GDI Engines

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Im just curious if there is anything we (we being people with GDI type gas motors) can do to help with carbon build up on the valves of these engines.

I realize TT Gas will help, but since the injectors for the GDI engines are below the valves even using TT Gas may not be too effective since its the process of combustion in general that may be leaving the carbon deposits behind. Unless we are saying that TT fuels actually burn better causing less carbon? Is that proven? I realize cleaner valves and such has been proven on port injected motors, but in the GDI world that theory goes out the window.

So is there anything you can actually do to prevent this build up? Or your just S.O.L and just expect a major repair sometime down the road? I mean if your paying more money for a fuel or an additive that may not even help reduce let alone remove these deposits....what is the point of using them?

Just curious on this.

Currently I do use TT gas in my car, Usually Shell, but been using 76 lately, since its $.30 a gallon cheaper at 76 right now.

Seems VW in particular has a major issue with this. I am sure other GDI motors do too, some more than others...

Jeff
 
Italian tuneup to get the valves hot. A lot of makers are also using fancy VVT strategies to ensure some fuel washes the valves to minimize buildup. Better PCV system design helps too.

A low-volatility synthetic oil is probably the best thing to do for a DI car besides making sure the oil gets to temperature at least once a week to burn off any fuel and moisture. If less gunk needs to go through the PCV system, less gunk ends up on the valves.
 
"A low-volatility synthetic oil" Well, not sure if the oils that have been in the car are. It came from the Factory with Castrol 5w40 which one exactly I dont know. I then used Pennzoil Ultra 5w40 Euro, But its just too hard to find and expensive once you do find it. Currently I am using Mobil 1 0w40. Am I using a "A low-volatility synthetic oil" or not? haha.

I mean, I research oil on this site, but to get into every single aspect of it, I am just lost. I was going to run Redline Oil in this VW since I had such good luck with it in my Evo, but Redline does not have the Approval from VW and this car is still under warranty. Not sure if that oil is low-volatility or not either?

Jeff
 
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3M makes a DIY Fuel System Tune Up kit that addresses DI fuel not washing over the intake valves. The only really unique part is the intake system cleaner, which is the part that theoretically allows cleaning of the valve tops. Amazon currently has it for $31.51 with subscribe and save, which can be cancelled afte the DIY kit has shipping. There is video showing how the kit is used on Amazon and elsewhere.

3M DIY Fuel System Tune Up Kit
 
The Max Clean the Professor was talking about on youtube, I cant see how a fuel additive would help? Especially if TT fuel is being used with every fill up? Common sense would tell you that you need something in your intake that can actually hit the valves and clean it.

I was thinking of running a Meth/Water injection on the intake, but if I do that, there goes the warranty.

The 3M link isnt working I cant get to it.

Jeff
 
Link should be working now, if not enter ' 3M 08963 Fuel System Tune Up Kit ' at Amazon search. That should get it.
 
Catch can, personally I would spray some throttle body cleaner through the intake with the engine cold while cranking ( pull the fuel pump fuse?). I would do this once a month or so to soak the intake valve stem while cold and let it sit a few minutes before Starting the engine.
 
Inherent problems with this type of fuel delivery system and the main reason I steered away from buying two 2013 cars this year. Keep us informed how you solve this engineering mishap.
 
Low NOACK oil would be the single most important thing, along with a PVC catch can / oil separator. Good air filtration is also important- no "low restriction" air filters.
 
Originally Posted By: walk23
Inherent problems with this type of fuel delivery system and the main reason I steered away from buying two 2013 cars this year. Keep us informed how you solve this engineering mishap.
Put me down as "unimpressed" so far with this "improvement".
 
Originally Posted By: JimPghPA
Would (using Red-Line SL-1 at the recommended dose of 4.45 mL per gallon of fuel) keep things clean?


yes except for the intake valves. which is where the concern is.
 
1) have some faith in the engineers that designed the engine
2) use a low-volatility oil if you can
3) recognize that much of the DI folklore is from the early days of this technology and much has been learned since
4) realize that in the worst-case scenario, an intake valve cleaning isn't that expensive
 
Originally Posted By: HerrStig
Put me down as "unimpressed" so far with this "improvement".


I agree.
 
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Originally Posted By: HerrStig
Put me down as "unimpressed" so far with this "improvement".


I agree.


Likewise. Unproven IMO.

It seems interesting that not all DI engines experience this issue. Obviously some mfgrs have figured something out.
 
I'm still waiting to see the latest generation of all GDI intake/valve issues, that the very "early adoptors" like Audi had. With the exception of the BG test of a Ford Ecoboost, I've yet to see comprehensive definitive evidence. Because of BG's vested interest, I have to take their results with a grain of salt.

As for some manufactures that may have figured out GDI intake deposits, based on my reading of these boards, it's seems to me that for many/most there is a direct correlation to the poster's preference for a certain vehicle manufacturer and the GDI intake success. At least that's been been my observation. Again, seen no definitive evidence for that conclusion.

Guess I'm saying while I don't own a GDI currently, I'm keeping an open mind.

As for using a catch can, seems like a viable alternative. That said, if I owned a GDI vehicle under warranty I'd be very hesitant to install one.
 
Originally Posted By: sayjac

As for using a catch can, seems like a viable alternative. That said, if I owned a GDI vehicle under warranty I'd be very hesitant to install one.


The Sonata catch can installation is easily reversed - maybe a 10 minute job to remove it if it needs to go in for warranty work. Remove 2 mounting bolts, replace PCV hose from catch can to valve cover fitting - done. Nothing OEM is cut or removed.
 
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