GC bad for Audi TT?

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Hello,

I'd appreciate some input on my situation. I did some research, and I found a lot of 2001-2003 Audi TT 1.8L 225hp Quattro Roadster owners out there use M1 0w-40. From the German Castrol FAQ's, it sounded like GC 0w-30 would be an alternative to M1 0w-40. However, the manual recommends 5w-40, or 5w30 if the 5w-40 is not available. So I decided to try out the GC 0w-30.

However, my car friend is telling me that I should stick with only 5w-40. His reasoning is that 0w on startup is very thin (watery like) and it will shred years off of my engine life. My car is at 80k, and he said that the older it is, the higher initial viscosity is needed.

So far, it has been about 50 miles since I put the GC in, and I love how it performs, but I don't want to hurt the car if the oil isn't designed for it. Should opt for 5w-40 oil in the future, or am I ok using GC 0w-30.

PS. I don't consider myself an aggressive driver, but I do a lot of stop-n-go driving. I also live in California, so the weather isn't too cold here.

Thanks!

-Ken
 
Your friend does not know what he is talking about.

5w is very thin. Watery like. Ow is just more so.

Ow will get up quicker to lubricate engine parts.

GC does not shread easily.

GC is a very heavy 30 weight.

Made of very good components.

It will not shred easily.

When a car develops a leak some people prefer to switch to a thicker oil so it will not leak as easily.

I prefer to fix the leak.

Clean the engine,once it is clean , it will be easier to find the leak.

Fix it. No need for heavier oil.
 
The M1 0W40 will be fine and no, the 0W part won't cause your engine to shred itself on you. It will do the opposite..it will allow the oil to flow faster within the engine on cold start-ups and that reduces engine wear. You live in Cali, so this isn't as important to you as it would be to say somebody from Chicago. Lastly, if it's good enough for a twin turbo Porsche engine, it's good enough for your little Audi. And it's easy to find, just go to any AutoZone to get it.
 
Thanks for the quick reply DeeAgeaux. I'll be able to sleep easier now lol. Feels like my car runs smoother and quieter with GC compared to M1 0w-40, so I'll stick with it.
 
Originally Posted By: movado
I decided to try out the GC 0w-30.

If it meets the specs, you can use it.

GC is a very thick 30-weight anyway.


Originally Posted By: movado
However, my car friend is telling me that I should stick with only 5w-40. His reasoning is that 0w on startup is very thin (watery like)

Originally Posted By: DeeAgeaux
5w is very thin. Watery like. Ow is just more so.

No and no.

It depends on temperature.

When they are cold, both will be rather thick. Nothing like water. When they are REALLY cold (way below freezing), 0w will flow better but they will still both be really thick. When they are hot, the W rating has nothing to do with how thick they are.

Keep in mind that each of these numbers actually represents a range of viscosities. At most temperatures, GC 0w-30 is actually THICKER than many 5w30s and even some 10w-30s.
 
Originally Posted By: movado
Thanks for the quick reply DeeAgeaux. I'll be able to sleep easier now lol. Feels like my car runs smoother and quieter with GC compared to M1 0w-40, so I'll stick with it.


You are probably not imagining this. My BMW is leaps and bounds quieter on GC instead of M1 0W40.
 
I've always wondered this though.

I wonder if some manufacturers spec a 5w or 10w for a reason over the newer 0w oils. Maybe some engine designs need slightly higher viscosities for cold start up cusion.

Just a thought. It does make sense. Obviously the clearances in an engine will be different when cold, than when fully warmed up. If the internal parts have a higher rate of expansion and start out as a looser fit, I think you'd want the cusion............Maybe I had too many glasses of wine last night.
 
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Originally Posted By: ryan2022
I've always wondered this though.

I wonder if some manufacturers spec a 5w or 10w for a reason over the newer 0w oils. Maybe some engine designs need slightly higher viscosities for cold start up cusion.

Just a thought. It does make sense. Obviously the clearances in an engine will be different when cold, than when fully warmed up. If the internal parts have a higher rate of expansion and start out as a looser fit, I think you'd want the cusion............Maybe I had too many glasses of wine last night.

Again: GC 0w-30 is THICKER at MOST TEMPERATURES than most 5w30s and some 10w-30s. If what you are saying is true, everyone should spec GC.
wink.gif


When the difference between the hot viscosity number (20, 30, 40, etc.) and the winter rating (0w, 5w, 10w) is big, that usually indicates a higher viscosity index. A higher viscosity index usually means higher volatility and lower shear resistance, all else equal (although GC is extremely shear stable). If a 5w is all most people need for the winter, that is all the manufacturer will spec. No reason to stretch things more than necessary.
 
Hay Man-You have it backwards. Automobile engine oil is graded from 0 at the thinnist oil to 40 and 50 at the high(thickest)level.
To raise EPA ratings many manufactures went to 0 weighted oils on the low (cold) start up end of the scale.
Many of these manufactures have since revised this recommendation due to high incidents of engine wear and higher than normal oil consumption being reported by owners.
Check it out.
 
there is no oil that is watery when at start up

Red Line 10w60 is 173@40c and 25.2@100c
Red Line 0w20 is 43@40c and 8.2@100c

How any oil can be "watery" at start up is beyond me
 
Originally Posted By: mrruffhouser
Hay Man-You have it backwards. Automobile engine oil is graded from 0 at the thinnist oil to 40 and 50 at the high(thickest)level.
To raise EPA ratings many manufactures went to 0 weighted oils on the low (cold) start up end of the scale.
Many of these manufactures have since revised this recommendation due to high incidents of engine wear and higher than normal oil consumption being reported by owners.
Check it out.

Hay Man -- You have it wrong. The W number is not a weight. It's just a winter rating.

Check it out.

wink.gif
 
Lgihter oils are recommended for modern engines because the newer engines are build with tighter clearances that require lower viscosity oils in order to maintin sufficient flow to all parts of the lube system. You will never go wrong following the recommendations in the Owner's Manual. As long you change your oil at the regular interval you shouldn't have any problem.

:)
 
Originally Posted By: mrruffhouser

To raise EPA ratings many manufactures went to 0 weighted oils on the low (cold) start up end of the scale.


Actually they when to a xW20 oil to raise the fleet fuel mileage to meet the CAFE regulation requirements for manufacturers.

0w, 5w, 10w, etc.is not weight but an somewhat arbitrary rating based on the oil low temperature flow and pumping characteristics - SAE J300 (1999) Motor Oil Grades- Low Temperature Specifications. I say somewhat arbitrary in that an oil that meets the 0w standard can be rated 5w or 10w because of the myth that "W" means weight and 95-99% of the folks that recommend/sale/change oil believe this myth. We'll all heard "I would not use a 0 weight oil in your car.".

SAE J300 oil pdf
 
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Originally Posted By: akw
You will never go wrong following the recommendations in the Owner's Manual.


Somehow I doubt this is true. I stayed with VW spec oils while I was under warranty in case I had to make a claim. As it turned out, my cam shaft/follower/fuel pump had to be replaced, and I was able to verify oil changes with the "proper" spec oil. Now that I'm out of warranty I use Rotella 5w-40, because I don't give a [censored] about VW's oil specs.
 
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Originally Posted By: d00df00d
How do you know the oil was the cause of your problems?


It wasn't. Some early 2.0T engines had a softer lobe (not hardened properly) for the high pressure fuel pump. Oil had nothing to do with the failure. It is a known and well documented issue on the early 2006 MY VW vehicles with the 2.0T FSI engine.
 
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