Got another Foxbody Mustang. PO has been using VR1 20w50

earlier design motor needs ZDDP correct? I'll use Rotella T4 (10W40 summer, 30 in winter) in mine (fresh ford i6) after 1st oil change at initial break in.
Other's thoughts on this for flat tappet, 1969 technology...
 
earlier design motor needs ZDDP correct? I'll use Rotella T4 (10W40 summer, 30 in winter) in mine (fresh ford i6) after 1st oil change at initial break in.
Other's thoughts on this for flat tappet, 1969 technology...
Nope, not unless you are going wild on the cam specs.
 
I'd stick with the VR1 and just go to something a tad thinner than 20W50 unless you're tracking the car often. I think Valvoline has a 10W40 VR1. I'd certainly stay away from the M1 garbage in your Windsor, it never faired well in any of my built mustangs.

M1 works just fine in our Turbo Stroker Windsor, Turbo Big Bore / Stroker Mod Motor and Supercharged Coyote. On the other hand VR1 worked just fine in the old flat tappet big blocks. I don't think it's the tool, I think it's the application. If it's got a big block with a stout flat tapper I like.VR1. With a roller cam and a turbo I prefer M1.
 
no this has been a 70% off rd / 30% on lill i6 (250 or 4.1) ford ThriftPower or "Falcon" motor I just refreshed w/modern cam (nuttin fancy). Stock valves, carb (215 cfm Carter "RBS" that came w/this '69 Mustang motor OE). Been used to repower a '70 bronco that came w/170 or 200 i6 ora 289/302 bent8. Might swap the off rd/on rd percents as its being refurbished and pulled from woods wrk income generation. I retire. Will pull break in oil & wanna select available, inexpensive (will go back to being my DD after a few yrs shop rebuilding) rather than brad penn, etc (zinc phosphorus) unless the experts say different. Had it since '82 and bought the lead when they changed the formula till experts said "no matter. Harden exhaust valve seats @ nxt rebuild, no additive needed." Just like the 'puters I age them out, the car has passed the fuel and lube specs...nonea my stuff is 'thread bare'. I just maintain & baby (the rig spends its days around 1,500 - 2,500 RPM). Thnx~
 
no roller cam here.
ALSO
read Overkill's.
OP's: "...race goodies and a built motor...mild hydraulic roller cam..."
not my set-up. Mine hasa modern cam (as opposed to it's '69)
w/ a slight lean toward "RV" style. The carb it came with (1v). Up-
grade toa DSII ign.

OK, thank you~
 
no roller cam here.
ALSO
read Overkill's.
OP's: "...race goodies and a built motor...mild hydraulic roller cam..."
not my set-up. Mine hasa modern cam (as opposed to it's '69)
w/ a slight lean toward "RV" style. The carb it came with (1v). Up-
grade toa DSII ign.

OK, thank you~
You'd be fine with a Euro 0w-40 or 5w-40 IMHO, I'd run M1 0w-40 in it and not think twice. Many of the Euro applications were cam-over bucket with sliding followers (flat tappets).
 
WoW
never thought of that one. Thnx,
Will research w/the above in mind
(ie affordable/value, available, correct 4 my motor).
What companies or how spotted? Any 0W-40, 5W-40 (Oh, I see - mobil1 is a supplier).
 
WoW
never thought of that one. Thnx,
Will research w/the above in mind
(ie affordable/value, available, correct 4 my motor).
What companies or how spotted? Any 0W-40, 5W-40 (Oh, I see - mobil1 is a supplier).
You can typically find the Mobil and Castrol 0w-40's on sale, that's why I mentioned that one.
 
I would run Mobil 1 Euro 5w40 or whatever the 5w40 full syn is called nowadays. It is excellent oil and very affordable.
 
Y I came here, U guys is da ex-pirts

“...Euro 0w-40 or 5w-40 IMHO, I'd run M1 0w-40 in it.
can typically find the Mobil and Castrol 0w-40's on sale.
run Mobil 1 Euro 5w40 or whatever the 5w40 full syn is called nowadays.
Valvoline also has Synthetic VR-1.
full-SAPS Euro oils ... have higher levels of AW additives (ZDDP) than your typical OTS oils
...”

Now what's SAPS & OTS? Dont remember stockin shelves w/european designations or these abreviations. Mobil1, Castrol, Valvoline (in all their grades, synthisity and weights, yes). As the motor was machined, during my assembly and degreeing in the cam, my eyes fell on the diesel oil (rotella T4 for back compatability). Thnx. Now, at this age, I enjoy school alot more. 8^ )
 
Y I came here, U guys is da ex-pirts

“...Euro 0w-40 or 5w-40 IMHO, I'd run M1 0w-40 in it.
can typically find the Mobil and Castrol 0w-40's on sale.
run Mobil 1 Euro 5w40 or whatever the 5w40 full syn is called nowadays.
Valvoline also has Synthetic VR-1.
full-SAPS Euro oils ... have higher levels of AW additives (ZDDP) than your typical OTS oils
...”

Now what's SAPS & OTS? Dont remember stockin shelves w/european designations or these abreviations. Mobil1, Castrol, Valvoline (in all their grades, synthisity and weights, yes). As the motor was machined, during my assembly and degreeing in the cam, my eyes fell on the diesel oil (rotella T4 for back compatability). Thnx. Now, at this age, I enjoy school alot more. 8^ )
SAPS is the sulphated ash level, a "full SAPS" oil has higher SA, but also higher levels of zinc/phos too generally.
OTS = Off The Shelf, just means you can pick it up at Walmart or wherever.
 
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