Cracked open the knee wall. The 2x4 wall studs are about 22" apart, and I'm guessing the 2x6 rafters are similar spacing, but I forgot to measure. I'm basing this upon what looks to be the same 6 1/4" batting used on both to insulate. Wall uses a double 2x4 plate on top, rafters notched it looks like. Lots of condensation on the insulation, due to no vapor barrior on the outside of the house. Floor joists are about 3' down from the header/rafter joint.
The knee wall studs appear not to be structural: they are toenailed to the rafter, and did not appear to be directly above the joist. 18" away from the true wall. Seeing that gave me a thought:
What if I were to use say 1" thick plywood, cut to the 18" width of the knee wall, and overlapped it onto the rafter, knee stud and floor joist? 18" wide, that should give it a fair amount of rigidity. Sister up joists if need be. While not a great triangle it starts to approximate one. I could also make it a bit more than 18" wide, say setting a desk or drawers between the two or three required, thus making the most of the intrusion.
Hmm, I dunno; it places forces perpendicular to the grain. with a strong torsion/twisting at the joist/stud intersection.
The knee wall studs appear not to be structural: they are toenailed to the rafter, and did not appear to be directly above the joist. 18" away from the true wall. Seeing that gave me a thought:
What if I were to use say 1" thick plywood, cut to the 18" width of the knee wall, and overlapped it onto the rafter, knee stud and floor joist? 18" wide, that should give it a fair amount of rigidity. Sister up joists if need be. While not a great triangle it starts to approximate one. I could also make it a bit more than 18" wide, say setting a desk or drawers between the two or three required, thus making the most of the intrusion.
Hmm, I dunno; it places forces perpendicular to the grain. with a strong torsion/twisting at the joist/stud intersection.
