Hard Drive reliability over the long term

I will mention that anyone running any type of hardware RAID it is imperative that consistency checks be run at least monthly or IAW the vendors recommendations.

The remapping as described above works well as long as the data can be read (as in a mirror) from the other drive. If this drive data isn't validated on a regular basis (consistency check), you will be in for a big surprise.

Dell's hardware RAID best practices recommend that, but their supplied controllers lack any way to schedule these checks; it must be done @ the OS level.

A failure to read the redundant data results in a RAID puncture and I'll be dealing with one on a 8 disk RAID 10 array in two weeks, where 3 drives ended up performing extensive remaps.and losing data.
 
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Hey Cujet, I'll share what I've learned so far. I'm looking to purchase a high quality external single enclosure and install my own HDD. This eliminates any encription that some off the shelf external drives have, I can access the HDD easy if the enclosure fails, and I can choose which "better" HDD I want. Enclosures I'm considering are fanless Oyen Digital and OWC. I'm interested in G Technology and Glyph, but they don't offer bare enclosures. I'll probably choose between WD Black and Seagate Baracuda Pro not over 2TB.

Compare the specs. of the 5 year warranty Seagate Baracuda Pro to the WD Black. The Seagate equals and/or often wins in every category: speed, error recovery, etc.. The WD Blacks above 1 TB use a lot more watts, which translates to heat, a concern for my use.
WD Black Specs: http://products.wdc.com/library/SpecSheet/ENG/2879-771434.pdf
Seagate Baracuda Pro Specs: https://www.seagate.com/www-content/datasheets/pdfs/barracuda-pro-14-tb-DS1901-9-1810US-en_US.pdf

The problem I am having about Seagate is to get over the stigma bias surrounding their alleged failure problems. I find it hard to believe that HDD's are not commodity items with similar failure in all brands. Comments??

Maybe ask here about the hybrid SSD-HDD drives for reliability. FireCuda is Seagate's model. SSD for fast bootup, etc., and HDD for reliable storage. Comments?
https://www.seagate.com/www-content...cuda/files/firecuda-ds-1903-1-1606us.pdf Edit: a quick search at Tom's Hardware seems to show they are a niche product and you can do better with a separate SSD/HDD combo, space permitting.
 
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My luck with SSD hard drives took a turn today. An SSD drive is giving me disk error 7 message in the event viewer. \Device\Harddisk0\DRO. It states it has a bad block. The drive I'm referring to is in a laptop which sees little use. I will do some further testing. Having said that, I had much longer life from a regular HDD which easily lasted 3-5 times that in everyday use. I will refrain from posting the SSD mfg until further testing is done.
 
Originally Posted by demarpaint
My luck with SSD hard drives took a turn today. An SSD drive is giving me disk error 7 message in the event viewer. \Device\Harddisk0\DRO. It states it has a bad block. The drive I'm referring to is in a laptop which sees little use. I will do some further testing. Having said that, I had much longer life from a regular HDD which easily lasted 3-5 times that in everyday use. I will refrain from posting the SSD mfg until further testing is done.


You just reminded me to look through my old Vertex 3 and Agility 3 from OCZ and they're still fine! I found some of my old music on there still hah.
 
Originally Posted by demarpaint
My luck with SSD hard drives took a turn today. An SSD drive is giving me disk error 7 message in the event viewer. \Device\Harddisk0\DRO. It states it has a bad block. The drive I'm referring to is in a laptop which sees little use. I will do some further testing. Having said that, I had much longer life from a regular HDD which easily lasted 3-5 times that in everyday use. I will refrain from posting the SSD mfg until further testing is done.


SSD needs to be powered on once in a while (at least once a year) to let it run through a background data refresh operation. If you turn it off and put it in the drawer for 3 years all the data will be gone.

HDD usually design to have a power off data retention for years, SSD not.
 
I've found most HGST drives to be great. Many of the newer WD datacenter drives are essentially HGST drives. The only drives I would avoid currently are SMR based drives like the Seagate Archive and Exos series as well as some of their less expensive desktop drives. There are some new, lower capacity WD Red drives that are also SMR - which seems like a bad idea - I wouldn't think NAS and SMR should be combined. If you aren't familiar with SMR technology, they increase areal density by shingling the tracks over one another. This should be fine, but if you need to make a change, the drive needs to read the tracks in the area, make the change, and re-write the affected tracks, causing a significant performance hit to random write operations. They typically have enough cache to make this less noticeable, but if you do any significant amount of non-sequential writes, your write speed will drop to almost nothing. I would also expect error recovery to be more difficult with shingled tracks.

I try to buy enterprise grade 7,200 rpm drives. Enterprise grade SATA drives will work fine for most desktop work, they are rated to have a lower read rate - but that might just be marketing. The issue you hopefully won't run into is that they don't spend much time on error recovery before moving on to the next operation. I have no qualms with Seagate, HGST or WD at that level. I consider WD Black and Red Pro drives to be Enterprise quality as well as Seagate's Ironwolf Pro. I don't see failures with today's larger drives like what we used to see with the 1.5 to 3TB drives of Seagate's past. I tend to pull them out of use after about 5 years. My only real concern with large drives is the long rebuild time in an array, which isn't an issue for desktop use.

