- Joined
- Nov 29, 2009
- Messages
- 9,521
Look at 350 rockets oil chart. Most of these charts are just recommendations. You can run 10w30 if you want still. His chart shows 10w30 and 10w50 in nearly the same temp ranges, makes no sense
How come they've moved away from the usual 10w30 they've required for years?
- Thread starter The motor guy
- Start date
You are correct. That Kohler chart is absolutely illogical and useless. I am very concerned that Kohler makes their own brand of oil, a multi-viscosity, when their engineers seem to have no understanding of the meaning of oil grading standards. One thing that is particularly annoying is that the chart indicates that 5W30 can only be used below 32 degrees F. Kohler should be ashamed.
I am sure Kohler have learned what blows up their AIR COOLED engines in durabilty testing. IlSAC automotive lubricants have only limited application on HD ODPE. such as low power push mowers and maybe small snow throwers.
They appear to really want you to pick their 10w50
- likely a bit of a "gimme" to the selling sealers.
Last edited:
- Joined
- Nov 29, 2009
- Messages
- 9,521
Kawasakis chart is just as dumb. They call their oil ktech. I can't get the chart to load
Nobody is getting rich off their weird oil!
- Joined
- Nov 29, 2009
- Messages
- 9,521
I don't get how they recommend a 20w50 down to 0 degrees f
- Joined
- Nov 29, 2009
- Messages
- 9,521
I always thought you weren't supposed to use oils with a big gap between numbers because the 10w50 will just shear down to a thinner oil over time. Maybe oils are better now and it's not a problem now
- Joined
- Nov 29, 2009
- Messages
- 9,521
what do you mean? You don't change it?
- Joined
- Nov 29, 2009
- Messages
- 9,521
Either one
I’ve never seen 20w50 suggested for a walk behind mower made within the last 20 years.
With air cooled riders on the other hand, I’ve seen 20w50 suggested on zero turn models. Lots of heat and loads compared to a typical tractor style riding mower I’d say.
He said in the post he quoted that he used M1 0w40 this last season.
I change them all once a year, but I don't look up what is recommended for them. Whatever oil is in the shop, is what they get. None of them are used a lot in a year, maybe 15 hours, so I just change the oil once a year.
Not true.
The fact is that you have it backwards, and even many engines that have an oil filter use splash lubrication.
They ONY problem a forum meber should have with lubing ODPE is when and how Rotella Triple Protect 10W30 disappeared about a year after the mid/low saps ILSAC lubricants hit the market "to protect after treatment devices" on pass cars. Rotella multi fleet used to be the universal go to oil around my parts. I didn't like their T5 SS at all for some reason.
It was a scramble but went with Valvoline racing Synthetic 10w30 at the time for my big chonda Generac - which would knock when warm with ILSAC 10w30. That quart of oil is being worked HARD! Dosed The valvoline racing with an oz of liquiMoly moS2. Worked great Smooth and quiet operation, easy starts. That same fill stayed in for 7 years and about 20 hours.
I don't own a riding mower. They need a decent HTHS. Porsche A40 spec or similar should be fine and is easy to find at Walmart.
It was a scramble but went with Valvoline racing Synthetic 10w30 at the time for my big chonda Generac - which would knock when warm with ILSAC 10w30. That quart of oil is being worked HARD! Dosed The valvoline racing with an oz of liquiMoly moS2. Worked great Smooth and quiet operation, easy starts. That same fill stayed in for 7 years and about 20 hours.
I don't own a riding mower. They need a decent HTHS. Porsche A40 spec or similar should be fine and is easy to find at Walmart.
We sell it. 30 and 40 weight. Some for older Detroits that are still hanging around.
- Joined
- Nov 29, 2009
- Messages
- 9,521
Oh yeah I forgot about that. I guess it doesn't come straight off the filter into the bearings like a car