Got another Foxbody Mustang. PO has been using VR1 20w50

PO didn’t build the car. He knew the original builder who did, just hasn’t kept in touch/lost contact with him. Old school guy. I’m pretty sure it was a new stock bore Boss block with everything new. I think I will try M1 15-50 or 0w40 Euro. Couldn’t hurt anything right? I’ve been running 0w40 in the my other Notch. So far has been good.
 
PO didn’t build the car. He knew the original builder who did, just hasn’t kept in touch/lost contact with him. Old school guy. I’m pretty sure it was a new stock bore Boss block with everything new. I think I will try M1 15-50 or 0w40 Euro. Couldn’t hurt anything right? I’ve been running 0w40 in the my other Notch. So far has been good.
No, it won't hurt anything. If the oil pressure is normal with the 0W-40, I'd just keep using it. I ran M1 0w-40 in my NA 302 HCI build (stock bottom-end) and it was always my recommendation when I was in the scene, due to the hoops it has to jump through for the Euro approvals. I run a 5w-40 in our 351 GT40 in our Supra, because it spends most of its life on the right side of the tach.
 
No, it won't hurt anything. If the oil pressure is normal with the 0W-40, I'd just keep using it. I ran M1 0w-40 in my NA 302 HCI build (stock bottom-end) and it was always my recommendation when I was in the scene, due to the hoops it has to jump through for the Euro approvals. I run a 5w-40 in our 351 GT40 in our Supra, because it spends most of its life on the right side of the tach.
I wanna see pics of that swapped Supra too!
 
I'd stick with the VR1 and just go to something a tad thinner than 20W50 unless you're tracking the car often. I think Valvoline has a 10W40 VR1. I'd certainly stay away from the M1 garbage in your Windsor, it never faired well in any of my built mustangs.
They have 10W-30 and 20W-50 in both Dino and synthetic.
I have run a 50-50 mix of each viscosity to give me a approximate 15W-40 with good results
 
I'd stick with the VR1 and just go to something a tad thinner than 20W50 unless you're tracking the car often. I think Valvoline has a 10W40 VR1. I'd certainly stay away from the M1 garbage in your Windsor, it never faired well in any of my built mustangs.
I won’t be tracking the car, although I would like to try an autocross day at one of these local Good Guys “Fun Run” non-competitive events. What did you experience when you ran the M1? Did you use 15w50 or Euro??
 
Ok got to give her a bath:)
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Just picked up a 1988 Notchback full of Maximim Motorsports road race goodies and a built motor :) Combo is a Ford Performance Boss block stroked to 327ci, Vortech V3 supercharger, GT40 tubular Intake, Trickflow aluminum heads, and a mild hydraulic roller cam that passed California smog some years ago. 12k miles on the build. PO has been running VR1 20w50. I’d like to go full synthetic and hopefully be able to purchase at my local Walmart. What do y’all think of switching to M1 15w50, M1 0w40 Euro, or maybe Rotella 5w40??

Check out what balancer is on this engine. I'm hoping they are not using a cheap one or stock. I'm using ATI Super Dampener for supercharged applications.
 
Just picked up a 1988 Notchback full of Maximim Motorsports road race goodies and a built motor :) Combo is a Ford Performance Boss block stroked to 327ci, Vortech V3 supercharger, GT40 tubular Intake, Trickflow aluminum heads, and a mild hydraulic roller cam that passed California smog some years ago. 12k miles on the build. PO has been running VR1 20w50. I’d like to go full synthetic and hopefully be able to purchase at my local Walmart. What do y’all think of switching to M1 15w50, M1 0w40 Euro, or maybe Rotella 5w40??

What is the ideal hot oil pressure that it should run? I believe that you will have around +10% difference in oil pressure (at op. temperature) comparing M1 15W50 and 0W40, since the HTHS are 4.5 and 3.6 respectively.

What about Rotella T6 15W40 or some HPL?

PS: Very nice ride! I love the Foxbody.
 
What is the ideal hot oil pressure that it should run? I believe that you will have around +10% difference in oil pressure (at op. temperature) comparing M1 15W50 and 0W40, since the HTHS are 4.5 and 3.6 respectively.

What about Rotella T6 15W40 or some HPL?

PS: Very nice ride! I love the Foxbody.
I like to see hot at idle above 20psi, my high miler H/C/I rig was ~32psi with M1 0w-40 in it, stock bottom end with ~200,000 miles on it, stock pump.

The Windsor uses a hex drive on the oil pump, which is driven off the distributor. It does NOT need help in the oiling department (engine oiling design is fantastic) but there have been many a guy that thinks "more is BETTAR!!!" and slaps in a Melling HV or HV/HP pump and then runs 20w-50 and liquorice sticks the stock drive. If they use the hardened ARP shaft, then they just put undo wear on the distributor drive gear and corresponding cam gear, or can even shear the drive gear pin.

I ran 0w-20 in mine one winter, IIRC, pressure was around 26psi hot at idle. There have been a number of guys that have experimented with much thinner oils in the small Windsor and I don't recall anyone having any unfortunate mishaps, anecdotal I know. I found the 0w-40 held viscosity well, and kept things clean. My old girl had perfect compression when I parked it, so I'd say wear was also well controlled. I found the same in other H/C/I builds that I was involved in.
 
