Harbor Freight Predator 4375 Generator 63960 63961 not same which one is better?

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984
Location
Pennsylvania
Originally Posted by avi
I already have these two non-inverter generators. is there a way to "clean up" the power?
I hate to break it to you, but the natural solution is to sell one or both of these and buy an inverter generator. Another option is to buy a really big deep cycle battery, a battery charger, and a good pure sine wave inverter. This is basically a UPS without the switching technology. You run the dirty generator power to the battery charger, hook that to the battery, and the inverter cleans up the power. The battery provides some filtering on its own, and it will keep things running while you refuel your generator.
 
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12,668
Location
North Carolina
The nice thing about the 4375 units, are they have 220v yet are only 212 cc. 16hrs ( 50% load) on 4 gallons. The only other small generator that's inverter and 220 that I'd like to have is the champion 100519. 5000watt inverter with 220v, 12hr run time at 25% load. Not as good on fuel, but cleaner power. About $1000.
 
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Messages
1,607
Location
Watertown, New York
I have one of the Champion 3500/4000 watt conventional generators. I have fed my house with it during power outages and not had issues with the power. It does have a automatic voltage regulator *as do the harbor freight units) which seem to be better than the older non avr units. If you need cleaner power tge Champion hybrid inverter would be a good choice
 
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6,638
Location
South Florida
Originally Posted by rubberchicken
Originally Posted by bubbatime
One of them fires the spark plug on the exhaust stroke, so two sparks per 4 of the strokes. This is pretty common. They both are running at 3600 rpm, guaranteed.
You should not have offered that bet !! I am not familiar with those generators,
Dude, these are harbor freight generators that cost under $500. I can GUARANTEE that they do not run at 1800 rpms. Period. And considering that I was a small engine technician for a few years, that has worked on these exact units, I can further GUARANTEE that they run at 3600 rpm. You can take that bet to the bank. I am WELL aware that there are 1800 RPM models for sale in the market, as well as converter generators. That does not apply to this thread.
 
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36,271
Location
ME
For home emergency use, a traditional 3600 RPM generator does well. Much of what you're running are motors, and they benefit from the flywheel effect of the mass of stuff in the generator when the motors start up. Inverters need to be oversized to come up with that 1/2 second of double power requirements. I would focus your energy now on a transfer switch and how you want to wire it in. I have a six-circuit "sidecar" I was able to self-install that lets me run essential circuits. You will know if your appliances don't like dirty power-- motors sound slightly off. Still, your neighbors run their stuff during blackouts off these cheap generators and everyone seems happy, so you're not the first to ask this question. If you're still worried, return one and get an inverter. This will let you scale your fuel consumption to the outage better-- run the inverter during the day for lighter use, for example.
 
Messages
12,668
Location
North Carolina
There is a coupon now, to get a 4375 generator for $349. The handle and wheel kit are extra. I bought one last year I have used it a couple of times. It ran my 220v well pump as well as my gas furnace with no problem. Used little fuel.
 
Messages
12,668
Location
North Carolina
First oil change was last year after about 1 hour run. Used it a couple of times this year, so about 10hrs on it. Went ahead and changed it, should be good for a while now. Used my ramps to get a pan under it. Amsoil HDD 5w30 went in. A transmission funnel is best way I know of to get oil in it.

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avi

Thread starter
Messages
14
Location
Camarillo, CA
Thanks I'll look for either a deep cycle battery and an inverter or a large UPS which should help clean up the power.
 
Messages
12,668
Location
North Carolina
Originally Posted by dlundblad
What's the fuel consumption on something like this?
Mine runs about 15hrs on 4 gallons. I'm sure i'm a bit more that 50% load. In winter i run a gas furnace, 220v 1/2hp well pump, 50 inch plasma tv and 2 refrigerators and lights. Led lights through out the house. We actually forgot to unplug a small wine cooler so that ran as well. I generally don't let the well pump cycle while everything else is on. Usually i turn off the well pump until i need it, and cycle it with the furnace off. I also run the oven or cook top, but i turn off the furnace and the well pump when i do. What i like about this generator, is that its 220v yet is small and does not consume a ton of fuel. A lot of 220v generators are in the 5000watt range and burn more. This is it beside my 8k/10k generator that burns a gallon an hour! [Linked Image]
 
