GM or Volvo power steering fluid.

Joined
Nov 18, 2012
Messages
10
Location
northern B.C.
I have a 2003 chev blazer that I have swapped a vw tdi engine into, mated to the nv3500 5 spd manual. Due to clearance issues I deleted the belt driven vw power steering pump, and am running a volvo electric power steering pump from I believe a 2006 v50. While picking up oils in canadian tire I could find power steering fluids rated for gm or volvo, but not one that was rated for both. What would the experts here recommend, running the gm fluid to suit the gm steering box, or the volvo fluid to suit the volvo pump?
 
Originally Posted by Trav
Use CHF 11S or CHF 202 either will work fine with both pump and gear, they are interchangeable and mixable.


x 2!
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If you need large amounts of CHF check the Canadian Autopartsway site. It's even suitable for smaller quantities. I'm able to get it locally at a half sensible price. Where you are, it might not be possible. Depending where you are, you could source it from a VW/Audi or Mercedes dealer. The VW/Audi dealer has decent pricing.
 
I get them from these sellers. Both packed well and shipped promptly.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-Genuine-OEM-Hydraulic-fluid-CHF-11S-83-29-0-429-576-PLEASE-READ-DESC/171707317940?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2-Bottles-Power-Steering-Fluid-Hydraulic-Pump-Fluid-Pentosin-CHF202/171343870210?epid=1434747447&hash=item27e4e3f902:g:gmIAAOxyLVZRYTjN
 
Another vote for the CHF fluid. The volvo pump is more likely to care, and the fluid itself is excellent fluid.
 
You are talking about the 6 cylinder TDI? I would think the 4 cylinder would be a little sluggish in a Blazer.
 
I'd go with the Pentosin CHF11S too. Also, A+ for the TDI swap in a Blazer. But was it a hassle getting the VW engine-side electronics to work with the GM BCM and dash?
 
It's a 2L 4cyl, engine code BHW from an 05 Passat. Rated 134 hp stock but I flashed the computer with a tune that should make it about 175 hp. Believe the 4.3 was rated at 190 but driving it I would say the tdi feels more powerful, likely because it makes the power at much lower rpm. If I recall correctly the 190 on the 4.3 is at 4500rpm and I rarely bring the rpm that high, so at most rpm's I would normally be driving at the tdi is likely making more power than the 4.3. As far as the swap goes I made my own block to bellhousing adapter plate, as well as an adapter to bolt the 40lb 168 tooth flywheel to the vw crank. I used the radiator and intercooler from the passat but will likely upgrade to a bigger intercooler yet. I am running both the GM and VW ecu's. The Blazer runs all the gauges through the ecu so I had to keep it so I could keep the stock instrument cluster. I added the gm oil pressure and coolant temp senders to the tdi to feed the stock gauges, and kept the vw senders as well to keep the vw ecu happy. What ever else went from the gm harness to the 4.3 is just left unplugged and doesn't seem to cause any problems. On the vw side I just pared the passat harness down to the bare minimum to run it standalone and have the harness incuding the ignition switch ziptied up against the firewall. I just leave the vw key in the on position all the time and feed power to the vw harness with a relay triggered when I turn the blazer key to the run position. This powers up the vw ecu and the starter is triggered by the gm wiring from the gm ignition switch. When I shut the key off the relay opens chopping power to the vw ecu shutting off the engine. Of course the tdi is drive by wire so I had to mount the passat accelerator pedal and tps in place of the original blazer pedal which was a cable type. So far I'm very happy with how it drives. I've just had it on the local dirt roads so far, but will be making a trip down to Prince George with it, about 1150 km each way in about 10 days, so that will give me a chance to see how the mileage is on the hiway. As far as pictures go I didn't take any during the build. I could go snap some of the engine compartment now with the tdi in there, but I'm not the greatest with computers and have not had much success trying to post pictures to forums in the past, so I don't think I want the frustration of trying to figure that out now.
 
Redline PSF > CHF 7/11

1998 VW New Beetle, pump howls when hot with the CHF 7 spec fluid and steering assist gets less and pulse happy. I tested several fluids, and the Redline PSF is what stayed and has been in there since. Even tore the pump down to inspect it.

I was content and so is the Bug's steering.

IIRC 11 is a semi-synthetic, that you aren't supposed to use in place of 7, which is a really thin synthetic that has an incredible pour point. If I was driving at the south pole, I would use 7.1s. If it doesn't go below -40 though, Redline PSF.
 
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Why would you use 7.1 in a 98 Beetle? That car is spec for CHF11S which is not miscible with 11S, more than likely you had contaminated fluid, 7.1 is mineral oil based and 11S is synthetic.

Description: Pentosin CHF 7.1 is a high performance hydraulic fluid, formulated with mineral base oils, for life-time lubrication in older/vintage vehicle aggregates. It serves in power steering systems, shock absorber, automatic level control and other chassis suspension systems. Pentosin CHF 7.1 is NOT miscible with modern high performance hydraulic fluids such as the Pentosin CHF 11S or CHF 202.

Application Guide.

 
A thought on Volvo PS fluids (which are the same as most European makes):

Unless you are in real arctic conditions, you can get a more robust fluid by just using DexIII. The Pentosin is designed for extreme cold and thus is more modified than other PS fluids. Since you are in northern BC - I'd say if you are in INLAND BC, then go with Pentosin. If coastal, just use Dex III or Lubegard PSF if you want to really be proactive. The pentosin fluid is one of the reasons Volvo has so many PSP and rack-related issues as the cars age, if the fluid is not regularly flushed.
 
A thought on Volvo PS fluids (which are the same as most European makes):

Unless you are in real arctic conditions, you can get a more robust fluid by just using DexIII. The Pentosin is designed for extreme cold and thus is more modified than other PS fluids. Since you are in northern BC - I'd say if you are in INLAND BC, then go with Pentosin. If coastal, just use Dex III or Lubegard PSF if you want to really be proactive. The pentosin fluid is one of the reasons Volvo has so many PSP and rack-related issues as the cars age, if the fluid is not regularly flushed.
That’s exactly the opposite of Volvo owner experience…

Volvo owners manual for 2001-2003 called for DEX III.

After a large number of rack failures, Volvo specified CHF-202, and back-specified the 2001-2003 models to CHF -202.

All three of my cars run CHF-202 and have the original racks.
 
Use CHF 11S or CHF 202 either will work fine with both pump and gear, they are interchangeable and mixable.
X3. Good fluid and the Volvo pump will appreciate it.

btw, you may be my newest hero, mad respect: “I have a 2003 chev blazer that I have swapped a vw tdi engine into, mated to the nv3500 5 spd manual”
 
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