Help With 6L80E Fluid & Pan Replacement

[Sierra048]

Originally Posted by 4WD
Originally Posted by tblt44
My 2 4l60e, I added drain plugs.
The auto parts store has them under 5 bucks.
Drill a hole and install the drain plug.
You MUST make sure nothing is behind the area you plan on putting the plug.
The nut and washer on the inside of the pan are probably 1/2 thick.
I will try to get pics later today


Used these several times … recommend replacing the nylon washer with copper washer.
First change I will suck some fluid from the dipstick tube, pull pan to clean magnets, add plug, and change filter.
After the first change I do drain & fill based on miles or time …


I plan on following the same schedule once I drop the pan and get the filter replaced. I ordered a steel bung with a plug and washer specifically designed for transmissions. Already talked to a welder who said he would charge me $20 to weld it on. So now, my only concern is getting the pan off, and back on again. Anybody else who has tackled this job please chime in and let me know what you did to overcome the exhaust pipe obstacle.

 

[Sierra048]

Thought I'd revive this thread instead on starting a new one and hoping some of the transmission gurus on BITOG can add some input.

I had to delay my transmission fluid replacement and pan mod because my wife had to head out of town for a while to deal with a sick, aging mother. It gave me more time to research and prepare. To pass the time I put the truck on my ramps and did a dry run of to look for any obvious problems I might encounter. Living where we live is a plus because rust is not a problem and all the bolts I might need to remove in a pinch look to be in great shape.

My question now concerns the transmission thermostat that was added by GM for the 2014 MY going forward. From what I understand the thermostat stays open until it reaches approximately 180 degrees then closes and forces the transmission fluid through the cooler in the radiator and external cooler if so equipped. I want to do a flush at the thermostat on the return line since it is easily accessible and simple to remove and replace. My question: With the way the thermostat is set up, at less than 180 degrees the thermostat stays open and the fluid just recirculates through the thermostat with maybe a small percentage being sent through the cooler at the same time until the thermostat closes and routes all the fluid through the cooler. Could someone please tell me if this is correct? I ask because I watched a Youtube video of a guy with a 2014 and he did exactly what I plan to do and he did it without the transmission fluid being up to temperature and he claims he was able to get 10 1/2 quarts out of his transmission. He got the first 5 1/2 quarts out by dropping the pan. He replaced the pan and that fluid. The last 5 he flushed from the return line at the thermostat. He never mentioned doing the thermostat bypass. How would it be possible to get the additional 5 quarts without the thermostat being closed rerouting the fluid to the cooler/coolers? I'm probably missing something here and I could use the help.

Also, since these transmissions before 2014 didn't have these thermostats, would bypassing the thermostat on 2014 and later models pose any problems. Does anyone know why they were added? Just seems to me it would take longer for the transmission fluid to get hot. Wouldn't that be a good thing? Has anyone done the bypass, or know of someone who did? Appreciate the help.

 

[wtd]

This is the weld in drain plug that I used on the transmission pan for my 14 Mustang GT. I actually bought a new pan since they were pretty cheap and used a step drill bit to drill the hole and then had a local shop weld it in.

I installed the pan and changed the fluid and filter last week and no leaks that I could tell. When I first had the plug welded in, I put transmission fluid in the pan and let it sit for a couple of days to make sure it wouldn't leak.

The transmission in my Mustang also has a thermostat and is why I just did the drop and refill without flushing because the transmission has to be up to a certain temp for the thermostat to open. I wouldn't even bother with a flush since you really don't have that many miles on the fluid.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Transmission-drain-plug-kit-weld-in-12mm-KIT-STEEL-BUNG-STEEL-PLUG-WASHER/153456521564?hash=item23bab8b15c:g:we8AAMXQVT9S6d3w

 

[wtd]

Here is the thread I posted with pictures of my pan if you haven't already seen it.

https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/foru...nny-fluid-on-2014-mustang-gt#Post5171168

 

[dave1251]

I do not worry about the ATF getting to operation temperature faster and add in the factor DEXRON VI is a 100 thousand mile fluid. ATF is like motor oil the quicker it gets to operation temperature the better and once it gets there the cooling system keeps it there without overheating.

 

[clinebarger]

Originally Posted by exranger06
Originally Posted by Sierra048
Originally Posted by exranger06
I was in the same situation as you. My '11 Escalade has the 6L80E and I wanted a pan with a drain plug. The only ones I found were the expensive ones. I ended up biting the bullet and just bought the PML one, as it was the cheapest one I could find. It wasn't anywhere close to cheap though. I don't know anything about the thermostat stuff. I just plan to pull the drain plug and refill every 40k or so. Dealing with the exhaust was a nightmare.


exranger06,

Would you mind sharing how you dealt with the exhaust?

