GM Truck Powersteering Pump Replacement

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I had my smartphone with me this time to take some pics as I swap out the pump. I've done this so much times that I kept the "unopened" brand new pump pulley remover lease out tool and should be valuable if I was ever in a NASCAR pit crew.

Obligatory parts grab pic. Pump is for a 2010 2500HD gas truck since part numbers for older trucks are obsolete. The Dragonball Z card set is NOT needed for the pump swap. I loved the anime/cartoon when I was a kid and just got obsessed again. New pulley just in case. Not shown are the two pressure fitting o-rings which were $8 EACH at the dealership. Two of the three stuff is made in the USA.

Don't bother with a reman pump. Third time was not the charm. Not worth wasting the time with junkyard pumps too. Bit the bullet buying brand new OEM at the dealership. Online has it wayyyy cheaper.
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I have the luxury of electric fans in my 02 Silverado taken from an 06 Silverado with OEM fans and relay setup. For guys with the fan , remove fan first with the shroud. Then put a 15mm wrench on the tensioner pulley nut, turn clockwise (right) and slip the belt off.
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Then using the GM Power Steering Pump Anti-Theft Pulley remover, remove the pulley to expose the bolts to remove the pump off the bracket. Watch out for thieves stealing your power steering pump once you get that pulley off.
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Almost there...
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Before removing the pump place a trash bag under the pump, use a turkey baster to remove the fluid from the reservoir and using a 16mm and 14mm wrench remove the pressure lines and a flathead screwdriver to remove the return line.
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Remove the three front facing bolts and the single rear bolt and lower the pump into the bag and work the pump around the bracket hoses and wires.
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Well Goku you lost this battle. Third Cardone reman pump. I thought I learned my lesson back in NYE 2012.
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Need to transfer the hard pressure line and the pump to block mounting brackets to the new pump.
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Installation is the reverse of removal. New pump has two return fittings for future hydroboost install.
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Install lines, add fluid and check for initial leaks before installing pulley.
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Press on pulley onto shaft using the special tool. I betcha there are some guys pounding the pulley on with a sledgehammer.
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Put belt back on, reinstall fan, slightly overfill reservoir to the bottom of the reservoir filler neck (raising vehicle to turn steering wheel lock to lock will not bleed the pump cavity of air). Steering will be funny for a couple hours as fluid foams but fluid should be clear of foam the next day and should be topped off to full cold line before first start.
 
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Thanks for sharing!!
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Out of curiosity, how difficult was it to ditch the clutch fan for the electric setup from an '06?
 
Wasn't that hard to remove the clutch fan. Remove the upper rad hose, intake tube, use a big motha adjustable wrench and mallet to knock the fan loose from the water pump hub, remove two bolts that holds the shroud, spin the fan off the hub along with the shroud. Prior to doing the swap you must have a 34" radiator, earlier trucks will have a 28" radiator. My original 28" rad was leaking and upgraded to a 2500HD 34" rad with engine and transmission coolers. Wanted to add the engine oil cooler lines but the 2500HD lines were too long.

With some random luck I found an 06 Silverado at the junkyard with no front end damage. Took the fan, the fan relay block, the ECU pinouts, and separated the fan wiring from the main wiring harness for $75. The ECU pinouts go to ECU ground but requires the ECU to be reprogrammed on earlier trucks to activate the pin and to set fan on-off temps. Lots of space in the front which makes it easier for engine accessory replacement.
 
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The electroc fans dont do it here.some city boy loads all his atv's up on a trailer and heads up cajon to the desert.they dont make it! We have swapped out the electricks for a proper mechanical fan and shroud to fix that peoblem
 
Originally Posted By: Chris142
The electroc fans dont do it here.some city boy loads all his atv's up on a trailer and heads up cajon to the desert.they dont make it! We have swapped out the electricks for a proper mechanical fan and shroud to fix that peoblem


If you remove the electric fan, is there a fan circuit code that pops up? Or do you have to leave relays , etc in place so the computer thinks it is turning the fan on and off?

I'm a fan of mechanical fans for heavy duty or sever service applications.

But the electrics do use less engine power and they can provide their maximum cooling at idle.
 
GM programs the ECU to turn on the fans at low speed at 230F and ramps up to high speed when it's overheating IIRC. I had my ECU programmed at Blackbear Perf and they recommend for the efans to run on at 205F and turn off at 195F.
 
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Originally Posted By: wirelessF
I've done this so much times


On the same truck, or multiple vehicles?

What's causing the failure(s)? Not something we experience here, especially given how easy it is to do a fluid replacement with these.
 
Originally Posted By: Chris142
The electroc fans dont do it here.some city boy loads all his atv's up on a trailer and heads up cajon to the desert.they dont make it! We have swapped out the electricks for a proper mechanical fan and shroud to fix that peoblem
My Ram has both an electric fan and mechanical fan. I was surprised to see that setup when I bought it.
 
Great write up.

I'm kind of surprised your PS system has been so problematic though. There's a 2004 5.3L 2WD at work that has somewhere over 425K mi, and I believe the original PS pump. It has been run very low on fluid many times because of leaks, to the point there is nothing on the dipstick and you can hear the pump groaning, but it just gets topped off. When it has fluid, the steering seems to operate fine aside from normal looseness from the miles/age. PS pumps are not a common thing for us to quote or sell for these trucks either.
 
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