Good coolant for 1950's tractor

[cronk]

I just acquired a late 50's Ford 860 tractor.
I got to thinking what would be a good coolant to run in it?
Most of today's coolants seem geared towards aluminum protection.
What's a good coolant to run in this old beast with cast iron engine and copper/brass radiator?

 

[Escape08]

Old school green

 

[SC Maintenance]

Zerex original green. I think it might be the only IAT formula left - at least that is readily available.

Zerex™ Original Green - Valvoline

Zerex from Valvoline is the #1 selling OEM-approved coolant brand. Zerex Original Green Antifreeze/Coolant is proven to maximize engine life in older passenger cars and light trucks made by GM, Ford, Chrysler, Hyundai, Kia, Nissan, Mazda and others which specify a low silicate containing green...

www.valvoline.com

 

[atikovi]

Just because it's a 50's tractor doesn't mean you should use a 50's coolant any more than you would use a 50's grade SC motor oil. Zerex G05 or Peak 10X would be good choices.

 

[Trav]

John Deere CoolGuard II. Best for cast iron, brass and solder.

 

[LenZee]

Maybe add a water pump lubricant also to the antifreeze. Especially if it is original or very old replacement.

 

[JavierH19]

The universal coolant you get off the shelf is just fine. I'd go a bit heavier with the concentration and use an anti rust and pump lubricant. The motor medic one is pretty good.

 

[SC Maintenance]

Just because it's a 50's tractor doesn't mean you should use a 50's coolant any more than you would use a 50's grade SC motor oil. Zerex G05 or Peak 10X would be good choices.

Not the same as oil. Older coolants actually provided superior corrosion protection compared to modern coolants - problem was they didn't last very long.

Inorganic Acid - IAT - provides superior corrosion protection for things like brass and cast iron. But they last at most 3 years - likely less as the protection is "used up". They also use silicates so its imperative to used distilled water if you mix it yourself.

OEM's moved to OAT and HOAT because they last longer which is what everyone wanted and modern engines were moving to stainless and aluminum parts. Dexcool was the original move this direction and we all know how that went. GM supposedly changed the engine components to handle the longer interval.

 

[Trav]

I have posted this before but it is worth another post..

 

[thastinger]

Ford Yellow/JD/CAT

 

[jeepman3071]

Pics of tractor?

Those old Fords are fun.

 

[Lubener]

I just acquired a late 50's Ford 860 tractor.
I got to thinking what would be a good coolant to run in it?
Most of today's coolants seem geared towards aluminum protection.
What's a good coolant to run in this old beast with cast iron engine and copper/brass radiator?

Like others have suggested, green. Whatever brand I got a deal on. I have been using the green coolant for decades in my 1940 Ford 9n, changing it every five years.

 

[brianl703]

Zerex original green. I think it might be the only IAT formula left - at least that is readily available.

Zerex™ Original Green - Valvoline

Zerex from Valvoline is the #1 selling OEM-approved coolant brand. Zerex Original Green Antifreeze/Coolant is proven to maximize engine life in older passenger cars and light trucks made by GM, Ford, Chrysler, Hyundai, Kia, Nissan, Mazda and others which specify a low silicate containing green...

www.valvoline.com

NAPA sells an original green formula. It was on sale for $10/gallon a few months ago.

 

[bunnspecial]

Not the same as oil. Older coolants actually provided superior corrosion protection compared to modern coolants - problem was they didn't last very long.

Inorganic Acid - IAT - provides superior corrosion protection for things like brass and cast iron. But they last at most 3 years - likely less as the protection is "used up". They also use silicates so its imperative to used distilled water if you mix it yourself.

OEM's moved to OAT and HOAT because they last longer which is what everyone wanted and modern engines were moving to stainless and aluminum parts. Dexcool was the original move this direction and we all know how that went. GM supposedly changed the engine components to handle the longer interval.

Even at that, and not to open a big can of worms, but there's plenty of discussion out there that current API specs are worse for older engines(flat tappets specifically) thanks to lower levels of Zinc/ZDDP.

A typical tractor engine has light enough valve springs that I doubt it would make a huge difference, but if it were mine I'd be using VR1, Castrol Classic, or maybe a diesel oil. The first two I don't think carry a current API spec but would likely meet an older one.

 

[frankbee3]

I have posted this before but it is worth another post..

View attachment 136966

Trav! Thank you for posting this chart! I find this chart very interesting.

 

[atikovi]

Even at that, and not to open a big can of worms, but there's plenty of discussion out there that current API specs are worse for older engines(flat tappets specifically) thanks to lower levels of Zinc/ZDDP.

Coolant doesn't have zinc or ZDDP.

 

[Creekside]

I use TRP coolant from a Peterbilt dealer in nearly everything. It would be similar to Finalcharge. The new Deere’s will have Coolgard for a while though.

 

[cronk]

Pics of tractor?

Those old Fords are fun.

Her you go!

 

[cronk]

Thanks all for your input! Napa has Zerex conventional green concentrate I got for $11 per gallon!

 

[bunnspecial]

Coolant doesn't have zinc or ZDDP.

That was directly related to your comment about not using an obsolete oil spec either.