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avi

Thread starter
Messages
14
Location
Camarillo, CA
I finally finished and tested the conversion of my two cheap Harbor Freight generators to tri-fuel, a list of all parts and sources at the bottom. overall I like these generators, they always started on the first pull, run fairly smoothly, and for a non-inverter generator, the power is "clean" enough: it will power up my UPS, and the UPS does not go into battery mode, i.e. the UPS "believes" that the power is "good enough" the voltage display seems fairly steady but the cycles vary at about 60.5 +/-1Hz though I want to look into some sort of power conditioning as mentioned above, battery charger, battery, inverter. a single generator had no problems running two refrigerators, freezer, internet modem/router, computer, two large air filters, even on natural gas, which has a lower energy density the CARB version of the generator has a charcoal canister which is in the way of the taller tri-fuel carb, so I had to remove the canister and clamp the hoses leading to/from the canister. I also needed to cut off the metal tab which was welded to the generator's frame. other than that, the conversion was very straightforward, even for a software guy with two left hands: drain gasoline and shut off the gasoline supply valve remove air cleaner cover remove two nuts attaching the air cleaner to the carburetor disconnect fuel hose and throttle control from OEM carburetor slip carb off the bolts keep it straight up, as it is still filled with gasoline.. found out the hard way :-) reverse with the tri-fuel carb (I did take pictures so I'll know how to put it back together) since I've already installed the wheel kit, I had to remove one wheel to allow the taller tri-fuel carburetor to slip onto the bolts. and I also had to adjust the engine speed screw after installing the new carb as I mentioned in the original post, there are two versions of the Harbor Freight generator from two different suppliers I happen to have one of each, these two videos are the closest I found to the two I have: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FORcu6raUhQ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pGih0Oo3Pg4 if you get a new generator, you have to run it on gasoline for about two hours to break-in all the rings/seals/etc before you run it on natural gas or propane List of stuff coupon for the generator: http://www.hfqpdb.com/best_coupon/4375+MAX+STARTING_3500+RUNNING+WATTS%2C+6.5+HP+%28212CC%29+GAS+GENERATOR tri-fuel carb (note this is specific to the above engine size) TONCO 170F SAFER for generator GX200 Dual Fuel Carburetor LPG/NG conversion kit https://www.ebay.com/itm/162773353012 the tri-fuel carb has a barbed nipple that needs to be adapted to a 3/8" gas flare female. the only way I could think of making this adapter was to get a hose that has the 3/8" flare female on both ends cut about 3-4" and slip onto the carb barbed nipple, secure with a clamp. Flame King Thermo Rubber RV Slide Out Hose Assembly, 60 Inch, 3/8 Inch ID, Female to Female -100159-60 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IZCNLSS hoses and fittings: expensive and probably an overkill, but was told that I need to ensure that enough natural gas reaches the generator... 6FT 3/4" LOW-PRESSURE NATURAL GAS OR PROPANE QUICK DISCONNECT CLAMP SUPPLY LINE https://www.ebay.com/itm/182205793347 3/8" to 3/4" fitting (between the 3/4" supply line and the 3/8" flare female attached to the carb) https://www.ebay.com/itm/3-8-FL-x-3-4-FIP-BRASS-FLARE-BY-FEMALE-PIPE-UNION/254193014493 even though I got the quick disconnect hose above, I also got this ball valve, and a "T" fitting so I could tee off the gas supply to the water heater. Homewerks VGV-2LH-B4CB Gas Ball Valve x Female Thread, Brass, 3/4-Inch, 0.75-Inch https://www.amazon.com/Homewerks-VGV-2LH-B4CB-Female-Thread-4-Inch/dp/B0046HAAJO hose and regulator for the propane tank: Gas One 4 ft High-Pressure Propane 0-20 PSI Adjustable Regulator with QCC-1 type Hose - Works With Newer U.S. Propane Tanks https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NO1O6ZC fitting between the 3/8" flare female on the carb, and the propane tank hose above, since both are flare female https://www.lowes.com/pd/B-K-3-8-in-Threaded-Male-Adapter-Union-Fitting/1000506223 Conntek GEN1688 L14-30P to Multi-Outlet Power Cord 30 Amp 4-Prong https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01G53Y9FM very important, need an hour meter to know when to change oil, and tach to make sure it is running at 3600rpm (aka 60Hz) https://www.ebay.com/itm/Spark-Plug...meter-Gauge-Motorcycle-J7R8/402031208174 optional stuff: to make oil changes much easier: Drainzit HON1010 Oil Change Aid For Honda 2.5HP 4.5HP 5.5HP 6.5HP 10mm https://www.homedepot.com/p/10-mm-Oil-Drain-Hose-Extractor-HON1010/206184635 WEN 55201 Magnetic Oil Dipstick for Inverter Generators (compatible with WEN, Yamaha, Predator) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07643J11X also, I got the better NGK (6427) BPR6EY Spark Plug (replaced after engine break-in on gasoline)
 
Messages
73
Location
South Dakota
That's pretty cool. The OP asked earlier which gen set was "better" than the other. The answer is "yes". They are the same, but different. The obvious difference is the engine. There are actually two different Predator 212 engines. The one with the octagon stamped steel valve cover is the older "non-hemi" and is a bored and stroked clone of the GX200. The one with the cast aluminum valve cover is (you guessed it) the newer "hemi" model. The non-hemi model has a foam air filter and a dished piston. The hemi has a paper cartridge filter that interchanges with the gx200 and a flat top piston. The cam, crank, flywheel etc. do not interchange. Both engines make the same power and will perform more or less identically. I've run both and can't tell a lick of difference in performance. BTW I love the mods the OP made!
 
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