If you saw my thread yesterday, you saw that my truck was stalling bad and idle was rough. Took it to Autozone last night and after reading codes, came up with the Idle Air Control Valve, which, after some research at AZ, we deduced it did not have one.The guy at AZ was one of the nicest, most helpful guys I have ever met at an auto parts store, very impressed. Anyways, back to the problem. We figured out it was the TPS (Throttle position sensor) I bought a new one and went home to change it. Took off the top screw on the TPS, no problem. But of course, with my luck, somebody at the Ford factory put Loctite on the screws and the bottom one would not come out. Eventually my dad and I broke it (Not on purpose), and the screw is broken off in the hole. So, I secured it with one screw and it was holding well, but I'm planning to take it somewhere today to get the old screw drilled out. A job that should have taken me 5 minutes has now taken 1 1/2 hours, not including an hour at AZ. Not a good night. Anyone else ever have a problem like that?
Hardest (Yet easiest) thing I have ever changed
- Thread starter renegade_987
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Originally Posted By: renegade_987
Anyone else ever have a problem like that?
Anyone who's ever wrenched on cars, I'm sure.
Don't ask me about ever doing a 1.8T timing belt & thermostat again... first time doing one and while it was done right, it took me the better part of 12 hours spread over 3 days. That being said it would probably take 1/5th the time now as I've had experience with what a PITA it could be.
Anyone else ever have a problem like that?
Anyone who's ever wrenched on cars, I'm sure.
Don't ask me about ever doing a 1.8T timing belt & thermostat again... first time doing one and while it was done right, it took me the better part of 12 hours spread over 3 days. That being said it would probably take 1/5th the time now as I've had experience with what a PITA it could be.
Originally Posted By: scurvy
Originally Posted By: renegade_987
Anyone else ever have a problem like that?
Anyone who's ever wrenched on cars, I'm sure.
Don't ask me about ever doing a 1.8T timing belt & thermostat again... first time doing one and while it was done right, it took me the better part of 12 hours spread over 3 days. That being said it would probably take 1/5th the time now as I've had experience with what a PITA it could be.
For me it was the serpentine belt on my old S4. Somehow it's quoted as a 3 hour job. Took me closer to 8.
Originally Posted By: renegade_987
Anyone else ever have a problem like that?
Anyone who's ever wrenched on cars, I'm sure.
Don't ask me about ever doing a 1.8T timing belt & thermostat again... first time doing one and while it was done right, it took me the better part of 12 hours spread over 3 days. That being said it would probably take 1/5th the time now as I've had experience with what a PITA it could be.
For me it was the serpentine belt on my old S4. Somehow it's quoted as a 3 hour job. Took me closer to 8.
The twenty minute TWO HOUR!!! job. Watched a friend drop the wing nut securing his air cleaner cover down into the manifold once.
seems like out of all the vehicles ive worked on fords are the ones i have the most issue with. breaking bolts and what not. maybe its a coincidence but sure seems consistent.
Originally Posted By: scurvy
Originally Posted By: renegade_987
Anyone else ever have a problem like that?
Anyone who's ever wrenched on cars, I'm sure.
Don't ask me about ever doing a 1.8T timing belt & thermostat again... first time doing one and while it was done right, it took me the better part of 12 hours spread over 3 days. That being said it would probably take 1/5th the time now as I've had experience with what a PITA it could be.
Yeah. Currently working on changing the CHRA (turbo cartridge) on my wife's Saab 9-5. Not a lot of room as it's a transverse V-6. The old CHRA was spewing oil into the intake tract, so it had to go. Haven't broken anything yet, but this is an insanely complicated job, about half of which is done from under the car, and the other half from above. Thought it would take a day or two, but I've been on it for a couple of weeks now, although part of that was due to slow shipping of the new cartridge. I think I'm going to make it.
In the past, I've definitely broken off a few bolts, some of which I've fortunately been able to get out with vise-grips. One needed the drill and heli-coil treatment.
Originally Posted By: renegade_987
Anyone else ever have a problem like that?
Anyone who's ever wrenched on cars, I'm sure.
Don't ask me about ever doing a 1.8T timing belt & thermostat again... first time doing one and while it was done right, it took me the better part of 12 hours spread over 3 days. That being said it would probably take 1/5th the time now as I've had experience with what a PITA it could be.
Yeah. Currently working on changing the CHRA (turbo cartridge) on my wife's Saab 9-5. Not a lot of room as it's a transverse V-6. The old CHRA was spewing oil into the intake tract, so it had to go. Haven't broken anything yet, but this is an insanely complicated job, about half of which is done from under the car, and the other half from above. Thought it would take a day or two, but I've been on it for a couple of weeks now, although part of that was due to slow shipping of the new cartridge. I think I'm going to make it.
In the past, I've definitely broken off a few bolts, some of which I've fortunately been able to get out with vise-grips. One needed the drill and heli-coil treatment.
Welcome to auto mechanics. This is exactly why I usually don't work on other people's cars. You never know what might go wrong, it takes much longer than expected, costs more than expected, etc.
I was working on my Accord's AC last year. I tried unbolting the line on the condenser to change the O-ring and the bolt snapped off. Got a new condenser. While changing the condenser, discovered my radiator was leaking. So a new radiator went in.
I was installing a new radiator in a Bronco and the metal transmission lines were rusted in place. By the time I got the lines off, the ends were FUBAR. I got some 5/16" brake line, unions, and tube nuts, cut and flared the lines, and made some patch lines to go to the radiator. That was the first time I ever used a flaring tool, and I couldn't seem to get the hang of it. The fittings leaked, so I had to bring it to a shop and had them re-flare them. That job took two days longer than expected.
