very good value for an oil with about 40% syn. Just my .02, YMMV.
 
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I would investigate the brake fluid choice a bit more. Dot 3 is a fine fluid for average driving conditions and my Ford Escort manual states "use of DOT 4 fluid will damage brake components". Valvolene never returned a reply about using their Syntec 3/4 fluid in my Escort. Shelby.......were your parents perhaps hot rod/Mustang fans?????
 

Shoobie

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beanoil: What kind of risks would I be taking switching to a synthetic? I understand the concern, and I'd much rather be safe than sorry. Any particular conventionals that you'd recommend? doitmyself: I will do research, but I guess I'll go with a DOT 3 fluid, again, just to be on the safe side. Yes, I was named after Carroll Shelby. Ironically, my father has a 70 Corvette and a 69 Camaro, but no Mustang. Also, ironically, I don't know much about the legacy of the man I was named after. [ February 01, 2006, 01:29 AM: Message edited by: Shoobie ]
 
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