High idle at start up

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My car a 1995 Nissan Altima : when I start it, after it has sat a while ...the idle is very high ...say around 2000rpm ( don't know for sure my tach is broken ) ...any suggestions for cause / cure ...after car is warm the idle does drop to normal 750 rpm ...
 
Not sure about Nissans, but all Hondas do this, especially when cold outside. Helps the catalytic converter heat up faster to reduce emissions. Usually takes about 30 seconds to 1 min for them to idle down to around 1000 rpm or less.
 
Same here, I have an Isuzu and a Toyota, both do the same when it's real cold, especially if they've sat for 2-or more days at a time.

Sounds normal to me.
 
huh...I only brought it up because the car never did it before about 2 months ago ...been doing it ever sense...oh well, I won't loose any sleep over it .
 
My 2005 Toyota Corolla as soon as you start it goes for 1600 RPM and stays there for at least 3-5 mins...

I drive it away after 30 secs and it's still on high idle by the time I get to the freeway.

60 miles later, it's around 800 rpm.

It's the same when it's 80 degrees or 8 degrees..

My truck (chev 4.8l V8) on the other hand its high idle is 1000 rpm and most the time it's 500-600 depending on temps..

Take care, Bill
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Higher idle on a cold start is normal.
The exact idle speed varies with each engine, but they all will gradually slow to a normal idle when warmed up.
This speeds warming and reduces emissions. The faster your ECU comes out of "open loop" the better.
 
While on this topic, when is it considered safe to shift into Drive with an Automatic?

My truck idles at 1000rpm's when cold, normal idle is 750 rpm's. I refuse to shift into "D" until it's either at 8-900 rpm's - but is that really necessary?

I've heard before that it wasn't good to shift into D at 1000rpm's or higher - truth or no??
 
Due to such differential in rotation speed, the greater the initial slippage upon cluch enguagement, could result in higher levels of localized heating and some further rubbing off of friction media. But then again I don't quite know how the fluid film between those surfaces may play on the thought of frictional heating and wear.

All the glove box manuals seem to say it's not a good thing to shift an auto transmission when rpms are high or still rolling in the opposite direction from which gearing one is to sellect. Such an extreme case of shifting into drive while still rolling backwards and gasing it, was demonstrated from a former classmate that resulted in the blow-out of his parent's car transmission.
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To the contrary, I have often read that one could shift down to a lower gear at any time, say to ulilize compressive braking when going down a steep grade, for it will automatically shift down through the gears as the vehicle slows. I remember doing this once on my first car and it was a rather harsh experience to say the least.

Sorry for the lack of technical experience.
 
My 92 Escort revs up when its cold. When I change oil, I do it hot and start it up as soon as I can. If I leave it sit draining and it gets cold, the engine really rattles untill the oil filter gets filled. Its like someones in the car holding the throttle down.
 
I have a couple of Subarus that idle a bit high right after starting and slow down after a few minutes. I tap the throttle lightly a couple times a few seconds after startup and idle goes right down to normal though sometimes it lopes a little for a few seconds afterward.
-Louis
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