Honda generator ... How long for OCI?

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After the late winter storm here we have been without power for about 56 hours now. Our little Honda EU2000i has been running the whole time non-stop providing power for our pellet stove, lighting, refrigerator, tv, internet and (thank goodness) coffee!

The generator was bought new in '07 and has low hours with annual Mobil 1 15w-50 oil changes. My question is how long should I let it run before changing the oil?

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Because you asked:
- Honda's OCIs are predicated on "normal" oil considerations. Since you're running a syn, I would think you can go over 100 hour by a reasonable margin. I'd say, if running "non-stop", that once a week (168 hr) is no problem.

Although you didn't ask:
- I would also say that upon your OCI, you consider running a thinner lube. 10w-30 is a good compromise all around. The issue with a 50 grade in winter is that in an air-cooled unit like your genny, that oil likely never gets fully warmed to 200F or so (the desired temp). 10w-30 is a great "year around" vis; it's thin enough for winter and thick enough for summer. Stick with a syn in these applications; it will aid in the cold starts or summer heat. I mention all this because I once had to run my genny for 3.5 days, and upon restoration of power service I immediately did an OCI; I was surprised how cool the oil was to the touch. After running about 42 hours, the oil could be touched by bare hand when coming out of the crankcase. That means the oil wasn't warm enough. Because air-cooled engines have to shed enough heat in summer to not overheat, they tend to run too cool in winter. Using a thinner lube (less than a 50 grade) will probably aid in the splash lubrication these little units use.

Public Safety Notice:
- Also, I notice you have the pigtail of death there; a "suicide cord". Ya might consider re-doing that to a more safe condition; plenty of options out there on the 'net to get a proper generator cord hook-up. You don't want two live ends on a genny cord. I realize you probably know the dangers and know what you're doing, but it's too darn easy for someone else to get hurt who wouldn't recognize the danger.
 
Because you asked:
- Honda's OCIs are predicated on "normal" oil considerations. Since you're running a syn, I would think you can go over 100 hour by a reasonable margin. I'd say, if running "non-stop", that once a week (168 hr) is no problem.

Although you didn't ask:
- I would also say that upon your OCI, you consider running a thinner lube. 10w-30 is a good compromise all around. The issue with a 50 grade in winter is that in an air-cooled unit like your genny, that oil likely never gets fully warmed to 200F or so (the desired temp). 10w-30 is a great "year around" vis; it's thin enough for winter and thick enough for summer. Stick with a syn in these applications; it will aid in the cold starts or summer heat. I mention all this because I once had to run my genny for 3.5 days, and upon restoration of power service I immediately did an OCI; I was surprised how cool the oil was to the touch. After running about 42 hours, the oil could be touched by bare hand when coming out of the crankcase. That means the oil wasn't warm enough. Because air-cooled engines have to shed enough heat in summer to not overheat, they tend to run too cool in winter. Using a thinner lube (less than a 50 grade) will probably aid in the splash lubrication these little units use.

Public Safety Notice:
- Also, I notice you have the pigtail of death there; a "suicide cord". Ya might consider re-doing that to a more safe condition; plenty of options out there on the 'net to get a proper generator cord hook-up. You don't want two live ends on a genny cord. I realize you probably know the dangers and know what you're doing, but it's too darn easy for someone else to get hurt who wouldn't recognize the danger.
A. Thanks, good to know.

B. I'm still running what I used to run when I lived in Florida. I need to rethink some of my OPE oils now that I've moved north.

C. Yes, it's a widow maker cord. I'm aware of potential hazards and I plan to revamp my entire emergency power generation system with what I've learned from this prolonged outage.
 
I am not going to claim I know much about much, but I did a fair bit of reading on these small engines for my own generator, mostly from go cart forums where they push these little single cylinders to their limit. These little engines have no oil filter, and syn actually does a worse job of holding contaminants in suspension is my limited understanding. I don't think you can make an inference based on using syn in automotive engine to a small air cooled engine. I personally would stick to the factory OCI if it doesn't cause undue hardship, and I am all set up to do so with my generator if needed. It likely takes half a quart, and drains pretty easily.

