Help Diagnosing Oil Burning - Toyota 22RE

[AdmiralYoda]

I have a 1987 Toyota 4Runner with a 22RE that has 99k miles. Engine has around 150k. I've owned it since 2000 but it has sat for a significant amount of time twice. Once from 2001-2013 in storage as the body needed lots of work. Did all the body work, had it painted and drove it for 5k miles then it went back into storage again from 2015 to early 2024. Life got in the way.

I'm driving it regularly now and it is burning oil...to the tune of about a quart every 700 miles. I don't remember it burning excessive oil in the past and I'm trying to figure it out.

Some info/observations:

1. 10 years ago I put a new OEM PCV valve, grommet and hose on there. Still in great shape and the PCV rattles freely.
2. I've always done short OCI's with synthetic oil. No obvious signs of sludging or loaded filters.
3. Plenty of power (for a 22RE), great gas mileage, idles great, no vacuum leaks. No oil leaks either.
4. Does not produce visible smoke! Not at start up, no matter how long it has sat. Not at full throttle. Never.
5. Tailpipe is sooty, so oil is clearly being burnt. The oil gets dark quick too.
6. Have performed an extended B12 soak, and ran a can of BG EPR in there twice after short OCI's. No change in oil consumption.

 

[AdmiralYoda]

A compression and leak-down test would be very valuable but can't happen at the moment. When replacing the plugs a month ago after an extended B12 soak one of the plugs went in real tough. The next time it comes out I am probably going to heli-coil it. A potential can of worms I'm not willing to deal with this second.

Last Thought....
The 4Runner has a 5-spd manual. If I have the rear liftgate glass down I can SMELL smoke when decelerating when in gear. Under this high vacuum situation it might imply that oil is being sucked into the combustion chamber through the valve seals....or potentially past the rings.

Considering I did an extended B12 soak and a run of BG EPR twice, I'd like to think the oil control rings aren't coked up and frozen. I'm either thinking the cylinder walls are worn, the rings are shot, or my valve guide seals are dried out. But usually you'll see some smoke at start-up from leaking valve guide seals, no?

I'm asking for your opinions. Any thoughts?

 

[trd1zz]

Borescope inspect the cylinder walls

 

[AdmiralYoda]

Borescope inspect the cylinder walls

Agreed that this is a good idea, but I'm not going to touch cylinder #2 as the spark plug went in real rough after the last B12 soak. Probably going to need a heli-coil, which I'm not willing to attempt at the moment.

 

[trd1zz]

Yeah but you can do the other ones at least. If they are damage it's time to look for a new motor. If not then proceed with a proper tear down inspect rebuild if you are serious about driving this regularly

 

[FZ1]

I have a 1987 Toyota 4Runner with a 22RE that has 99k miles. Engine has around 150k. I've owned it since 2000 but it has sat for a significant amount of time twice. Once from 2001-2013 in storage as the body needed lots of work. Did all the body work, had it painted and drove it for 5k miles then it went back into storage again from 2015 to early 2024. Life got in the way.

I'm driving it regularly now and it is burning oil...to the tune of about a quart every 700 miles. I don't remember it burning excessive oil in the past and I'm trying to figure it out.

Some info/observations:

1. 10 years ago I put a new OEM PCV valve, grommet and hose on there. Still in great shape and the PCV rattles freely.
2. I've always done short OCI's with synthetic oil. No obvious signs of sludging or loaded filters.
3. Plenty of power (for a 22RE), great gas mileage, idles great, no vacuum leaks. No oil leaks either.
4. Does not produce visible smoke! Not at start up, no matter how long it has sat. Not at full throttle. Never.
5. Tailpipe is sooty, so oil is clearly being burnt. The oil gets dark quick too.
6. Have performed an extended B12 soak, and ran a can of BG EPR in there twice after short OCI's. No change in oil consumption.

What viscosity U runnin'?

 

[AdmiralYoda]

What viscosity U runnin'?

Historically a synthetic 10W-40 or 15W-40, whatever was on sale at Walmart. Running synthetic blend Delo 400 15W-40 in it right now since I'm doing a short OCI. This weekend I might change it over to 20W-50 for the fun of it.

These motors have low oil pressure at idle by design. Toyota recommends a 5/10W-30 for less than 50F, and usually -40 or -50 in summer temps.

 

[FZ1]

Historically a synthetic 10W-40 or 15W-40, whatever was on sale at Walmart. Running synthetic blend Delo 400 15W-40 in it right now since I'm doing a short OCI. This weekend I might change it over to 20W-50 for the fun of it.

These motors have low oil pressure at idle by design. Toyota recommends a 5/10W-30 for less than 50F, and usually -40 or -50 in summer temps.

Some have had reduced oil burning using Valvoline Restore and Protect oil. .02

 

[Danno]

That's my call, run Valvoline Restore and Protect, see if it helps.

 

[AdmiralYoda]

@FZ1 and @Danno, normally I would agree but 5W-30 doesn't seem appropriate for a 40~ish year old engine with high miles, considering that Toyota spec'd 5W-30 for cold temps when the engine was new. Clearances are sure to be greater in the engine now.

If the esters in VRP would help well the valve seals, if they are the problem, I'd rather use a thicker oil and use an additive. Or go straight to HPL....but burning through a quart every 2 weeks can get $$$.

 

[Pablo]

"4Runner with a 22RE that has 99k miles. Engine has around 150k"

Explain this to me like I'm an idiot - it's possible I didn't read some part, which also makes me an idiot.

Thanks!

 

[AdmiralYoda]

"4Runner with a 22RE that has 99k miles. Engine has around 150k"

Explain this to me like I'm an idiot - it's possible I didn't read some part, which also makes me an idiot.

Thanks!

I got the 4Runner as a winter beater back in 1999 for dirt cheap. The body was rusty and the engine was cooked because it overheated and blew the head gasket, going full milk shake.

I put a junkyard engine in it and I "think" it had about 120k on it when I got it. I've put about 30k on it since I since.

I have no idea as to the maintenance history of the engine prior to me putting it in and have no idea how well it was treated. And honestly... I was 18 and eager to put the engine in and my memory might be deceiving me. For all I know it has 200k or more miles on it.

It has never really gone through oil until last year when I started driving it again. Last year was intermittent joy-drives and a handful of 100 mile highway round trips. This year I've been putting 200+ miles on it a week and it has been going through a quart every 500-750 miles. Seems to vary and I haven't been very scientific as to how I keep track of it.

 

[Danno]

@FZ1 and @Danno, normally I would agree but 5W-30 doesn't seem appropriate for a 40~ish year old engine with high miles, considering that Toyota spec'd 5W-30 for cold temps when the engine was new. Clearances are sure to be greater in the engine now.

If the esters in VRP would help well the valve seals, if they are the problem, I'd rather use a thicker oil and use an additive. Or go straight to HPL....but burning through a quart every 2 weeks can get $$$.

5W-30 should be no issue with that age and miles. VRP has some special sauce going on. Worth a try imo, even if it is a few $.