i see. the profile is not irrelevant imo.
would it leak, probably not, is it correct, no.
good luck. it would seem you are going to have to compromise on something......
Help with brake line flare nuts
- Thread starter JHZR2
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would it leak, probably not, is it correct, no.
good luck. it would seem you are going to have to compromise on something......
Where would be the compromise? The line, flare and nuts are all correct, its all good.
JHZR2
Staff member
No need to compromise. Local part stores suck, they claim parts that aren’t correct.
I fixed the situation by ordering the right parts. Hopefully this weekend I can repair both sides and move on….
When I got frustrated with a similar situation I flirted with the Oreilly's guys until they let me in the back and I could paw through their stuff. What I wound up getting was, IIRC, kind of "army green" in color.
This is one of those moments where real life, bricks & mortar beat the internet. You know what you want, and you'll see it when you get it.
This is one of those moments where real life, bricks & mortar beat the internet. You know what you want, and you'll see it when you get it.
Talking about flare nuts got 'em going, eh? Well, it tracks I suppose.....
JHZR2
Staff member
I did exactly that at AAP. That’s where I saw that all their stuff is wrong, even their premade lines…
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Just clamp that s**/ down. It will seal. Don't overthink it.
JHZR2
Staff member
I figure it will, but it’s not right… and it’s brakes.
I figured they combined many part numbers and designs because it’s good enough. Doesn’t mean it is, overthinking or not..
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I'm with you in theory. In practice, the metal is soft and smooshes in. It's very possible that taper will form itself when tightened.
Did you receive the correct part? Interested to see how it comes from the factory.
JHZR2
Staff member
I’d suspect that the steel nut is much harder than the tubing. OE tubing looks to be coated steel, but still would bend/conform to a shape - I don’t get that such a situation is desired for the DIN bubble.
I have nicopp coming in the mail to replace. With a SS shield, and supposedly square shoulder DIN flare nuts…
JHZR2
Staff member
Well lookie here…
FedHill must smoke like a chimney. It smells like the cigar smoking area at the one range I’m a member of.
And yes, they’re squared inner diameter.
FedHill must smoke like a chimney. It smells like the cigar smoking area at the one range I’m a member of.
And yes, they’re squared inner diameter.
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Nice, I am impressed. If I recall correctly, you first cut the line to the right length, then flare the end, then install the flare nut. Oh wait, dang it!
That's what I do. I also crimp on ring terminals then slide the heat shrink on.....
JHZR2
Staff member
Well I didn’t do either of those things, but I’ll say that too much SS armor that needs to be cut off is a MAJOR pain. Ask me how I know.
JHZR2
Staff member
Well I got the job done. I got the FedHill nicopp Cunifer tubing made in the UK. Nice stuff. The ML came with coated steel.
I used OE MB unions that they allow per the FSM (one per corner).
Making a DIN flare with the Capri tool is very easy with nicopp. I did have one bad one with the OE steel.
Here is the steel flare, the first one was not fully formed and pulled on the clamped down tubing. But after that it was all good.
It wasn’t hard to form the rest of the nicopp line, though I did mess up lengths relative to curves and had to undo a bit. Took a lot of fitting and re-fitting, but I got it.
Because I was using softer nicopp line, I decided to put stainless braid in the exposed area. I made it too long, but the line was just right, couldn’t cut back off. So I had to grind off about four inches of the braid. Took forever. I was almost better off making a new line. So frustrating. Finally I found a cutter for fish hooks that kind of worked.
In the end it all worked out nicely. Bled by gravity and then by pressure.
My biggest lesson learned is to use an M10x1.0 plug at the ABS manifold, and don’t fiddle with doing work with leaking brake fluid all over. And also cap cut lines…
I used OE MB unions that they allow per the FSM (one per corner).
Making a DIN flare with the Capri tool is very easy with nicopp. I did have one bad one with the OE steel.
Here is the steel flare, the first one was not fully formed and pulled on the clamped down tubing. But after that it was all good.
It wasn’t hard to form the rest of the nicopp line, though I did mess up lengths relative to curves and had to undo a bit. Took a lot of fitting and re-fitting, but I got it.
Because I was using softer nicopp line, I decided to put stainless braid in the exposed area. I made it too long, but the line was just right, couldn’t cut back off. So I had to grind off about four inches of the braid. Took forever. I was almost better off making a new line. So frustrating. Finally I found a cutter for fish hooks that kind of worked.
In the end it all worked out nicely. Bled by gravity and then by pressure.
My biggest lesson learned is to use an M10x1.0 plug at the ABS manifold, and don’t fiddle with doing work with leaking brake fluid all over. And also cap cut lines…
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Very professional!
SammyChevelleTypeS3
$50 site donor 2023
In future if you can not find certain things, you may like this company that was started by twin Kryta brothers who restore Olds 442s for fun. They are award winners and have a passion for all sorts of automotive things. Inline tube sells lots of brake related parts , tubing etc.... (nice work by the way
)https://www.inlinetube.com/
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