I do doubt running over would do any catastrophic harm if it wasn't possible for whatever reason, but likely isn't ideal. Either way you should check the oil level daily if you can afford to turn it off - worst case scenario would be to run it low.

Don't forget to clean the air filter also - if its the foam type.
 
I have the same gen I've used for years. Just used it 2 days ago when we got hit with NorEaster. I change mine yearly with Mobil 1 0-40. These aren't tearing up oil. I worry more about plug and stale gas. Great little unit for camping.
 
100 hours, use conventional M1, 10W-30. That engine does not need much in the way of ZDDP, as it has a plastic camshaft integrated with the upper pulley, a timing belt, and flat sheet metal rocker arms. The cam is a large and has a wide single lobe. Simple and stone reliable.

The valve springs have amazingly low tension and the flat rocker arms put very little load on the cam lobe. As long as there is oil, the parts won't touch and there is no wear what so ever. Although it seems less than ideal, these parts last and last.

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I've run Mobil 1 10W-30 in mine for years. I'm switching to Mobil 1 5W-40 Turbo Diesel Truck for easier starts in the winter and better summertime protection.

Following the owner's manual, I wouldn't go over 100 hours on the oil. It holds so little oil, drain it out along with all the contaminates. If you must go longer because of an emergency situation, maybe pour it through a few coffee filters and use a magnetic drain plug to get any metallic debris out of it.
 
@dnewton3. I am unclear what you mean by the “suicide cord”. I assume you are referring to the danger when power is restored by the utility with the generator still running. I apologize for my ignorance.
 
@dnewton3. I am unclear what you mean by the “suicide cord”. I assume you are referring to the danger when power is restored by the utility with the generator still running. I apologize for my ignorance.
Usually when running power on a cable, you use a male plug to go into the power source, while on the other end a female end is used. That way it becomes "hard" to accidentally touch live copper contacts.

But in this case, backfeeding a house and not flipping the main breaker could leave the line going out from the house energized too. I'm not sure that the power line worker would consider that "suicide" so much as "murder" so I tend to think it's the explanation above as to the source of the name.
 
After the late winter storm here we have been without power for about 56 hours now. Our little Honda EU2000i has been running the whole time non-stop providing power for our pellet stove, lighting, refrigerator, tv, internet and (thank goodness) coffee!

The generator was bought new in '07 and has low hours with annual Mobil 1 15w-50 oil changes. My question is how long should I let it run before changing the oil?

IMG_2662-X4.jpg
What does the manual say? 50-100 hrs seems reasonable.

These things are tough. I can’t remember the specifics, but we had one at work that ran ~35 hrs a week for some temporary lighting from October until January when the cord broke. It never once had an oil change.

I personally wouldn’t go that long on my own equipment. I did offer to change the oil either at work or at my house with my own oil, but I was shot down.
 
The unit takes what 12 or 13 ounces of oil?

A 5 quart jug is less than $30 and gives you a dozen oil changes - so $2.50 per change.

I would change it every day - but no way I would go more than 2 days.

BTW - storing your gas next to your house and a couple feet from you running generator is a bad idea -

That is the shortest generator cord I have ever seen - and back feeding into a plug is also not a good idea.

I know I am OCD -

I have a proper interlock to plug my generator into
I store my gas in the shed 30 feet from the generator -
My generator is 20 feet from my house.
I change the oil every day when running continuously like when the power is out

Sorry if I am being an ass - but you are not as safe as you should be.
 
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Ive run 0w-40 in my honda 2K's for about 20 years and have run them off extended run tanks in moderate and weather for 8 days continuously dry camping and during power outages running furnace blowers and a few items as backups for friends that do not have a generator. (thats another story) These were moderate loads though and it was often idled down.


One of the awesome thing about that unit is that its got a fuel pump and can draw a vacuum and pull fuel quite a ways making hooking up extended run tanks easy.
 
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