The only way to accurately measure remaining lining thickness and assess the condition of the lining looking for cracking a delamination or other issues is pulling the wheel and the caliper. All calipers and drums come off on every state inspection I do and every brake check I do. Only way to do it right. While the PA inspection regs do not say that calipers have to be removed, if you ask Penndot about it the answer you will get is "How can you assess the condition and measure the thickness of the bottom of the inboard pad without removing the caliper."
How Do You Check Brake Pads
- Thread starter Warstud
- Start date
This is always a problem. I think the short answer that no one wants to say is: most techs just "see what they can see" and/or guess.
Plenty of reports of dealer inspections saying pads are good when they're not, and there was one member here who said every single time he went in for an oil change they told him pads were low even though they were new.
You have a few like Timmastertech but most techs are too rushed/busy so it's, "Eh probably ok."
Plenty of reports of dealer inspections saying pads are good when they're not, and there was one member here who said every single time he went in for an oil change they told him pads were low even though they were new.
You have a few like Timmastertech but most techs are too rushed/busy so it's, "Eh probably ok."
You really should check the condition of the pads aswell, especially when you find uneven wear. Overheated pads tend to crack and crumble or come off the backing plate.
On a lift, it doesn't take much time, less than the time I'd allow for oil to drain, to check all pads, discs (on both sides), check for play in suspension and steering linkage, pump the tyres, check the drivetrain and exhaust and pump/inspect tyres. You just get a routine going. Half of that I would already know before the car is on the lift to be fair
If actual correctional work is needed, that'll take a bit longer.
On a lift, it doesn't take much time, less than the time I'd allow for oil to drain, to check all pads, discs (on both sides), check for play in suspension and steering linkage, pump the tyres, check the drivetrain and exhaust and pump/inspect tyres. You just get a routine going. Half of that I would already know before the car is on the lift to be fair
If actual correctional work is needed, that'll take a bit longer.
- Joined
- Jul 10, 2022
- Messages
- 3,717
Imho difficult to do without removing the wheels. I could understand if one is a flat rate tech getting no compensation to do a safety inspection or multipoint and guesstimating, but if one’s own car worth the time to actually look and see.
It would be funny if the next question were, pads all worn to backing of pads. How to replace and compress pistons without taking off wheels….
It would be funny if the next question were, pads all worn to backing of pads. How to replace and compress pistons without taking off wheels….
Most pads I use have a vertical grove down the center with about a 1/4" left solid next to the back plate. When that groove is gone they need changed. You can see it on both sides when turning the wheels. Just did this on the Accent. The Gen Coupe with Brembos is so easy to check/change it takes longer to take the tires off than pull the pads.
You guys will laugh, but I go to this place called Brake Check. I bought lifetime brakes from them, and I get my oil changed by them once a year and tell them to measure the front and rear pads. This way I don't wear the pads out and kill my warranty.
Yes I can do it in my driveway, but I don't mess with it so much anymore.
Yes I can do it in my driveway, but I don't mess with it so much anymore.
- Joined
- Jul 10, 2022
- Messages
- 3,717
My uncle ran a shop like that….it was at a seriously busy intersection in W Phila. They would have a sign “brake job $39.95 and up.”
One time I told him my Maxima brakes were squeaking and he told some employees put some new front brakes on that car!
The shop was outfitted by “Mighty” products and I bet the brakes had asbestos. They lasted about 14k at which time I went back to Akebono ProACT….
My uncle got 2 free Audi A6s out of that job. People would limp in and when they got the estimate they’d say you can have the car. He got really good In removing the front clips of Audis…
I check if the rotor is still there 
I usually check at least 2x per year which works out to my winter/summer tire change over. Back in April I saw it was time to do the pads on the Accord soon. Rear rotors were looking pretty crappy also.
I just changed them yesterday. Pads all around and rear rotors. None of them hit the squeal tabs but all 4 wheels were worn like this. The rear pads were really only working on about 3/4 of the rotor due to rust on outer and inner edge.
I just changed them yesterday. Pads all around and rear rotors. None of them hit the squeal tabs but all 4 wheels were worn like this. The rear pads were really only working on about 3/4 of the rotor due to rust on outer and inner edge.
I check wear when I rotate the tires.
