Honda @ 90k w/only oil changes

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OK, my friend has a 01 Honda civic, 4cyl non-vtec with 90k. automatic
only maintenance has been 1 set of brake pads, air filter every 20k and oil changes every 3-5k religiously.
no current problems of any kind
trans fluid looks/smells like new

what should we be doing in the near future?
spark plugs?
replace rubber belts (2)
flush brakes?

what about the timing chain or something like that? how much would this timing chain replacement cost?
 
U should change that transmission fluid. It dont matter how it look. Theirs is no filter just drain and refill. No timing chain. Its a belt. Should change that and the water pump at the same time.
 
fathers toyota previa is like that at 180k!

probably a good time to start thinking about spark plugs, wires, distributor cap and rotor, etc.

If its a timing belt, its proably already overdue, get that done, and most likely the other belts will be free labor due to access. If its a chain, dont worry about it, but be sure the rubber belts are changed if theyre starting to look a little bit used up. Theye had an easy life and are young, so they may actually still be quite good, so you need to look them over carefully.

Brake flush should be done every 2 years, IMO, especially in ABS equipped cars. Ive never seen a car with brake fluid older than that which actually looked good in the reservoir.

Two things, which I would think about doing, and it does not matter if its a super reliable honda, or a totally crappy worthless car is to change the ATF and the coolant. 90K change intervals on ATF is a bad maintenance practice, even though it seems like the car must only see highway service. The other important one is the coolant flush and refill with OE coolant, so the additives stay beefed up.

Personally, I like to change the power steering fluid every few years, although it always comes out looking like new and I am not sure it has any benefit, given the nature of operation. But I figure its good practice. Make sure that honda PS fluid is used!

JMH
 
have to double check, but i think it is distibutorless ignition
would NGK plugs be good or would Champion coppers be better?
 
OiledMustangGT,

Honda usually hides a very detailed, and reasonably technical, Owners' Manual in the glove compartment. It lists the service items that are needed. The manuals usually include the complete instructions for changing the oil and filter, torque specs for things like the oil drain plug and part numbers for the recommended spark plugs. Have your friend look for the Owners' Manual, and make him/her get a new one if he/she tossed or lost it.

In recent years Honda has been recommending 3yr/45,000 mile changes for brake fluid and 105,000 mile/7yr timing belt changes for many models, but you need to check them out for the 01 Civic that you are interested in. Honda has also been recommending 7,500 to 10,000 mile OCIs (half that for servere service).

A timing belt with water pump replacement for a Honda in my area usually runs around $300 to $500.
 
quote:

Originally posted by BeltwayBandit:
OiledMustangGT,

Honda usually hides a very detailed, and reasonably technical, Owners' Manual in the glove compartment. It lists the service items that are needed. The manuals usually include the complete instructions for changing the oil and filter, torque specs for things like the oil drain plug and part numbers for the recommended spark plugs. Have your friend look for the Owners' Manual, and make him/her get a new one if he/she tossed or lost it.

In recent years Honda has been recommending 3yr/45,000 mile changes for brake fluid and 105,000 mile/7yr timing belt changes for many models, but you need to check them out for the 01 Civic that you are interested in. Honda has also been recommending 7,500 to 10,000 mile OCIs (half that for servere service).

A timing belt with water pump replacement for a Honda in my area usually runs around $300 to $500.


This is the best advice I've seen here. You'd be wise to follow it.
 
I owned a 2001 Civic LX 5 speed for a little over a year before selling it. This was the first year for the current design and Honda made some boo-boos with that model. The car spent more time in the shop than any car I've ever owned. Although the drive train was flawless and the car averaged 30-34 mpg, I had nothing but trouble with the car. Air conditioning, ball joints, struts, brakes all had to be replaced during the first year (under warranty but still a pain and very disappointing)and an intemittent CEL remained a mystery . Not to mention that god-awful bouncy rear suspension. I couldn't wait to get rid of it. I understand that Honda hastily made improvements to the car and subsequent models are much improved. I wasn't concerned about the "first year" stigma when buying the car because it was a Honda. I now drive a 2003 PT Cruiser with 22,000 miles which has been nearly perfect.
 
Use only NGK/Denso (be it copper, platinum, or iridium) plugs in hondas....trust me. At $2 a plug for NGK coppers, thats what i'd use even if you have to replace them sooner than plats or iridiums.
 
ill pass the info along

in the past simpler has always been better for my spark plugs. I think the basic NGKs will probably work best here
 
do you think changing the transmission fluid at 90k will cause trouble?

does anyone here know how to drain a civic transmission fluid. im guessing it is just a drain plug on these? or will i have to drop a pan + filter?
 
Not changing the ATF has a much greater chance of causing problems, especially if it has never been changed. You said that the ATF looked and smelled new, so it may have been changed once already.

Others have reported having a lot of difficulty removing the drain plug on Honda automatics during the first ATF change, even though the torque spec is usually quite low, e.g. around 30 to 35 lb-ft.

The transmission should only have a plug, no pan or filter. You might want to pick up a crush washer for the drain plug before you drain the ATF.

Good luck.
 
Hey Oiled,
How do you tell that if transmission fluid smells good? I have seen that comment on this board and am rather puzzled what is a "good" smell vs a "bad" smell.

Nobody seems to comment on engine oil smell, except that new GC smells like Gummy Bears (how cute). Why is that that transmission oil smell is significant?
 
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