HF impact wrench
- Thread starter redbone3
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I use mine when I rotate tires on my Honda and my wife's Nissan. I have had my HF electric impact about 8 or 9 years now and it works great. It sure makes the job a lot easier, even if all I use it for is tire rotations. Hopefully you will get the same good use out of yours. I also got the flipsocket set with nylon insulators to protect alloy wheels. I don't think HF makes the insulated ones any more but the regular flipsockets work well too. I remember I bought my impact and floor jack the same day. Mine is the old style yellow jack but I never had any problems with it and it still works great to this day.
Hi all,
Just know that using a Torque Stick to limit torque does not work.
Also GM said in it's November 2010 GM Tech Link news letter that techs must hand torque wheel nuts or they'll damage the studs.
See a good PDF on the subject:
BAD NEWS: TORQUE STICKS n’ IMPACT GUNS
https://app.box.com/s/g8s47dm0woyz65ybundz
Just know that using a Torque Stick to limit torque does not work.
Also GM said in it's November 2010 GM Tech Link news letter that techs must hand torque wheel nuts or they'll damage the studs.
See a good PDF on the subject:
BAD NEWS: TORQUE STICKS n’ IMPACT GUNS
https://app.box.com/s/g8s47dm0woyz65ybundz
I also have the electric one for a few years, works great. I also bought the cordless 1/2" and it is nothing short of amazing. I have expensive tools for hvac work, but both the HF impact wrenches have really impressed the heck out of me. I've removed the bed bolts from two older Tacomas, heavily rusted, with nooooo problem with the cordless one. Ivery removed suspension parts from my daughters 2007 pontaic, which requires some hefty torque, so they're keepers.
Hi all,
Impact wrenches to get stuff off fast is great, I do it all the time.
Using them to fully tighten wheel nuts on regular cars and SUVs not recommended (GM TechLink Nov 2010) and Torque Sticks don't work, they're a scam.
I have 1 old cordless impact wrench that maxes out at 80 Ft/lb, so I use it as a nut runner when pulling / putting wheels on the cars, then use a good click torque wrench for final torque, (100Ft/lb) after rotten dealer abused the wheel studs, snapping one last time and refused to replace them all !!!
Impact wrenches to get stuff off fast is great, I do it all the time.
Using them to fully tighten wheel nuts on regular cars and SUVs not recommended (GM TechLink Nov 2010) and Torque Sticks don't work, they're a scam.
I have 1 old cordless impact wrench that maxes out at 80 Ft/lb, so I use it as a nut runner when pulling / putting wheels on the cars, then use a good click torque wrench for final torque, (100Ft/lb) after rotten dealer abused the wheel studs, snapping one last time and refused to replace them all !!!
Originally Posted By: i_hate_autofraud
Hi all,
Impact wrenches to get stuff off fast is great, I do it all the time.
Using them to fully tighten wheel nuts on regular cars and SUVs not recommended (GM TechLink Nov 2010) and Torque Sticks don't work, they're a scam.
I have 1 old cordless impact wrench that maxes out at 80 Ft/lb, so I use it as a nut runner when pulling / putting wheels on the cars, then use a good click torque wrench for final torque, (100Ft/lb) after rotten dealer abused the wheel studs, snapping one last time and refused to replace them all !!!
I used a clicker for a while, but then I bought the HF torque wrench calibrator, and just use that on a breaker bar. I orient the readout upward, and can quickly run the lug to 30-60-90-120-150 or whatever pattern I wish, without changing any setting. [If I wanted to, I could change the beep setting from its current 80 ft-lb, but that'd require more work than just reading it.]
Hi all,
Impact wrenches to get stuff off fast is great, I do it all the time.
Using them to fully tighten wheel nuts on regular cars and SUVs not recommended (GM TechLink Nov 2010) and Torque Sticks don't work, they're a scam.
I have 1 old cordless impact wrench that maxes out at 80 Ft/lb, so I use it as a nut runner when pulling / putting wheels on the cars, then use a good click torque wrench for final torque, (100Ft/lb) after rotten dealer abused the wheel studs, snapping one last time and refused to replace them all !!!
I used a clicker for a while, but then I bought the HF torque wrench calibrator, and just use that on a breaker bar. I orient the readout upward, and can quickly run the lug to 30-60-90-120-150 or whatever pattern I wish, without changing any setting. [If I wanted to, I could change the beep setting from its current 80 ft-lb, but that'd require more work than just reading it.]
Try one of these and you wont touch a micrometer style clicker again. No need to zero after use, needs fewer calibrations, quick adjustment or just leave it set for wheels. I have one in 3/8 and 1/2 drive and don't use the clickers anymore.
I don't do it but you can even use them as a breaker bar for removing without damaging them or knocking them out of calibration.
http://www.tooltopia.com/precision-instruments-c2fr100f.aspx
http://www.tooldiscounter.com/ItemDispla...CFRAHhgod2hcCFA
I don't do it but you can even use them as a breaker bar for removing without damaging them or knocking them out of calibration.
http://www.tooltopia.com/precision-instruments-c2fr100f.aspx
http://www.tooldiscounter.com/ItemDispla...CFRAHhgod2hcCFA
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