Getting truck to run cooler
- Thread starter HawkeyeScott
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More RPM might have been helpful too, like some manual downshifting. Lugging makes heat-- I know you think with an automatic it'll go when it it needs to.
Do you have all the factory air dam stuff under the bumper? That shoves air through the rad and often gets ripped off on parking curbs.
Do you have all the factory air dam stuff under the bumper? That shoves air through the rad and often gets ripped off on parking curbs.
Originally Posted By: HawkeyeScott
The trailer, loaded, is about 60 percent of the truck's towing capacity. I traveled the same roads with the same truck and trailer last year and never quite got the truck this warm.
I'm still curious about the trailer length and weight.
The trailer, loaded, is about 60 percent of the truck's towing capacity. I traveled the same roads with the same truck and trailer last year and never quite got the truck this warm.
I'm still curious about the trailer length and weight.
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Originally Posted By: HawkeyeScott
I was close to 235 degrees during a couple of long mountain pulls, despite only going about 35 or 40 mph. Engine wasn't revving above 2500 RPMs.
Pulling a grade at 40mph and 2500 or less sounds low. I'd expect to be at 3000 to 3500 or so. Lugging makes heat, I'd want to be in a lower gear.
I was close to 235 degrees during a couple of long mountain pulls, despite only going about 35 or 40 mph. Engine wasn't revving above 2500 RPMs.
Pulling a grade at 40mph and 2500 or less sounds low. I'd expect to be at 3000 to 3500 or so. Lugging makes heat, I'd want to be in a lower gear.
Originally Posted By: dblshock
TC-W3 spiked fuel, scrub off some friction.
I really have no words to describe how ridiculous this is!
TC-W3 spiked fuel, scrub off some friction.
I really have no words to describe how ridiculous this is!
Nick1994
$100 site donor 2024
Originally Posted By: dblshock
TC-W3 spiked fuel, scrub off some friction.
Originally Posted By: dblshock
add a secondary radiator, like they do for towing.
Boy, you sure are a comedian
TC-W3 spiked fuel, scrub off some friction.
Originally Posted By: dblshock
add a secondary radiator, like they do for towing.
Boy, you sure are a comedian
An auxiliary radiator IS needed on some GM trucks....The 04 & 05 LLY Duramax towing heavy in real hot ambient's can overcome the radiators capacity.
But not this one, LSx engines are very easy to cool & a 2008 GMT900 cooling stack is very efficient....Big radiator-Big electric fans.
I'm thinking Airflow issue! Either it be the fans or blockage between the radiator & condenser.
But not this one, LSx engines are very easy to cool & a 2008 GMT900 cooling stack is very efficient....Big radiator-Big electric fans.
I'm thinking Airflow issue! Either it be the fans or blockage between the radiator & condenser.
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The two things that you should focus on are...
1. Air flow. Make sure that the A/C condenser and radiator are clear of dirt/bugs/debris, and make sure that the cooling fan(s) is operating properly and moving enough air. You can purchase a specialty cleaning product at home improvement stores designed for cleaning home A/C condensers, it works equally well on automotive A/C condensers, you just spray it on and hose it off.
2. The radiator. At 10 years old it is likely to have some of the internal core plugged with debris and/or corrosion and is the probable cause of your problem. You are only really going to know there is a problem under the situation you describe (until it is thoroughly plugged). Flushing it out won't help, the solution would be to replace the radiator. Fortunately the newer aluminum radiators are not overly expensive. Replacing the radiator will also allow you to upgrade it to a higher capacity heavy duty model.
1. Air flow. Make sure that the A/C condenser and radiator are clear of dirt/bugs/debris, and make sure that the cooling fan(s) is operating properly and moving enough air. You can purchase a specialty cleaning product at home improvement stores designed for cleaning home A/C condensers, it works equally well on automotive A/C condensers, you just spray it on and hose it off.
2. The radiator. At 10 years old it is likely to have some of the internal core plugged with debris and/or corrosion and is the probable cause of your problem. You are only really going to know there is a problem under the situation you describe (until it is thoroughly plugged). Flushing it out won't help, the solution would be to replace the radiator. Fortunately the newer aluminum radiators are not overly expensive. Replacing the radiator will also allow you to upgrade it to a higher capacity heavy duty model.
Nick1994
$100 site donor 2024
Originally Posted By: dblshock
oil reduces friction, right..TC-W3 spiked fuel reduces a source of friction not otherwise lubricated, reducing overall heat as it eliminates deposits which contribute to further temps.
What about 0w20?
oil reduces friction, right..TC-W3 spiked fuel reduces a source of friction not otherwise lubricated, reducing overall heat as it eliminates deposits which contribute to further temps.
What about 0w20?
Suspect Fan Clutch.
If you dont hear it working hard on long hard pulls its shot.
If you dont hear it working hard on long hard pulls its shot.
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