I like to see hot at idle above 20psi, my high miler H/C/I rig was ~32psi with M1 0w-40 in it, stock bottom end with ~200,000 miles on it, stock pump.

The Windsor uses a hex drive on the oil pump, which is driven off the distributor. It does NOT need help in the oiling department (engine oiling design is fantastic) but there have been many a guy that thinks "more is BETTAR!!!" and slaps in a Melling HV or HV/HP pump and then runs 20w-50 and liquorice sticks the stock drive. If they use the hardened ARP shaft, then they just put undo wear on the distributor drive gear and corresponding cam gear, or can even shear the drive gear pin.

I ran 0w-20 in mine one winter, IIRC, pressure was around 26psi hot at idle. There have been a number of guys that have experimented with much thinner oils in the small Windsor and I don't recall anyone having any unfortunate mishaps, anecdotal I know. I found the 0w-40 held viscosity well, and kept things clean. My old girl had perfect compression when I parked it, so I'd say wear was also well controlled. I found the same in other H/C/I builds that I was involved in.

What was your h/c/I setup? What do you think of the newer Trickflow 11R heads?
 
What was your h/c/I setup? What do you think of the newer Trickflow 11R heads?
Original setup was a set of pro-ported GT40 irons w/lockwire gaskets topped with a TFS-R with a phenolic spacer and a 75mm TB. Cam was a TFS Stage 1 w/Crane 1.7 ratio rockers and the heads had Crane beehive springs. I used the FMS adjustable timing set. Made 270 to the tires pig rich (10:1 AF) with 30's in it, swapped them out for 24's which brought the AF up to ~12:1, which should have bumped it up to closer to 300, but never had it back on the rollers to confirm, so that's just speculation on my part based on how much harder it pulled with the 24's, and feedback from the guy that owned the tuning shop who told me I'd pick up at least 20HP with the right A/F.

I later bought a Camshaft Innovation custom cam and K-Motion K800's along with some hardened 1-piece pushrods to go with it. Goal was to make 325 to the tires N/A. Then I wrote the car off, kept the engine, and worked on putting it in an '82 Capri Black Magic roller I picked up. I was a little too ambitious, was going to swap in full aero interior and keep it fuel injected. Picked up an entire 2001 Cobra IRS setup for it.

Then, talking to Jay Allen, he said I'd make more power with a carb, so I sold the TFS, bought a Weiand XCelerator, Holley HP750, non-TFI dizzy, Crane HI-6 ignition and then bought my E39 M5 and the car just sat. Eventually I parted the car out and sold the engine to a guy who kept everything except the stock bottom-end, as he turned it into a 347. I had used all ARP hardware, had ARP head studs, intake studs, carb studs...etc.

I haven't looked at any of the newer Windsor stuff TBH, I had three kids and got out of the scene when I bought the bimmer. However, I may pick one up and build another one at some point, as I very fondly remember the fun I had with that car.
 
Original setup was a set of pro-ported GT40 irons w/lockwire gaskets topped with a TFS-R with a phenolic spacer and a 75mm TB. Cam was a TFS Stage 1 w/Crane 1.7 ratio rockers and the heads had Crane beehive springs. I used the FMS adjustable timing set. Made 270 to the tires pig rich (10:1 AF) with 30's in it, swapped them out for 24's which brought the AF up to ~12:1, which should have bumped it up to closer to 300, but never had it back on the rollers to confirm, so that's just speculation on my part based on how much harder it pulled with the 24's, and feedback from the guy that owned the tuning shop who told me I'd pick up at least 20HP with the right A/F.

I later bought a Camshaft Innovation custom cam and K-Motion K800's along with some hardened 1-piece pushrods to go with it. Goal was to make 325 to the tires N/A. Then I wrote the car off, kept the engine, and worked on putting it in an '82 Capri Black Magic roller I picked up. I was a little too ambitious, was going to swap in full aero interior and keep it fuel injected. Picked up an entire 2001 Cobra IRS setup for it.

Then, talking to Jay Allen, he said I'd make more power with a carb, so I sold the TFS, bought a Weiand XCelerator, Holley HP750, non-TFI dizzy, Crane HI-6 ignition and then bought my E39 M5 and the car just sat. Eventually I parted the car out and sold the engine to a guy who kept everything except the stock bottom-end, as he turned it into a 347. I had used all ARP hardware, had ARP head studs, intake studs, carb studs...etc.

I haven't looked at any of the newer Windsor stuff TBH, I had three kids and got out of the scene when I bought the bimmer. However, I may pick one up and build another one at some point, as I very fondly remember the fun I had with that car.
That would have been a fun car with 325whp , IRS rear end and suspension work. I have a lot of Maximum Motorsports parts and suspension work on my cobra.

You'll only go as far as your heads will take you. 290whp on ported gt40 h/c/i sounds right. The 11R heads come in a 53cc combustion chamber flavor to really bump up the compression on n/a builds. They feature completely revised valve angles more in line with LS heads. 380rwhp isn't out of the question even with only 302ci these days if you can match all of the components perfectly. However, with newer generation On3 Turbo kits starting @ $1800, its hard to drop big coin on NA builds assuming your starting with a 5.0. Boost is hard to beat.
 
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