How do you know when to definitively change a transmission spin on filter

Messages
539
Location
Newport News, VA
I am adding a spin on trans filter to the cummins 2005 truck. This filter has an internal bypass set from 7-9 psi.

I am going to add to add a 60 psi gauge on the input to the filter. I was thinking get a new pressure reading, then when the pressure rises by 7 psi, it needs changing idea.
 
Messages
16,002
Location
NE,Ohio
do trans filters normally have a bypass? and if so why would it be so low.. I'd spec one of those subaru style 22psi bypass ones If I had to use a bypass equipped filter.
 
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7,016
Location
Suburban Washington DC
I think I'd add an auxiliary cooler and temperature gauge before adding a spin on filter and pressure gauge. What's wrong with the filter already in the transmission? What are you trying to achieve?
 

sdowney717

Thread starter
Messages
539
Location
Newport News, VA
do trans filters normally have a bypass? and if so why would it be so low.. I'd spec one of those subaru style 22psi bypass ones If I had to use a bypass equipped filter.
they do have an in internal bypass.
here it is

What am I wanting? better filtration.
I have already added another cooler in front of the OEM, it is actually another OEM cooler made by Dorman in series with OEM.
I removed the thermostat from the OEM cooler as it quit working.
I eliminated the problematic seperate coolant to ATF cooler as with age they can leak on the Cummins Ram trucks.
 

sdowney717

Thread starter
Messages
539
Location
Newport News, VA
here are both coolers with intercooler removed., Dorman on top of OEM. Trans fluid is running a lot cooler, I can tell by a hand on the pan. I can now leave my hand on the pan.
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sdowney717

Thread starter
Messages
539
Location
Newport News, VA
spin on filters do need changing when they clog up, they are no different than any other spin on filter. This spin on has a 28 micron rating. The screen in the pan is about 100 micron rating. An add on Magnefine is about 40 micron and adds a magnet.
 

sdowney717

Thread starter
Messages
539
Location
Newport News, VA
Can you monitor temp through OBD2? That would be good to know instead of just by feel.
Maybe, but the code is unpublished.
Planning to add a trans temp gauge, Exhaust temp gauge, boost gauge in the cabin using a 4 hole mount that fits over the mirror.
which leaves me 1 more gauge hole for something else.
I just pulled off pan and it is super clean inside.
Also going to drill a hole and solder in a 1/2" brass bushing to use a 3/8 plug for a drain.
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sdowney717

Thread starter
Messages
539
Location
Newport News, VA
I brazed in a brass fitting into the pan for a drain. Tried soldering but was not good, too loose lets solder run out. I suppose JB Weld could have done this too.
Simply cut a hole and screwed in the brass fitting. A steel fitting brazed on the pan would have been better and easier. But this is ok. But not cast iron, that can be harder to braze. Got to be super careful not to overheat the brass fitting, cause it will melt into a puddle since the brazing rod and brass are about the same melting point.
It is on and not leaking
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sdowney717

Thread starter
Messages
539
Location
Newport News, VA
Figured out where to put the trans spin on filter, and it is under truck on the frame.
I could have force fit this next to cooler, but I was thinking, I dont want ATF dripping down if I change the filter.

I drilled and tapped for three 1/4-20 grade 8 bolts. And that was TOUGH! Drilling is ok, but tapping is not.
The frame steel seems to be hardened. I broke one tap and had to pound it out of the hole with a punch and 3 lb sledge. I did make a cardboard template to get the holes drilled in the right spot. I used a short tiny wrench to tighten the side bolts.
Retaping worked with a new tap and a new drill. But it is easy to break. Likely better to over drill the hole slightly bigger.
What others seem to do is drill a hole and simply run in a screw, not a bolt.
I will finish this tomorrow. Since its 4x4, I had to make sure the drive shaft wont hit the hose ever, will show how I did that later.

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sdowney717

Thread starter
Messages
539
Location
Newport News, VA
Works good, PSI halfway warmed up is 12.
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wont be rubbing driveshaft
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cut out entire oem metal return line, straightened and curved it, beaded the ends and reused a section as I ran out of rubber hose.
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2 rubber hoses ziptied here onto the brake lines
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more of the new hoses tied in so cant move around. Also made sure they wont rub on anything sharp.
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