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greatest contribution to wear reduction
- Thread starter bonnie john
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i dont know if fuel injection plays as big of a role as some of you guys would like to believe. if you take 2 identical cars with the sole exception being fuel injection and carb, they both reach a good long service life.
lets take ford festiva for example. they all had the same engine, yet certain models had carbs, some had fuel injection, they ALL would last over 200,000 miles, carbed or not.
lets take ford festiva for example. they all had the same engine, yet certain models had carbs, some had fuel injection, they ALL would last over 200,000 miles, carbed or not.
Sorry Gary, your wrong on this one. FI is way down on the list. Almost a none player compared to cold starts.
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We can agree to disagree on this.
I never had a carb that didn't degrade in performance over its lifetime ..but that was back when 60k was an eight year old vehicle. Aside from "mechanic in a bottle" or perhaps one defective injector (warranty item on one new vehicle) ..I've never had to ever service a fuel injection system. These systems, aside from the catalytic converter, reduced cold start/warm up emissions (and reduced their duration) substantially.
Perhaps it would be more correct to say that I believe that EFI is primarily responsible for allowing the general public, with their bad habits, to extend their ownership of a new vehicle out to well beyond a decade just due to the long term reliability and drivabilty afforded to them because of it. I'd say that it's primarily responsible for more good engines being in the junkyard with high mileage than any other inovation.
Perhaps it would be more correct to say that I believe that EFI is primarily responsible for allowing the general public, with their bad habits, to extend their ownership of a new vehicle out to well beyond a decade just due to the long term reliability and drivabilty afforded to them because of it. I'd say that it's primarily responsible for more good engines being in the junkyard with high mileage than any other inovation.
I grew up with carbs, and had numerous vehicles with them from the 50's until the 80's. In my humble opinion, they stink. Fuel injection is incomparably better. It doesn't need adjusting. With the computers in today' vehicles, you don't have to readjust your FI for various altitudes. Its not touchy like carbs were. FI vehicles start a LOT better in real cold weather (one of my favorite things about FI). FI is more gas-efficient. And on and on as to various things. The switch from carbs to FI is one of the best things that has happened to the motor vehicle.
I won't ague that fuel injection is not great! It is excellent! Perhpas part of the "engineering" advancements of modern engines.
I'm of the same opinion, still. Cold starts are bad.. lets rephrase that.. NEW starts will no oil pressure built during the first few seconds of an engine firing are bad. There may be a film of oil on the parts (*od help you if there wasn't), but the hydraulic pressure of the oil being pushed through the engine bearings really really protect them. Oil on the valve train is also important, but film is more important there, and hydraulic oil press is less important in that area. Think of the tremendous pounds of thrust a piston rod makes on the rod bearing, and imagine, if you will, there is but the thinnest film of oil (NEW cold start) there. That oil film, I believe, is more in protecting galling than providing any real protection in the main and rod bearings. The bearing have way more force to contend with than say the rings or the upper valve train. Those things are mostly spring, and other regulated nominal pressures.
What do you think would happen if you took all the oil out of the engine of a fairly new engine, including the oil filter, and did this:
Start it. Let it run for 10 seconds.
Turn off.
Start it. Let it run for 10 seconds.
Turn off.
Keep repeating the above for the duration of 15 minutes.
Now disassemble the engine. Examine those rod and main bearings (if there) see how much wear they have to OEM specs as new.
And, no you can't try this on my car..
Now, the original post was "Greatest contribution to wear reduction", not necessarily what causes wear reduction the most. We probably don't start our vehicle any less or any more than we did years ago, so there has to be some significant improvements or else we would still see engine overhaul and bearing wear about the same as it was 30 years ago. Fuel injection is a possibility, but I think we need to give credit to automotive engineers for their contribution in this field over the years. Their advancements of metallurgy, computer enhanced parts and motor designs, and their (automotive industry) machining techniques have vastly improved. We may knock foreign automobiles, but their advancements in design, made American Auto Manufactures do 'catch up' to stay competitive with them.
So, I would say this.... Competition in the Automotive Industry has been the greatest contribution to wear reduction.
Now who wants a cold one?? LOL Just my opinions, not trying to upset anyones apple carts.
What do you think would happen if you took all the oil out of the engine of a fairly new engine, including the oil filter, and did this:
Start it. Let it run for 10 seconds.
Turn off.
Start it. Let it run for 10 seconds.
Turn off.
Keep repeating the above for the duration of 15 minutes.
Now disassemble the engine. Examine those rod and main bearings (if there) see how much wear they have to OEM specs as new.
And, no you can't try this on my car..
Now, the original post was "Greatest contribution to wear reduction", not necessarily what causes wear reduction the most. We probably don't start our vehicle any less or any more than we did years ago, so there has to be some significant improvements or else we would still see engine overhaul and bearing wear about the same as it was 30 years ago. Fuel injection is a possibility, but I think we need to give credit to automotive engineers for their contribution in this field over the years. Their advancements of metallurgy, computer enhanced parts and motor designs, and their (automotive industry) machining techniques have vastly improved. We may knock foreign automobiles, but their advancements in design, made American Auto Manufactures do 'catch up' to stay competitive with them.
So, I would say this.... Competition in the Automotive Industry has been the greatest contribution to wear reduction.
Now who wants a cold one?? LOL Just my opinions, not trying to upset anyones apple carts.
i should go to the woodshed cuz i didn't know the Prius has an oil warmer...ok
i should really go to the woodshed cuz i just put 5W-20 Castrol GTX in my LT1 Camaro with CD2 oil detergent and did an autox on sunday
i should really go to the woodshed cuz i just put 5W-20 Castrol GTX in my LT1 Camaro with CD2 oil detergent and did an autox on sunday
No, you should go to the woodshed for foggy thinking. You correctly suggested that pre-lube systems can help reduce cold/dry start wear. I pointed out, essentially for entertainment since it's comparative numbers are so small, that Toyota actually installs such a system in the Prius. It was FJ, not you, who brought up block warming, which the Prius also does. Ignorance of the Prius block warming function is thus "chargeable" to FJ, not you. Finally, it's preheating of the head and block, not really "oil warming" so I guess we could hammer you for that. Now, you did include the magic letters, "lol", so I assume (and hope) that you too have a sense of humor.
ekpolk, sure you didn't grow up in Nebraska?? *S*
I knew some folks at Oshkosh,with the last name Polk and they were all very active in the military.
Back on subject, besides oil bypass filter, seems to be a good idea to use one of the sandwich adapter, take oil off for the bypass and then on one of the other outlets, take oil out to a gallon sized, VERY well insulated tank in the trunk, with the return to the oil pan. Starting up the engine would move the hot oil out of the gallon canister into the oil pan and you have very quick oil warming.
I knew some folks at Oshkosh,with the last name Polk and they were all very active in the military.
Back on subject, besides oil bypass filter, seems to be a good idea to use one of the sandwich adapter, take oil off for the bypass and then on one of the other outlets, take oil out to a gallon sized, VERY well insulated tank in the trunk, with the return to the oil pan. Starting up the engine would move the hot oil out of the gallon canister into the oil pan and you have very quick oil warming.
ahh..roger that!
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