I have to replace ball joints on my Explorer. I'm sure that's going to be a rusty nightmare and will take me a few days longer than expected to do. Not looking forward to it.
I was working on my Accord's AC last year. I tried unbolting the line on the condenser to change the O-ring and the bolt snapped off. Got a new condenser. While changing the condenser, discovered my radiator was leaking. So a new radiator went in.
I was installing a new radiator in a Bronco and the metal transmission lines were rusted in place. By the time I got the lines off, the ends were FUBAR. I got some 5/16" brake line, unions, and tube nuts, cut and flared the lines, and made some patch lines to go to the radiator. That was the first time I ever used a flaring tool, and I couldn't seem to get the hang of it. The fittings leaked, so I had to bring it to a shop and had them re-flare them. That job took two days longer than expected.
I have to replace ball joints on my Explorer. I'm sure that's going to be a rusty nightmare and will take me a few days longer than expected to do. Not looking forward to it.
Kestas
Staff member
I once busted the plastic end of a fuel line changing the fuel filter. The 20 minute job cost me six hours, and it wasn't my car.
Originally Posted By: exranger06
Welcome to auto mechanics. This is exactly why I usually don't work on other people's cars. You never know what might go wrong, it takes much longer than expected, costs more than expected, etc.
Well, mechanics and dealers have all the special tools. I've found that I could do a lot of work in half the time if I had some special extension, slim-fit whatever, or custom tool.
Welcome to auto mechanics. This is exactly why I usually don't work on other people's cars. You never know what might go wrong, it takes much longer than expected, costs more than expected, etc.
Well, mechanics and dealers have all the special tools. I've found that I could do a lot of work in half the time if I had some special extension, slim-fit whatever, or custom tool.
Stripped brake bleeders. That's all.
Ever have a problem like that?
In the Chicago rust belt area, a billion times.
In the Chicago rust belt area, a billion times.
I hated changing belts on my moms 02 Mazda 626 4cyl. A close second was when I had my dodge ram with a 24v cummins. The injection pump went out (if you own one, you probably know all about this) and I replaced it. However, when I went to slide the new one in place, I knocked the key out trying to get the pump into the gear and it fell down in the timing case. couldn't be sure if it made it all the way down into the oil pan where it wouldn't have hurt anything, so I had to take the front of the engine apart and I found it lying on top of the power steering pump gear. That would have sucked
Oh, and I'm a mechanic for a living too Usually goes ok at work, but seems everytime I work on my own stuff, it all goes to [censored]
Usually goes ok at work, but seems everytime I work on my own stuff, it all goes to [censored]
The TPS screws on my old Hyundai Elantra. Trying to get a screwdriver into those innocent-looking screws was an exercise in frustration, and took a good hour or so. Changing bulbs was a PITA on that car, too.
Doing spark plugs on our Honda is also a royal PITA. Whoever decided that taking off the windshield wipers to get at the spark plugs deserves to be shot.
Doing spark plugs on our Honda is also a royal PITA. Whoever decided that taking off the windshield wipers to get at the spark plugs deserves to be shot.
Originally Posted By: afoulk
Oh, and I'm a mechanic for a living too Usually goes ok at work, but seems everytime I work on my own stuff, it all goes to [censored]
What he said...
Originally Posted By: sciphi
The TPS screws on my old Hyundai Elantra. Trying to get a screwdriver into those innocent-looking screws was an exercise in frustration, and took a good hour or so. Changing bulbs was a PITA on that car, too.
An extra long screw driver and pushing in really hard will get them out. They're in there with thread locker too...
Oh, and I'm a mechanic for a living too
Usually goes ok at work, but seems everytime I work on my own stuff, it all goes to [censored]
What he said...
Originally Posted By: sciphi
The TPS screws on my old Hyundai Elantra. Trying to get a screwdriver into those innocent-looking screws was an exercise in frustration, and took a good hour or so. Changing bulbs was a PITA on that car, too.
An extra long screw driver and pushing in really hard will get them out. They're in there with thread locker too...
Something to try with threadlocker is heat. I seem to remember a friend (who's work I respect) once mentioned heating fasteners that were treated with threadlocker, to soften the threadlocker. He has a saying that often come to mind "heat is your friend".
And, yeah, I know this come a bit late. I'll probably find myself in the same situation and think "Gee, I should have tried heat..."
And, yeah, I know this come a bit late. I'll probably find myself in the same situation and think "Gee, I should have tried heat..."
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Exact same thing happened when I tried to replace the TPS on my 2006 3.0L Ranger (no codes, just had small quiver at idle, and still does). Ford used phillips screws when they should have used bolts. I spent about 4+ hours, should have taken 15 minutes. Ended up using a chisel, hammer, & vice-grips to get the screws to turn, and had to soak it all down with WD-40 and PB blaster overnight, but got-ur-done. Both screws were bent and had to be replaced. Shame on you, Ford.
Oil filter on a '61 Buick I got from my parents about 6 years ago. I had no wrench that would do it, and didn't know what would fit. I bought and tried a lot of different wrenches trying to turn it without resorting to puncturing it, knowing that a puncture would weaken it structurally. Finally, in frustration after weeks of trying, I punctured it.
I think I remember peeling it back with Knipex pliers until I was down to just the base plate before I could get a pick or screwdriver wedged against the holes to hammer it loose. There was nothing left of that filter.
An interesting twist: This guy makes a custom spanner to remove the base plate, after you peeled off everything but the base plate. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RGZea0w20H0
I think I remember peeling it back with Knipex pliers until I was down to just the base plate before I could get a pick or screwdriver wedged against the holes to hammer it loose. There was nothing left of that filter.
An interesting twist: This guy makes a custom spanner to remove the base plate, after you peeled off everything but the base plate. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RGZea0w20H0
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