I unbolted the Y-pipe from the manifolds to get the pipe to droop down. The nuts on the manifold didn't look rusty at all, and seemed to be in fantastic shape. I thought I would be able to remove them no problem. I've never been more wrong in my life. Turns out I needed to heat them up with my torch until they were cherry red, and even then they put up a fight and I gnarred up the threads on the studs. I was able to use a thread chaser on the passenger side manifold to fix those, but the driver's side had a stud that was beyond fixing. I had to remove the manifold from the truck to remove and replace the bad stud, and I used a thread chaser on the other two studs on that side.

I had also removed the clamp on the other end of the Y-pipe (I forget the exact reason why I did that; I apparently thought it was necessary, or at least would make things easier for me. However, it is not necessary.) That clamp was very rusted and I had to torch that off as well. I thought, "No big deal, I'll just get another one at the parts store for $11." Wrong again! It's a weird design clamp that no aftermarket company sells. I had to go to the dealer and pay about $50 for a new one!\

What was supposed to be an easy maintenance item that usually only takes a few hours turned into a nightmare job that spanned several days, which I have found is par for the course with this truck. Good luck.



Because you used hand tools......NEVER do that, Your asking the nuts to gall-up on the studs.

*Spray the down with PB Blaster. Let soak for a couple minutes & spray them down again.
*Using a 1/2" Impact, Bump them a few times 'til the nut starts to turn.
*Zip them right off.

If one or more is being difficult.....Don't just keep hammering on them as the stud will eventually break or it will Gall on you.....

*Heat the MANIFOLD right where the stud threads in.
*Using the impact....Extract the Stud & Nut, Replace with OE hardware!

 

[BlueOvalFitter]

Originally Posted by sloinker
I second the idea of welding/brazing in a bung with plug. I have had issues with the B&M plug retrofits that utilize the gasket.

What is a bung? Did you mean "thread o let?"

 

[Sierra048]

Originally Posted by wtd
This is the weld in drain plug that I used on the transmission pan for my 14 Mustang GT. I actually bought a new pan since they were pretty cheap and used a step drill bit to drill the hole and then had a local shop weld it in.

I installed the pan and changed the fluid and filter last week and no leaks that I could tell. When I first had the plug welded in, I put transmission fluid in the pan and let it sit for a couple of days to make sure it wouldn't leak.

The transmission in my Mustang also has a thermostat and is why I just did the drop and refill without flushing because the transmission has to be up to a certain temp for the thermostat to open. I wouldn't even bother with a flush since you really don't have that many miles on the fluid.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Transmission-drain-plug-kit-weld-in-12mm-KIT-STEEL-BUNG-STEEL-PLUG-WASHER/153456521564?hash=item23bab8b15c:g:we8AAMXQVT9S6d3w



Yes, that is the exact same drain plug I ordered.

 

[Sierra048]

Originally Posted by BlueOvalFitter
Originally Posted by sloinker
I second the idea of welding/brazing in a bung with plug. I have had issues with the B&M plug retrofits that utilize the gasket.

What is a bung? Did you mean "thread o let?"

No. I had never heard of a "thread o let". But looking at the picture, I guess if one could get the right threaded plug, and if it could be welded on the pan, It might work.

 

[Sierra048]

Thought I would resurrect this thread for a follow up after more than a month from my original post.

I had originally planned to get this accomplished the first week of August. Unexpectedly my MIL became ill and not long after passed away. After dealing with all that's involved in that situation, I was finally able to put this project back on the front burner. I already had everything I need parts wise, it was just getting psyched up again to deal with the pan removal due to the exhaust cross-over pipe mentioned earlier. I re-watched a lot of the videos on how others dealt with this issue until I was ready to tackle it. So I put the truck up on my ramps, gathered all the tools I would need to ratchet the exhaust down, jack the transmission up etc... I removed all the pan bolts except the two under the exhaust that I loosened so I could drain the most ATF I could to lessen the mess I was sure I was going to make. I finally remove the last two bolts, expecting the pan to drop and catch on the exhaust pipe like every video I saw, and it fell right off into my catch pan.

There was obviously just enough space between the exhaust pipe and the pan for it to clear. I can't describe the elation I felt with that outcome. It still made for a nasty cleanup but I gladly tidied up afterwards knowing I didn't have to fight the exhaust. I must be one lucky fellow.

If anyone is wondering what fluid I used, it was:

https://www.chevronlubricants.com/en_us/home/products/havoline-full-synthetic-multi-vehicle-atf.html

I had planned on doing a flush via the atf return line but decided to just replace the filter and refill since I had my new drain plug welded onto the pan. I buttoned everything back up and took my wife for a 60 mile round trip run to the grocery store. Transmission shifted nice and smooth. Now I have a question. I replaced exactly 6 quarts with the pan drop. I can now easily drain the pan and was wondering if 60 miles is a long enough drive for me to do another and remove even more of the old fluid. If I do drain another six quarts out and replace it, how much of the old fluid will remain? The transmision holds approximately 12.2 quarts.