GDI Engines

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All those recommending catch cans should note that these were used by many of the Audi owners per their forums without success.

No guarantee a catch can will do anything but slow things down a bit and possibly void warranty coverage.
 
1) Catch cans have been proven to not work already.
2) Seafoam and other chemicals through the intake have been proven to not work.
3) The only "proven" method so far of deposit removal is the ole italian tuneup. VW recommends something like 4k+ RPMS for 20-25min+. The intake valves need to get above 400F for an extended period to burn the stuff off.

Enjoy and have fun!
 
Good point about requiring temps above 400F to get the deposits to burn off.

Also very important to use a low ash oil...The cleaner the oil is the lower the amount of possible deposits.
 
Originally Posted By: badtlc

2) Seafoam and other chemicals through the intake have been proven to not work.

Enjoy and have fun!



Just curious as to why you believe item #2 (cleaning the combustion chamber or back of the valves) doesn't work?
 
Originally Posted By: 147_Grain
Originally Posted By: badtlc

2) Seafoam and other chemicals through the intake have been proven to not work.

Enjoy and have fun!



Just curious as to why you believe item #2 (cleaning the combustion chamber or back of the valves) doesn't work?


It might clean combustion chamber. I havent researched that. But you can go all over the VW and Audi forums where they have tested multiple chemicals through the intake. Seafoam, 3M, etc. all remove the soft deposits just fine but they don't even touch the hard stuff that builds up on intake valves.

Besides, why spend the money on chemicals when you can burn off those deposits w/out the chemicals?
 
Note that you cannot introduce a liquid into any modern 'dry' manifold design and expect even coverage. You will likely get puddling and grossly uneven delivery and could even cause a serious issue if not careful.

This is the fundamental issue with seafoam and others.
 
Originally Posted By: SteveSRT8
Note that you cannot introduce a liquid into any modern 'dry' manifold design and expect even coverage. You will likely get puddling and grossly uneven delivery and could even cause a serious issue if not careful.

This is the fundamental issue with seafoam and others.


I agree that there is a risk of "puddling and ... uneven delivery" and this is why I keep the rpm's above 1,500 to help lower the risk. Need to go slow in adding liquids through the brake booster line and a second person on the gas pedal surely helps.
 
Originally Posted By: SteveSRT8
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Originally Posted By: HerrStig
Put me down as "unimpressed" so far with this "improvement".


I agree.


Likewise. Unproven IMO.

It seems interesting that not all DI engines experience this issue. Obviously some mfgrs have figured something out.


They still have a long way to go IMO. Obviously if the technology was perfected across the board these threads wouldn't continue to pop up. Go figure............
21.gif
 
Originally Posted By: antiqueshell
Good point about requiring temps above 400F to get the deposits to burn off.

Also very important to use a low ash oil...The cleaner the oil is the lower the amount of possible deposits.


Right now I have Mobil 1 0w40 is that considered low ash?

The car came with Castrol 5w40 factory fill. I changed that out and put in Pennzoil Ultra Euro 5w40 but was so hard to find. So my last oil change I put in the Mobil 1. Of the 3 which had the least ash?

Jeff
 
Originally Posted By: sciphi
Italian tuneup to get the valves hot. A lot of makers are also using fancy VVT strategies to ensure some fuel washes the valves to minimize buildup. Better PCV system design helps too.

A low-volatility synthetic oil is probably the best thing to do for a DI car besides making sure the oil gets to temperature at least once a week to burn off any fuel and moisture. If less gunk needs to go through the PCV system, less gunk ends up on the valves.


So of the 3 oils I've used or that have been used which applies here?

Castrol 5w40 oem fill
Pennzoil Ultra 5w40
Or
Mobil 1 0w40?

Jeff
 
Originally Posted By: friendly_jacek
Weird, feels like every subforum has a GDI thread?



This fact alone makes me wary of purchasing a direct injection engine...there are a LOT of savvy folks on here and although they are not engineers they have enough understanding of the issues that most question the adequate development of these engine designs for long term reliability.

I'm with others here, when the issues stop popping up on forums like this I will buy the new design.
 
Originally Posted By: antiqueshell


I'm with others here, when the issues stop popping up on forums like this I will buy the new design.


+1
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these threads do pop up, but the cars are very reliable. The ones with GDI engines. There is a fix for the issue and it is already in use by VW and AUDI. They Copied Toyotas cure by placing a port fuel injector in to spray fuel on the intake valves to keep them clean. So the cure is there. The GM GDI engines from what I have read have the least problems, but with the extra port fuel injector the problem will be solved.

Don't fret over new technology, what I am trying to do is trying to prevent it from happening. Maybe that is impossible? I have emailed folks at APR which is a well known AUDI VW performance part maker, and they race GDI type engines. I asked them about the TSI engine in my GTI and they said the TSI has a better design to keep the deposit formation to a minimal, and to not waste my money on an oil catch can.

So, just will keep up on my maintenance and see how it goes.

Most if not All German cars are GDI these days. I am sure it wont be long till that is all that is available. Who knows.

Jeff
 
The added port injector was NOT for maintaining the valves. The added port injector is there only because it is better for motor control during light throttle/low RPM periods.

VW and Audi have not fixed their issues, but the italian tuneup works just fine to clean them up.
 
Originally Posted By: badtlc
The added port injector was NOT for maintaining the valves. The added port injector is there only because it is better for motor control during light throttle/low RPM periods.

VW and Audi have not fixed their issues, but the italian tuneup works just fine to clean them up.


You can believe what you want but I feel the port injection was added to eliminatea problem on the valves. Maybe it was a side note to another reason to do it but it wasa reason in my book.

And yes with the new design from VW the issue WILL be resolved.

Jeff
 
Originally Posted By: Jeffs2006EvoIX


And yes with the new design from VW the issue WILL be resolved.

Jeff


Time will tell.
 
Originally Posted By: Jeffs2006EvoIX
Originally Posted By: badtlc
The added port injector was NOT for maintaining the valves. The added port injector is there only because it is better for motor control during light throttle/low RPM periods.

VW and Audi have not fixed their issues, but the italian tuneup works just fine to clean them up.


You can believe what you want but I feel the port injection was added to eliminatea problem on the valves. Maybe it was a side note to another reason to do it but it wasa reason in my book.

And yes with the new design from VW the issue WILL be resolved.

Jeff


Toyota is on record as saying their dual injection setup is used due to cylinder filling issues at part throttle. So are others, it's just not that well known yet.

And the Italian Tune Up does work, it just requires a period of time that most will not do. Many mfgrs do not experience any issues, so things are getting better. But I still want to see some very high mileage abused examples to verify what happens in the real world.
 
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