None of the drives are perfect. .1% failure rate is great until you are that .1%, MTBF numbers are almost useless for single drive scenarios. My best recommendation, regardless of what you buy, is to backup your photos to a cloud storage provider of some sort, as well as multiple local backups. The more backups, the better. I keep my family photos and important documents on my local machine on a 1.8TB drive, which is duplicated to a SAN with a multi-drive RAID array. I also make quarterly backups to rotating drives that sit on the shelf when they aren't being backed-up to. And of course, the cloud. If your house burns down or gets flooded or blown away, you'll still be able to get your photos back from Apple, Google, or Backblaze.

Something else to keep in mind. People talk about how unreliable external drives are - and that is true, but I think a lot of that has to do with handling. Internal drives don't get touched once they are installed. External drives get knocked over, dropped, unplugged and moved while the discs are still spinning, heads flying, etc. The things I've seen people do with external drives is mind boggling, which is why I am now more inclined to recommend something like a Samsung T5 external SSD for regular external use - much less likely to be damaged during handling.

SSDs are awesome for the OS - life changing, really. They are also great for backups due to speed, but not as the only backup.

I know this is a lot of words, but maybe some of them will be useful.
 
The HGST branded drives that we all love were rebranded around 2018, so while that is probably an excellent drive, since it still has HGST branding on it, it has most likely been on a shelf for 2+ years - they have the MFG date printed on them if you happen to get one. WD took over and continued making many of the HGST drives. The WD Gold 4TB drive you mentioned in your original post is probably a newer version of that HGST drive you mentioned above. WD sold it as the WD Gold initially, replacing their older Gold drive, and then continued to sell it as the WD Ultrastar.


For your use, I would be more inclined to buy a WD Black drive, the 2TB would be a WD2003FZEX - and call it a day. They are quieter at idle than the HGST Ultrastar, and while it may not have the same reliability numbers, it is close, and probably about the best 7,200 RPM desktop drive on the market. Since you will be using a single drive, it may be beneficial to have the better error recovery of a non-enterprise drive, and also not have the noise of background surface scans. Be aware that Newegg is not known for great packaging, and I prefer to buy from Newegg direct than from 3rd party sellers on Newegg.
 
Cujet, for what it's worth (I research stuff to the nth. degree), I decided to go with the WD Black for my situation. When comparing drives, I attempted to evaluate them as "good, better, best", which is not applicable in this case. Yes, the enterprise class drives have the very best reliability specifications. But they are designed to be used in large NAS/Raid server applications, running 24/7, more vibration, more heat, etc.. The Black is designed more for your desktop application, it still has the 5 year warranty, and it is supposed to be better than the blue, which now-a-days is just a relabeled green (WD consolidated their lineup).

HGST would have been the obvious choice 10 years ago. HGST does not exist anymore, so you cannot rely on those Backblaze reviews entirely (note CBR's explanation of WD/HGST).

Seagate vs. WD? The difference between the two are probably not significant, IMO, depending on models. But the internet bias still sways towards WD just a bit.
 
Originally Posted by doitmyself
Thanks CBR.worm. There is a flurry of current internet articles about WD ,Seagate, and Toshiba using SMR drives in their product lines without being transparent to it's customer base: https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-1-d&q=SMR+based+drives

One recent example: https://www.tomshardware.com/news/sneaky-marketing-toshiba-seagate-wd-smr-drives-without-disclosure


From what I heard this hit the hardest on the WD Red to be used in a NAS in raid timing out. Single drive is fine and so is reliability. Also from what I heard below 4TB is not impacted.
 
Hard drives are hit and miss no matter the brand.

My first hard drive was 1.2GB WD. I've gone through dozens of hard drives over the years usually bought on price point - mostly Maxtor (now defunct), WD and Seagate but also had my share of Hitachi laptop drives which came in my HP laptops. Over the years I've only had one fail outright - an 80GB Samsung 3.5" which was about 3 years old at the time and booted one morning with the click of death. Also had an 80GB Seagate 2.5" laptop drive which started to develop bad sectors and failed a drive test. Luckily I was able to grab data off of them before the completely died.

I never retired drives based on power-on-hours, I had a pair of Seagate 160GB 7200.7 Barracudas that I ran for 8 years 24/7 before I retired them. Key is to just run them to failure as long as they are still usable speed/space wise and keep backups on spare drives.

These days I have an M.2 NVMe 512GB SSD in my Dell XPS laptop and I have a 1TB and 2TB WD Element portable drive that I use for backups. I'm sold on SSD due to speed and quietness. I only use spinning drives for backups these days. SSD capacity is generally find for most users if you are okay with storing your photos or other data on an external drive.

Whatever you end up buying - google 'drive shucking'. You can typically get large capacity hard drives by buying an external from WD and then 'shucking' out the drive. Look for sales from Best Buy on these.
 
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Purchased a WD black drive, 4TB, set it up as GPT. It was recognized as only 1.6TB, which seems to be a common issue. Before I was able to troubleshoot the issue, the drive stopped spinning and the computer then failed to see it. Tried it in mama's gaming rig, same thing. No spin, no signs of life, does not show up in Disk Management.

Sending it back...
 
Originally Posted by madRiver
Buy two of whatever catches your eye. And set them up mirrored. Assume one will fail instead of buying one of the best.

If one were to use fakeRAID and non-TLER drives, this will add up to some exceptionally bad advice.
 
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