Honda CRV misfire or tranny issue.

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refaller

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Ono, Pa
My dependable CRV has been doing some interesting things as of late. When I start in the morning after about 3/4 miles of driving I get to a stretch of road where I hit 40-45mph. At this stretch it feels as though the engine will misfire. That is also the speed at which the car attempts to lock the torque converter. I cannot tell for sure if the spuddering is from a misfire or the TCC locking/ unlocking rapidly. If I step on the gas, it downshifts and runs fine. The rest of the day, it will run fine (even on the same run). No codes either. I am debating replacing the TCC solenoid cause I would suspect an engine issue would have triggered the a code. Any advice?

ref
PS- 2000 CRV with 128,000 miles on it. Only issues have been transmission related- replaced the linear solenoid and shift solenoid on the transmission already. Those were easy to do and know what the problem was. Never had any issues with the engine. Replaced wires/ plugs/ distributor cap at 100,000 miles with the timing belt.
 
After the car is good and hot, does it still do this?
It may be simply that it is warm enough for the sensors to go to open loop, but is not warm enough in reality to handle it properly yet.
I think this is it, from your description.
 
mechtech,

Usually the temp gauge is reading normal by then, but I am sure the oil and transmission are not up to operating temps. In addition, when I leave 4 hours later this does not happen. I have had it happen a few times in other situations (2x to be exact), but every time over the past 2 weeks in the morning. Rest of the day, she runs fine.

Will see if I can find out a way to test the operation of the TCC solenoid and let you guys know. Thanks for the input.

ref

Forgot to mention that I tried changing the transmission fluid as well, but it happened after that.
 
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When I had similar problem and cleaned the IAP sensor and replaced the PCV valve, it became a lot smoother. Similar engine (B18B instead of B20) on an Integra, but not the same.

Try to isolate an exhaust leak as well. I replaced some exhaust manifold gaskets all the way down to the CAT, and that makes a huge difference in smoothness. You can test for leaks with some soap water spray.
 
Funny, I was gonna open up the valve cover and do an adjustment anyway. It is the infrequency of the occurrence and the exactness of the situation that confuses me. Today I was going to accelerate through so I would not be in 4th gear there- some idiot pulled out of a 7/11 and as I began to pass veered into my lane, I slowed (@42mph) and shudder. Does sound as though I hear something going on in the exhaust. Nothing on ride home- car runs smooth and sounds great at all other times.

ref

PS- Rainy and miserable today, but I can do the IAC and PCV tomorrow. Should be easy jobs.
 
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Update: I managed to get the IAC Valve cleaned and replaced the PCV (which was not moving), but the situation has gotten worse. Definitely not the TCC since it will do it at lower speeds now, but still only first thing in the morning. At 3:30am, spuddered most of the way to work at varying speeds and intervals (until you step on it), but it was fine at 8am. Still no codes- hoping it gets bad enough. Will do the valves probably on Friday weather permitting.

ref
 
If it got worse after IAC valve cleaning and replace PCV, maybe there is a leak somewhere (increasing even more air flow makes it worse).

Check if any rubber or manifold is cracked.
 
Finally got a code. Unfortunately it was P1399 which is a random misfire code. Have read multiple people with a valve adjustment solving it- I should have time on Friday to do so. Will let you know what happens. Thanks for the advice everyone.

ref
 
Adjusted valves, replaced fuel filter, O2 sensor and no change. Made an appointment for today, but on Saturday decided to change the plugs (which looked fine and only have @25,000 miles on them). Wouldn't you know, $5 bucks and 5 minutes solved the problem. I always tell people to check the easy things first, but I give advice better than listen to it. Thanks for the ideas.

ref
 
Good to see you were able to fix it. What plugs did you go with and what plugs did you have in there?

Miss my old CRV
frown.gif
It was a 2000 as well, rock solid truck, lacked torque but was a great truck. [censored] thieves took it off my drive way
frown.gif


All she got was Castrol GTX and Fram. BTW stay on top of valve adjustments and rear diff fluid change with dual pump fluid from Honda.
 
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Yeah, I love the car and have had no real problems- till this which ended up not being a problem. Just put in the cheap autolites from Walmart- 2 pack for 2.30 something. Don't remember what the last set was- might have been Bosch. Never had plugs go bad before- especially ones that looked fine.

I do the valve adjustments and rear differential. The rear diff is a pain to refill- I have a long tube now to make it easier. Overall, this has given me the most miles/ work put in than any vehicle- and I tend to abuse it. Just last week picked up so much mulch that I was on the stops in the back and my tires were toed out something wicked. Have carried a lot and it keeps on going.

ref
 
since you mentioned that plugs looked good - could it be that something wasn't sitting right or loose and it is now in place after the plug replacement ? Were the plugs and wires snug and tight when you pulled them out ?
 
Yeah, the plugs and wires were tight. Plus, I had them out at least twice to adjust valves and to replace rotor and the problem persisted. Interestingly, it misfired on the highway last night for a few seconds in a downpour up an incline. Still none in the old way so I don't know if it is a water issue or something different. Gonna drive me nuts if it continues.

ref
 
If it is water related, very likely it is the distributor, its cap, or its seal.

Take out the ignition coil and measure its resistance in 20C temperature or so. It should be about 20 ohms. If it is much lower, it is shot. When my ignition coil died, it has 10 instead of 20 ohms (should be the same one as yours since CRV and Integra use the same series of engine with different displacement).

If you are not sure, check the resistance of the coil at a part store with a new unit and compare.
 
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