Generator oil choice

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Ok I'm not a computer guy so I don't know what a url is I thought I confirmed my email and I've got five generators and I am always wondering about something
Like I just got a predator 4000 only had 20 hours of running time but NOW I'm pretty sure I've passed 75 hours should I go ahead and change the oil and in my other generators they are older but when I change the oil I always add a half oil treatment in with the high mileage oil should I do that to the new generator predator 4000
And my other generators are champions now my work horse is called an outdoors by. Champion and I'm telling you that thing runs like crazy and has always started on the first pull and I don't have to pull hard NOW excatly how many hours should I change the oil and yes they almost run 24 HOURS A DAY I TURN THEM OFF FOR ABOUT THREE OR FOUR HOURS THEN FILL EVERY THING AND CRANK IT UP ANY ONE HAVE SOME THOUGHTS ABOUT THE OIL TREATMENT AND HOW OFTEN I CHANGE THE OIL
 
Cowboyjames, could you be more specific about :

1) What treatment are you now using? There are many. And by "half oil treatment" what do you mean?
2) What oil you are using?
3) What are the maximum and minimum ambient air temperatures these generators will be used at? Knowing your general location would be helpful for knowing the maximum and minimum ambient air temperatures.
4) How hard are you working them? I see that you are running them a long time each day, but how heavily loaded? What percent of the maximum continuous load are you running them at? I understand it probably varies but even if that is the case, what is the maximum percent, and what is the normal average load?

With the regular use you are talking about you are going to be changing oil often. And if you are going to be putting a lot of hours on them you want an oil that will make them last, but you should also chose an oil that is not more expensive than it has to be. Shell Rotella 15W - 40 is a very good oil that is widely available at a low cost. But the 15W would mean it is a good oil to use if it does not get too cold when you are using it. 15 W will be a little thick and a little hard to pull start on very cold days. For cold days you want the first number to be lower. The lower the better for cold flow that makes it easy to pull start on cold days. On warm days the 15 W first number is fine, and an oil with less spread between the first and second number in general will hold up better. But if it is going to be cold you want the first number to be lower than 15.

Cowboyjames, there are many people here on BITOG who know a lot about oil and oil additives, but you have not provided enough information about the specifics of how you are using these generators. If you stated your location we would have an idea of the maximum and minimum ambient temperatures this equipment is being use in.

If you give better detailed information, the people on this forum will be able to give you better answers as to what would be the best bang for the buck in regard to oil, and oil additives. So please answer each of the above questions and give any other information that may be helpful in letting us know how you are using these generators?
 
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BTW, in general if the oil is changed when it should be you do not need a oil additive. However on this forum there was a post of someone who got huge number of hours from his generators and he added some liquid molly oil additive to every other oil change. But the generators he was using were Honda brand that are more expensive and know for long life.

The Delo 15w40 rooflessVW mentioned is another very good oil that is widely available at a good price.
 
I run what is recommended by the manufacture which in my case is 5w30 synthetic. Ed

It is much more common for generator engines to be damaged in hot summer weather by the oil being too thin, than for them to have any problem from running a thicker oil that provides better protection in hot weather.

The OP has not provided any information about where he is located, or what the ambient air temperatures are where he is but just that it is now summer is enough info to recommend a 40 instead of a 30 for now. In the winter that could be a different recommendation.

If he is in a extremely hot area such as Arizona, then even a 15W- 50 would be something to consider in the summer.
 
Most owner's manuals for generators say to change the oil the first time at around 20 hours. Then every 100 hours (or yearly, whichever comes first) after that.

It sounds like you are well past the 20 hour break-in stage on your generators. If you haven't done an initial oil change, I recommend you do it now.

I suggest using a good quality oil and skip the "oil conditioner" additives. Refer to your owner's manual for the correct oil type. Most small engines run great on almost anything in a xW-30 or xW-40, but check you manual for the recommended oil. Some people in Florida and Texas will run a xW-40 or xW-50 in the hot summer. It doesn't get that hot in Michigan, so I use 10w30 all year (summer and winter).
 
Your general location (weather) and a few commas will put you on the right path for a recommendation. Or just run Rotella 0W-40 or Mobil 1 FS 0W-40 and call it a day. And, yes your generator needs the oil changed.
 
I had some electrical work I needed to do at the house and ran off my 4K Champion for a week. I used Castrol HD30. Outside conditions was a humid 93/94*F. Champ recommends changing oil every 50 hours during high temps / full load or 100 hours run normally. I changed after a week.
I do not use additives in the oil, only a bit of Marvel Mystery Oil in the gas.
 
Don't know about the other generators, but the hf4000 unit only holds about 20oz of oil. I would change it at 50 hrs. Since it's mostly continuous running( not sure it's designed for that, or it would have a larger sump) you could run a 15w40 since you have very few cold starts. Cold weather, depending on where you are, a 0w or 5w40.
 
First off, a URL is a Uniform Record Locator, otherwise known as a web page address. https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/ is an example of a URL.

Second, as been stated before, we need to know something about the climate that these generators are running in.

Third, the generators I am familiar with (Champion and Predator) call for either 50 or 100 hour change intervals. That's either two or four days of near constant running. The unit with 75 hours is due for a change.
 
I have a Predator 4000, it actually calls for 20 hour changes. Might be a little overkill, but I wouldn't do more than 50 hours. I usually run Rotella T5 10w30 in mine. If you're in a particularly hot climate, maybe 5W-40 or 15w40 would be more appropriate.
 
Thinking of Red Line 10w30 ester based for my new 457cc dual fuel … Only takes a quart …
Thoughts?:
 

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Thinking of Red Line 10w30 ester based for my new 457cc dual fuel … Only takes a quart …
Thoughts?:

VI seems low for a 10w30....not sure that matters but would expect premium from Redline. I'm sure the ester is 1% or less anyway.
 
VI seems low for a 10w30....not sure that matters but would expect premium from Redline. I'm sure the ester is 1% or less anyway.
For comparison MaxLife is 144 VI with 3.2 HTHS whereas RL is 3.5 HTHS … it’s a thick 10w30. Curious why you think Redline sells this as an ester based formula with 90% synthetic base stock … and you say My gen will be pulling two refrigerators, a freezer, and an 8000 btu AC … so it’s going to run hot in a hurricane outage
(what made me think of ester instead of typical truck oil tossed around here)
 
Now this was not a happy customer (see screen snap below) …
But, I’m happy: just found a jug of Delvac 1 5w40 in my stash … other gens will get that …
Did put the Redline 10w30 in new machine after short break in on Quaker State Ultimate Durability …

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For every generator that get's high end boutique oil and OCI's of 10 hrs , there's a dozen more out on a jobsite that get's the hell beat out of them and are lucky if somebody even checks the oil once a year . Somehow they keep on gennin' .. 😁
 
Plenty of threads on this subject already.

OTC 5W30 ILSAC motor oil DID NOT WORK in my Generac 5000.
Unit started having a hot rod knock after running a 1/2 hour under load
Then went to Valvoline 10w30 Racing synthetic with a bit of Lubrimoly MoS2
Ran great for 10 years on that same 1 quart.
Feeling bad for the puppy, and just downright negligent, I changed the oil to Valvoline 5W40 ACEA A3 MB/ Porsche stuff last fall. We will see how that does.

If I lived in a hot climate I would have no problems running a H-D twin pot bike oil.
or an SAE HD30 API SH/SN.

But I have to start and run this thing in sub freezing temps sometimes.

- Ken
 
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