you should consider one of these... They take the guess work out of sharpening for a very affordable price. Make sure you buy the correct one for your chain.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08H1PN1MG?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_3
Hit metal inside a 41inch red maple. Wish me luck.
- Thread starter Fordiesel69
- Start date
you should consider one of these... They take the guess work out of sharpening for a very affordable price. Make sure you buy the correct one for your chain.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08H1PN1MG?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_3
Yup! Highly recommend this tool. Most people that hand file, file way, way too deep, this tool keep you filing on the correct location of the chisel and takes the rakers down at the same time.
I usually take my chain off and file it in a vise as well to keep the setup as rigid as possible. The results are a chain that cuts just as good as when it was new every time.
I plan to step down to a 13/64th file when the teeth get to 50% remaining to prevent that.
I also have seen buckin billy ray pick up on the file to dress the top of the tooth on the last two or three swipes and I did this, we shall see how this works when I go to cut next time. It did exactly what it did in his video. Create a little sliver piece.
I also have seen buckin billy ray pick up on the file to dress the top of the tooth on the last two or three swipes and I did this, we shall see how this works when I go to cut next time. It did exactly what it did in his video. Create a little sliver piece.
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A slight lift on the last touch or two makes for a fine cut. It’ll pull nice curls when you get the technique down!
My struggle is too much sideways pressure when filing, lol
I have the Stihl version of that for my farm boss saw, it does work well.
I looked at the Stihl one for my Farm Boss, but I couldn't beat the Amazon price. I have 1 for my Farm Boss and 1 for my Ryobi pruning saw.
If I notice my saw is starting to cut curves, I will do 3 strokes on the dull side per tooth, which usually gets it back to straight enough.
It is amazing how many sharpenings you can do by hand before a chain is worn out. I think its been like 10 years on my current chains, and ~20 cords of wood.
Agreed on both counts! About the only time I need to hit my chains with a grinder sharpener is if I hit a rock or metal in the tree like the OP. I’ve been hand filing for years and have been able to get my chains sharper than new doing so.
Originally, I learned on a corded electric saw. Its chain was not forgiving of any dullness or you’d be there forever. I remember it cutting left over and over in some very tough shagbark hickory. I was so frustrated (and young) that I was going to go buy a new chain. An internet search showed I could sharpen my own chain and didn’t have to just replace it or take it to a shop when it needed sharpening. From there, practice made slightly better than mediocre
Update..... It cut real good. The wood was iced and frozen and I had lots of clutch stalls. I need to investigate that and may need to fatten up the H jet a bit as I am running a bit leaner than I want in this cold weather. Plus 11 degrees F.
As for the wood with the metal, I roasted my junk chain. And I mean roasted it. The cutters are almost gone.
But the chain in the photos survived this time.
As for the wood with the metal, I roasted my junk chain. And I mean roasted it. The cutters are almost gone.
But the chain in the photos survived this time.