Back when linings were riveted, I used to change the pads when the linings were about the same thickness as the metal backing. With bonded linings, I let them go until the linings are about half the thickness of the metal backing. Or when the wear sensors start making noise or the lining wear message appears on the instrument panel.
Back when linings were riveted, I used to change the pads when the linings were about the same thickness as the metal backing. With bonded linings, I let them go until the linings are about half the thickness of the metal backing. Or when the wear sensors start making noise or the lining wear message appears on the instrument panel.
In the FWIW section; from the ebc FAQ web page:
Also during the life of the pads remember to monitor pad wear as half worn pads or more than half worn pads will cause a significant reduction in performance of the brake. In sport use and for optimum braking we recommend changing pads when there is 3/16 th inch (4mm) of friction material left on the steel backing plate and not to wear the pads any lower. Pads and calipers start to overheat when friction material goes below this level.
Also during the life of the pads remember to monitor pad wear as half worn pads or more than half worn pads will cause a significant reduction in performance of the brake. In sport use and for optimum braking we recommend changing pads when there is 3/16 th inch (4mm) of friction material left on the steel backing plate and not to wear the pads any lower. Pads and calipers start to overheat when friction material goes below this level.
for some unknown to me reason seems any entity with a vested financial interest in selling replacement partsIn the FWIW section; from the ebc FAQ web page:
Also during the life of the pads remember to monitor pad wear as half worn pads or more than half worn pads will cause a significant reduction in performance of the brake. In sport use and for optimum braking we recommend changing pads when there is 3/16 th inch (4mm) of friction material left on the steel backing plate and not to wear the pads any lower. Pads and calipers start to overheat when friction material goes below this level.
will always advise early replacement.
Every 3000 Mile comes to mind as one of the greatest and successful marketing campaign ever.
.t
for some unknown to me reason seems any entity with a vested financial interest in selling replacement parts
will always advise early replacement.
Every 3000 Mile comes to mind as one of the greatest and successful marketing campaign ever.
t
Generally true to be skeptical.
In this particular case I can concur that braking performance does progressively deteriorate during the last 40% or so of pad thickness. One may not notice that on a car that does not have occasion to use the brakes in competitive situations.
As ebc indicates, letting the pads get really thin does induce overheating. There are heat indicator paints that are used on the rotor edge (by the racing crowd) that illustrate this occurrence:
Genesis Technologies GB7000 Brake Temperature Paint
The Brake Temperature Paint delivers the widest temperature range in one bottle. Temperature readings ranging from 0° to 1400 ° Fahrenheit (0° to 800° Celsius) are displayed over a six-color change from cold to hot.
kennybrown.com
exactly... if you were racing you'd probably junk the brake pads at every opportunity. as well as the motor oil, and quite a few other items.Generally true to be skeptical.
In this particular case I can concur that braking performance does progressively deteriorate during the last 40% or so of pad thickness. One may not notice that on a car that does not have occasion to use the brakes in competitive situations.
As ebc indicates, letting the pads get really thin does induce overheating. There are heat indicator paints that are used on the rotor edge (by the racing crowd) that illustrate this occurrence:
Genesis Technologies GB7000 Brake Temperature Paint
The Brake Temperature Paint delivers the widest temperature range in one bottle. Temperature readings ranging from 0° to 1400 ° Fahrenheit (0° to 800° Celsius) are displayed over a six-color change from cold to hot.
But aren't race examples sort of a digression for the general motoring people ?
I suspect this thread was aimed at the general motoring public on BITOG..
I worked in a bus fleet my whole adult life.
I spent 40 years of my work life in the maintenance of Public transportation vehicles.
We inspected the brakes on every regular Inspection( oil change and other tasks) was every 6000 miles or about every 20 to 30 work days..
We also had a separate brake inspection on a everyday basis where we pulled a specific group of vehicles thru on a daily basis to inspect only the brakes, basically ten percent of the fleet gets a brake inspection alone once every 2 weeks..
because a set of brakes only lasted somewhere between 12000 and 20,000 miles.
but that isn't how Joe the Homeowner Cap Operator needs to do it.
just like it isn't how the race crowd needs to do it.
I just check my brakes if I have the wheels off. Seems to be often enough.
